I have no idea what I'm doing...

[Dirk]

Gene gave you that back in post #20. You might want to do a little research (google) to make sure that part fits your model timer. Or maybe Gene already did that for you, I wouldn't know...

 

[Chefwitchyherb]

You won't be using those two timers ever again. Period. All the pump scheduling is done with the controller that is mounted on the black pump. Those two timers ran a "dumb" filter pump, which no longer exists, and the IFCS, which no longer works. One more time:
- Leave the timer box alone
- Focus on the SLAM

You're introducing multiple issues, now across multiple threads, that is confusing not only all the people that are trying to help you, but yourself as well. A little tough love. If you continue to do so, you're going to find less and less folks weighing in to help you. They just won't be able to keep up.

Once you get your water clear (from the SLAM), we'll help you balance the chemistry. And THEN we can start in on some of the other things on your mind. How's that sound?

Well that was the initial thing. The chemistry. But then I thought it isn't the chemistry....I thought that there was something wrong with the actual pool equipment, there is, contributing to the cloudy water. And I figured if the pool equipment doesn't work, even if the chemistry is accurate, the pool will still stay cloudy.

So I did turn off the IFCS at the yellow timer. Just off. Done. Not using it. Ever again. I really think it's blowing dirt back into the pool. I made sure the power was on for the Hayward and I set three timers for the Hayward, according to our electrical companies schedule. It does have different RPMs which I will read up on and adjust as needed.

Ya know, the entire time I was SLAMing, the pump wasn't on 24/7... It was the IFCS running 24/7, and I thought it was the pump. The pump was running only a couple hours a day. So I'm pretty sure that's why I wasn't seeing a rapid improvement in water clarity.

 

[Dirk]

While you're SLAMing, use the controller mounted on the black pump to run your pump 24 hours a day. The higher the RPMs you use, the faster the water will clear. You don't have to run it full speed, but too slowly will not be as effective.

If you're performing the SLAM correctly, and maintaining your FC at SLAM level, then the chlorine is killing the algae. The dead algae will either fall to the floor, or float in the water, or both. The robot will take it off the bottom and sides. The pump will pull the rest into the filter. That's how you'll clear your pool.

Every time you let the FC drop below SLAM level, you'll extend the time it'll take to complete the SLAM.
Every time you let the filter get too dirty, you'll extend the time it'll take to complete the SLAM.
Every time you let the collector on the robot get too full, you'll extend the time it'll take to complete the SLAM.
Every time you let the pump stop, you'll extend the time it'll take to complete the SLAM.

 

[bertschb]

Ya know, the entire time I was SLAMing, the pump wasn't on 24/7... It was the IFCS running 24/7, and I thought it was the pump. The pump was running only a couple hours a day.

The IFCS won't work without a pump running so if the IFCS was running 24/7, you had a pump running 24/7.

 

[Newdude]

On Monday, I vacuumed that pool FOUR TIMES and it's STILL dirty!!!!!

Thats 4 times you watched the robot do all the work. It coulda been you with the pole and the hose the old skool way.

One problem at a time and each one will get the attention it deserves. We will get you through it.

 

[Dirk]

The IFCS won't work without a pump running so if the IFCS was running 24/7, you had a pump running 24/7.

True. But we think the IFCS might be an independent plumbing circuit that is not being filtered (Gene was working on figuring that out). So while it might have been helping a little with the chlorine distribution, there was no dead algae being pulled out of the water. Which is why the water wasn't clearing...

I know very little about IFCS, but if Chef's IFCS relies on the main drain to suck up the muck, then I think BOTH pumps have to running for the IFCS to be effective, no?? Without the filter pump running, all the IFCS is doing, even if it's working properly, is blowing muck around. Again, not sure about any of that, just spitballing. But if that's true, you can see why running an IFCS is not very energy efficient, especially compared to a robot.

But it doesn't matter. We're not using the IFCS anymore, we're running the filter pump 24/7, and concentrating only on the SLAM. Right?

 

[bertschb]

...we think the IFCS might be an independent plumbing circuit that is not being filtered...

I didn't know that was possible but that would explain a lot. And yes, SLAM is job #1 right now!!!!

 

[Chefwitchyherb]

While you're SLAMing, use the controller mounted on the black pump to run your pump 24 hours a day. The higher the RPMs you use, the faster the water will clear. You don't have to run it full speed, but too slowly will not be as effective.

If you're performing the SLAM correctly, and maintaining your FC at SLAM level, then the chlorine is killing the algae. The dead algae will either fall to the floor, or float in the water, or both. The robot will take it off the bottom and sides. The pump will pull the rest into the filter. That's how you'll clear your pool.

Every time you let the FC drop below SLAM level, you'll extend the time it'll take to complete the SLAM.
Every time you let the filter get too dirty, you'll extend the time it'll take to complete the SLAM.
Every time you let the collector on the robot get too full, you'll extend the time it'll take to complete the SLAM.
Every time you let the pump stop, you'll extend the time it'll take to complete the SLAM.

I can't tell you how helpful you have been!!!!

We do have solar on our house, so I'm going to reset the timers to increase the RPM during the day and decrease it at night, while I SLAM.

When the pool is clear, what's a "standard" RPM to set it at?

I also found a HASA dealer close by. They sell 14% chlorine in a returnable pack, which I really like, for $31.99/4 gallons.

 

[Chefwitchyherb]

True. But we think the IFCS might be an independent plumbing circuit that is not being filtered (Gene was working on figuring that out). So while it might have been helping a little with the chlorine distribution, there was no dead algae being pulled out of the water. Which is why the water wasn't clearing...

I know very little about IFCS, but if Chef's IFCS relies on the main drain to suck up the muck, then I think BOTH pumps have to running for the IFCS to be effective, no?? Without the filter pump running, all the IFCS is doing, even if it's working properly, is blowing muck around. Again, not sure about any of that, just spitballing. But if that's true, you can see why running an IFCS is not very energy efficient, especially compared to a robot.

But it doesn't matter. We're not using the IFCS anymore, we're running the filter pump 24/7, and concentrating only on the SLAM. Right?

Absolutely not running that thing anymore....like I said it is OFF at the circuit breaker. And that door is shut and locked so no one can mess with it!! I'm pretty confident with the pump on 24/7 and the SLAM happening, I will notice an improvement come tomorrow.

 

[ajw22]

When the pool is clear, what's a "standard" RPM to set it at?

During the day you need to run your pump at whatever RPMs work for your solar. Once the sun goes down the RPMs can be reduced to 1500 RPM or so. You don't have a SWG or heater that needs higher flow. The pump is running for skimming and filtering when there is no solar heat.

 

[Dirk]

Holy guacamole! Are you telling us (NOW!) that you have a solar heating system for the pool? Or is it a PV solar system for the house? Because if it's the former, then that changes about half of everything that was discussed. There are no solar plumbing pipes on the main filter circuit. Not standard ones, anyway. So the tan pump could be an independent solar heating plumbing circuit. Which would mean:
- you would use one of the timers,
- the tan pump has nothing to do with the IFCS,
- the RPM settings of the black pump would have nothing to do with the solar panels, so day/night settings in that regard wouldn't matter,
- the IFCS water is getting filtered,
and on and on...

It's even possible, I suppose, that the two systems are connected in some way under ground. Jeeze Louise.

At some point, in the very distant future, you'll need to do a thorough investigation of what every pump, pipe and valve are actually doing. But for now, stick to the plan, which does not include solar heating, or multiple pump settings and schedules. You don't want to heat a pool while you're trying to rid it of algae. And there is no reason to change the pump speed during a SLAM. Last chance:

- Leave the circuit breaker box alone.
- Don't run the tan pump.
- Pick one speed for the black pump and run that 24/7.
- Maintain FC at SLAM level until you can pass the "end-of-SLAM" criteria.
- Run the robot often and keep its collection chamber clean.
- Keep the filter clean.

 

[W.J.Christy]

Absolutely not running that thing anymore....like I said it is OFF at the circuit breaker. And that door is shut and locked so no one can mess with it!! I'm pretty confident with the pump on 24/7 and the SLAM happening, I will notice an improvement come tomorrow.

Been following this, hows the water look?

 

[Chefwitchyherb]

Holy guacamole! Are you telling us (NOW!) that you have a solar heating system for the pool? Or is it a PV solar system for the house? Because if it's the former, then that changes about half of everything that was discussed. There are no solar plumbing pipes on the main filter circuit. Not standard ones, anyway. So the tan pump could be an independent solar heating plumbing circuit. Which would mean:
- you would use one of the timers,
- the tan pump has nothing to do with the IFCS,
- the RPM settings of the black pump would have nothing to do with the solar panels, so day/night settings in that regard wouldn't matter,
- the IFCS water is getting filtered,
and on and on...

It's even possible, I suppose, that the two systems are connected in some way under ground. Jeeze Louise.

At some point, in the very distant future, you'll need to do a thorough investigation of what every pump, pipe and valve are actually doing. But for now, stick to the plan, which does not include solar heating, or multiple pump settings and schedules. You don't want to heat a pool while you're trying to rid it of algae. And there is no reason to change the pump speed during a SLAM. Last chance:

- Leave the circuit breaker box alone.
- Don't run the tan pump.
- Pick one speed for the black pump and run that 24/7.
- Maintain FC at SLAM level until you can pass the "end-of-SLAM" criteria.
- Run the robot often and keep its collection chamber clean.
- Keep the filter clean.

I have solar panels on the roof of my HOME

 

[Chefwitchyherb]

Been following this, hows the water look?

Not much of an improvement. Day 5 of SLAMing and maybe a 10% improvement. Same dirt in the same places. I've been running the Dolphin multiple times a day and the track have been coming off every other time

 

[Chefwitchyherb]

Holy guacamole! Are you telling us (NOW!) that you have a solar heating system for the pool? Or is it a PV solar system for the house? Because if it's the former, then that changes about half of everything that was discussed. There are no solar plumbing pipes on the main filter circuit. Not standard ones, anyway. So the tan pump could be an independent solar heating plumbing circuit. Which would mean:
- you would use one of the timers,
- the tan pump has nothing to do with the IFCS,
- the RPM settings of the black pump would have nothing to do with the solar panels, so day/night settings in that regard wouldn't matter,
- the IFCS water is getting filtered,
and on and on...

It's even possible, I suppose, that the two systems are connected in some way under ground. Jeeze Louise.

At some point, in the very distant future, you'll need to do a thorough investigation of what every pump, pipe and valve are actually doing. But for now, stick to the plan, which does not include solar heating, or multiple pump settings and schedules. You don't want to heat a pool while you're trying to rid it of algae. And there is no reason to change the pump speed during a SLAM. Last chance:

- Leave the circuit breaker box alone.
- Don't run the tan pump.
- Pick one speed for the black pump and run that 24/7.
- Maintain FC at SLAM level until you can pass the "end-of-SLAM" criteria.
- Run the robot often and keep its collection chamber clean.
- Keep the filter clean.

So here in the desert, with one electric company, cheap hours, currently, are from 9am-5pm. So I decided to run a higher RPM on the Hayward during the cheap hours. One, because the demand on the Hayward has to be high. If we end up with a high demand during on-peak hours or can be pricey. Two because the sun is shining on the solar panels on my roof.

I may seem ignorant about pool equipment, but if I had a solar heater, I'm certain I'd know.

 

[queenofchlorine]

Did you all figure out all the pipes and valves yet? FWIW, I was just reading a thread that had a picture of an IFCS. Seems to have a very similar set of "mystery pipes."

How to clean pump basket without blowing air through the system...

When my PB showed me how to clean out the Leaf Vac and pump baskets shown below, he didn't do anything other than remove the lids, clear out the debris, replace the lids and turn on the pump. When he did this, I don't remember seeing much air being pushed into the pool but when I do the same...

www.troublefreepool.com

Bah!! Don't talk about my mystery pipes!

This thread is nuts so it might already have been mentioned but...one of those mystery pipes could be an in-deck chlorinator. I noticed three baskets in the deck...skimmer, auto-leveler and chlorinator perhaps?

@Chefwitchyherb How's the pool looking?!