I just do not understand balancing a salt pool

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zea3 said:
How does the water look now?
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It's clear but I feel like it looks thick....if that makes any sense? Not sure how to describe it other than that way. But I still smell some chlorine. And of course just has a little bubbling where my fountains hit the water. But from what I've read that's caused from the algaecide? I have struggled with this pool since it was installed. Tbh I don't think it was ever right when it was started up and just got worse from there.
zea3 said:
How does the water look now?
Click to expand...
I wish I knew how to post videos here. I tried it said it was too large
 
If you have a high resolution camera on your phone try lowering the resolution to shoot video of the pool and then post it. By looking thick I assume you mean a little cloudy? What type of algaecide did you use and how long ago? Your pH test in your current kit should be fine. Could you test the pH and post it here?
 
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The test kit will be the best investment you make for your pool. It will allow you to test the water yourself and know what the pool needs. As you do this more and more, you'll be amazed at how easy the pool is to maintain. With a SWG, you'll really only need to add some muriatic acid every once in a while to lower the pH when it climbs. That's pretty much it. You won't need algaecides, clarifiers, or any other pool potions that the pool store is more than eager to sell you. All that money will stay in your pocket.

The key to the TFP method is monitoring and controlling the FC/CYA ratio. Get to know that really well. If you're having trouble now, there's a great chance that your CYA is very high which, in turn, makes the FC less effective at the normal levels you are used to. You either have to raise your FC to a higher level to compensate, or you have to do a partial drain and refill to dilute that CYA down to a workable level. Once this topic sinks in, you'll have smooth sailing. Just be aware that any hard chlorine (except cal hypo) has stabilizer (CYA) in it, so whenever you use it, you are also adding to the CYA level. That is the reason we recommend using only liquid chlorine or a SWG as your primary source of sanitation. They have no CYA or calcium in them so you won't be adding anything else to the pool that it doesn't need, only chlorine.
 
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I tried to do another video with it off HD and a 3 second video still too large. Hmmm. My pH looks ok. My chlorine is now orange. I added a bag of shock because the sheet said to add 2.5lbs of turbo shock. I thought maybe one would break the lock. Now it's orange 🥴 I feel so defeated. I should've left it alone I guess after all
 

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DeanP66 said:
The test kit will be the best investment you make for your pool. It will allow you to test the water yourself and know what the pool needs. As you do this more and more, you'll be amazed at how easy the pool is to maintain. With a SWG, you'll really only need to add some muriatic acid every once in a while to lower the pH when it climbs. That's pretty much it. You won't need algaecides, clarifiers, or any other pool potions that the pool store is more than eager to sell you. All that money will stay in your pocket.

The key to the TFP method is monitoring and controlling the FC/CYA ratio. Get to know that really well. If you're having trouble now, there's a great chance that your CYA is very high which, in turn, makes the FC less effective at the normal levels you are used to. You either have to raise your FC to a higher level to compensate, or you have to do a partial drain and refill to dilute that CYA down to a workable level. Once this topic sinks in, you'll have smooth sailing. Just be aware that any hard chlorine (except cal hypo) has stabilizer (CYA) in it, so whenever you use it, you are also adding to the CYA level. That is the reason we recommend using only liquid chlorine or a SWG as your primary source of sanitation. They have no CYA or calcium in them so you won't be adding anything else to the pool that it doesn't need, only chlorine.
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Cal hypo as in turbo shock? So technically I don't need shock at all if I were to use the superchlorinate feature on my swg?
 
No you don't, but realize that a SWG is best at maintaining your FC level. Even if you turn it all the way up to superchlorinate (100%), it still takes time for that FC to rise. Liquid chlorine is your friend here. It will raise your FC in under 30 minutes after you add it.

Not sure what Turbo shock is. Look at the label. What is the main ingredient? Cacium hypochlorite, or trichlor? Whatever it is, you will be adding either calcium or stabilizer (CYA) if you use it. If your levels are high to begin with, you don't want to make them worse.
 
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zea3 said:
If you have a high resolution camera on your phone try lowering the resolution to shoot video of the pool and then post it. By looking thick I assume you mean a little cloudy? What type of algaecide did you use and how long ago? Your pH test in your current kit should be fine. Could you test the pH and post it here?
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No it isn't cloudy at all. Just the ripples on the top look thick. Like they are in slow motion. Lol I can't explain and I can't figure out how to post a video yet.
mknauss said:
Do realize your other thread says you are going to get this pool resurfaced by the manufacturer. Be prepared that they have no clue on water chemistry and will spout requirements that are not possible to achieve (high TA with low pH) and very low FC levels that are not safe. You will have to make a decision on your path forward.
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Yes they are putting ecofinish on it. These are their chemistry requirements for my current pool which I feel I will never get. Haven't yet! I have struggled so much with the pH...well everything this year.
DeanP66 said:
No, you don't but realize that a SWG is best at maintaining your FC level. Even if you turn it all the way up to superchlorinate (100%), it still takes time for that FC to rise. Liquid chlorine is your friend here. It will raise your FC in under 30 minutes after you add it.

Not sure what Turbo shock is. Look at the label. What is the main ingredient? Cacium hypochlorite, or trichlor? Whatever it is, you will be adding either calcium or stabilizer (CYA) if you use it. If your levels are high to begin with, you don't want to make them worse.
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And I just did then. She said it would not raise calcium.
DeanP66 said:
No, you don't but realize that a SWG is best at maintaining your FC level. Even if you turn it all the way up to superchlorinate (100%), it still takes time for that FC to rise. Liquid chlorine is your friend here. It will raise your FC in under 30 minutes after you add it.

Not sure what Turbo shock is. Look at the label. What is the main ingredient? Cacium hypochlorite, or trichlor? Whatever it is, you will be adding either calcium or stabilizer (CYA) if you use it. If your levels are high to begin with, you don't want to make them worse.
Click to expand...

mknauss said:
Do realize your other thread says you are going to get this pool resurfaced by the manufacturer. Be prepared that they have no clue on water chemistry and will spout requirements that are not possible to achieve (high TA with low pH) and very low FC levels that are not safe. You will have to make a decision on your path forward.
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Yes with ecofinish. But these are their standards which differ from yours,my pool store ,etc. I'm so confused as to where I should he. Especially when they do the ecofinish.
 

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Theycallmesunny said:
Cal hypo as in turbo shock? So technically I don't need shock at all if I were to use the superchlorinate feature on my swg?
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You could use the superchlorinate feature on your salt cell, however you should know what it does and what are the drawbacks to using it. This feature basically simply makes your salt cell generate chlorine at 100% for 24 hours straight before it resumes its previous percentage. This still generates chlorine a bit slowly and it wears out your salt cell. The salt cell has a certain amount of hours it will last before it quits working. What I choose to do is set my chlorine level with chlorine and then use the salt cell to maintain that level. The folks here have already explained the need for an accurate test kit. They haven’t mentioned yet the pool math app. The pool math app is awesome. If you know what your test results are and you know how much water your pool contains, it will tell you exactly how much of each chemical to add to reach the value you need. For example if your PH is at 8.0 and the ideal level is at 6.8, the app will take into account both of these values along with your pool volume and your total alkalinity level and will tell you exactly how much muriatic acid to add. Once you get the hang of testing and then entering in the values in the app, it all becomes super easy.
 
If it is pool life turbo shock it is cal hypo. You are going to be fine. Your pH looks ok, so leave that alone. I would go buy some LC chlorine so you have it for before and after your party.

For your party, check again with that test kit, if chlorine looks orange again dont do anything. If pH looks the same dont do anything.

Order your test kit, and have fun this weekend. We can fix everything next week. We just dont want the pool going green for your party.
 
Orion7319 said:
and it wears out your salt cell. The salt cell has a certain amount of hours it will last before it quits working.
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A salt cell has about 9,000 hours of generating capacity. Going to boost or Superchlorinate for an extra 12 hours of running during a 24 hour period may use 0.2% of the cells capacity. Hardly enough to stress the cell or wear it out very much.

You paid for the chlorine in the cell. You might as well use it if you need it.

The only downside is it will take 24 hours to get into the pool whereas adding liquid chlorine raises your FC immediately.
 
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