Hydrostatic pressure test on new in-ground pool construction not holding!

Hello from Magnolia Texas,
I'm a first time to be, in-ground pool owner.

The plumbers finished the plumbing yesterday and put pressure on the lines. I have no idea which ones, and are they supposed to pressure test all lines whether they are flow out only, or return from the drain, and skimmers?
Like I mentioned this is my first time having a pool built. Anyway they pressured the system, and the only PSI gauge is on top of the Jandy cartridge filter. They pressured it to 24 psi around 11Am yesterday, and by days end 10PM the gauge showed 14psi. I told the Project manager about it, and he said "we don't get concerned unless it drops to 5psi" ?? This morning I looked and it was at 7psi. I left a message for the PM to tell him the drop, and no reply as of this writing. The plumbers showed up this morning for what I thought was to address the issue, however they told me they were just here to set a main light? They told me there is no leak! But they re-pressured it to humor me. They pressure it to 20psi at 8AM, and it how reads 18psi at noon. Gunite is scheduled for tomorrow morning, and I still haven't heard back from the PM. The plumbers left right after pressurizing the system, without saying a word when they left.
One, I don't know what or how much of the system should be tested under pressure. The piping consists of two pumps(one for waterfall, and weeping wall). Plumbed in is the 4 cartridge filter, heat pump, UV filter, Ozone filter, and Fusion chlorinator. Plus it will have the Polaris 9450 Sport Robot cleaner.
Oh and two bubblers.

Most pipe going into the pool they have capped, but a couple are open, and the Channel drain just has black electoral tape around it's seem on top.

My concern is the gunite going in Monday!

I hope someone here can tell me if I should be a pain-in-the-caboose and tell them to not do the gunite till the system keeps pressure?

Thanks everyone,
I appreciate any help
 
Usually, everything underground is pressure tested because it is easier to do and any plumbing above ground is easier to determine a leak so it isn't necessary.

But I would have probably insisted they raise the pressure to at least 45 PSI (max a pump can produce). It is easier to determine leaks as well. Temperature variation will change the pressure by a few PSI so that is normal.
 
I also would not have the filter or any equipment attached while pressure testing. Making sure the pipes are leak-tight is the only concern. Leaky equipment can be figured out later.
 
Thank you mas985, and JoyfulNoise.

I appreciate your input. These pools are kinda expensive, and I didn't want something that could have been taken care of now become a warranty problem down the road.
I went with a natl. company who has been around for 70 some years. I'm trusting their warranty against leaks for the life of the pool(non transferrable). My trust factor is always on alert. They just used the gauge on top of the filter unit with all equipment in place to do the test, which I didn't think was a good test, but who am I to question their experts. One of their people did reply to me however just after this post, and told me that the system would lose pressure on this test since the pump is not on creating a constant pressure?? Again I don't understand his reply, and their way of testing the system for leaks, but again who am I?
Gunite goes in on Monday, and I guess I'm supposed to trust them. Flying on a wing and a prayer.
 
One of their people did reply to me however just after this post, and told me that the system would lose pressure on this test since the pump is not on creating a constant pressure??
Pressure will only be lost if there is a leak somewhere. But that assumes everything was sealed properly to perform the test.
 
Thanks everyone for your input.
When the plumbing guys came back yesterday to place the pool light in position(which they didn't do), they humored me, and pressured the system to 20psi. That was around 9AM, and this morning at 9AM the gauge on top of the filter unit shows 4psi.
We've had fairly steady temp. and humidity hear in Houston since they wrapped up the plumbing, so no radical drop either way. It's been in the 80's, and 90's with 80 to 90% humidity.
The only thing I have going for me is that I've got every concern, and their response's via email from the PM, Salesperson, and scheduler archived. I hope I don't have to talk to a lawyer down the road about a leak causing problems. There's a large concrete deck going all around this pool, and of course right over the 5 rows of pipe going to and from the pool. Plus our water here is very expensive, and just like a toilet that continues running unchecked, the loss of water adds up.
 
Personally speaking, I would not allow the work to continue until the source of the pressure drop is determined. My gut feeling is it’s somewhere in the equipment (filter, pumps, etc) no sealing well. I would still want to know that for sure. It’s winter and there’s no swimming that’s going to happen so even if the build schedule got delayed a week or two, that’s inconsequential compared to a long term fight with the builder. Believe me, when you hand over that last check, all the “good feelings & best friend” talk will evaporate and you’ll be fighting to get them to even answer your phone calls. This is the time when you have maximum leverage over them, once you lose that you’re behind the 8-ball.

Have you inspected the trenches where the lines are to look for wet spots?
 
JoyfulNoise,
Good advice....thanks!
I do think you're right about the equipment(there is so much of it!!)being the source of the pressure drop, but one never knows for sure.
Winter here is not usually an issue till January lol. Anyway these guys buried the piping even before they pressurized the system. I even joked with the plumbers that it it were me I would have waited till I was very confident there are no leaks before burying the lines, and they just laughed.
The pipes are a good foot down, and the soil here is always somewhat wet since the Houston area is a converted swamp, plus the soil where the pool is going in is heavy red clay(maybe they think that will self seal the joints). As to friends....I think that ship has already sailed, and this company that's been around nationally for 70 plus years has a scheduled payment due before each phase in order to continue with the build. So they got their money for the gunite going in Monday. I do have two last payments which will be at the plaster phase, and the last inspection phase. They have the lions share of the total $$ outlay unfortunately.
I went with this company because they've been around for so long, and national, instead of going to a local builder. Most of our local builders here have been in the news abandoning their customers, and changing their company names. Easy fix here for them. I am holding out hope that I haven't made a terrible mistake.
 
If air pressure is being used, the pressure loses about 1 psi for a 10 degree Fahrenheit drop in temperature or gains about 1 psi for a 10 degree Fahrenheit rise in temperature.

If water is being used, temperature has almost no effect.

In any case, the pressure is not holding, which means that something is leaking.

The plumbing pressure test should be done independently of the equipment.

I suggest redoing the test with only the plumbing. Pressurize to about 35 psi and allow to sit overnight. Any loss more than a few psi is a fail. The next phase should not proceed until the plumbing passes the test.
 

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