Huge amounts of acid required months after new plaster applied to pool

Bonitapool

Member
May 25, 2025
7
Soutwest Florida
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Hello everyone! I have read everything I can find on this forum and elsewhere (though this forum is the most helpful) about acid requirements for a newly plastered pool. Mine seems off the rails, so I'd like some opinions.

I have a 13,000 gallon in ground plaster pool with one waterfall from the spa into the pool, which is the main inflow from the filter. The pool was renovated, including new plaster and waterline tile by a reputable local company, finishing the job on 1-16-25. The plaster used was NPT Stonescapes Aquacool regular pebble. It was applied over a good solid existing plaster after they did some other things to prepare it like bond coat, etc. They did a 6 week acid startup, said that everything was balanced and handed it over to my pool maintenance guys. My guys started their weekly visits, and I had no reason to think anything was wrong. That was a mistake. After 3 weeks of this, with reports saying that the pH was 8, I noticed snow-like stuff all over the bottom of the pool. I skimmed some of it out and found out that it was calcium crystals. 1.5 gallons of calcium crystals. Turns out that the pH was not 8, but over 8. WAY OVER 8 and NEVER was brought down - by the pool company guy during startup or my water guy. Maybe I shouldn't blame them, because I don't think anyone would have expected this. Thank goodness that no one was swimming in the pool yet, because when I put my hand in the pool, my skin was slick like when you get ammonia on your skin. I can't imagine what the true pH was. I called the pool company project manager, who by this time, I had a reasonable relationship with, and he came right over. There was obviously scaling, and so we had to do an urgent low pH acid descaling, which luckily was successful cosmetically. If anything, it looks better because it took a little more of the plaster off the aggregate and it now looks just like the samples. After re-balancing the chemistry, I tested the water twice DAILY, and am still doing this.

We are now 5.5 months out from the original finish date of the plastering and when I check the pH daily at 1130, it has been anywhere from 8.0 to 8.5. I have added anywhere from 16 to 24 ounces of 31.45% muriatic acid daily at that time, and by mid afternoon the pH is 7.4 to 7.6. This repeats daily. EVERY DAY. The amount is calculated either by Poolmath app or the acid demand test in the Taylor kit. I'm holding the alkalinity at around 60 in an attempt to keep the pH from climbing any more than it is. CYA and Cl are fine. Believe it or not, CSI is right near where it needs to be, although obviously it bounces around the target up and down daily. I'm using a Taylor test kit.

So, at this point, the pool is useable and looks great, but the amount of acid I'm having to use is INSANE. Also, my Ca hardness has been climbing slowly with all this what I assume is calcium hydroxide being released into solution. The Ca hardness is now 575. I'm shocked that the CSI can be normal with this level of hardness. Oh yea, also, there is very little plaster dust weekly. Very little. I have thrown away my filter cartridge that went through this and replaced it with a new CC150. Pressures stay low.

I know that's a lot of info, but I wanted to try and give all the info I had. We've had the plaster rep who sells the NPT stonescapes out to the pool, and he and the pool company say just keep going and it'll cure eventually - although they admit they haven't seen anything like this before. So, I'm skeptical of their advice. Can someone please tell my what they think about this? Will my pool ever cure? Should I leave the Ca hardness high so less calcium comes out in the water (if I drop the hardness, I assume it'll pull MORE calcium out of the liner)? Is it doomed? HELP!
 
Sure. Test kit is Taylor k-2005.

Test from this morning:

Water temp 86
pH 8.0+, acid demand 2 drops to correct to pH 7.4. Pool is 13,000 gal, so thats 24 oz 31.45% muriatic acid. I couldn't use poolmath because the test kit won't give me a true pH, only an "over" 8.0
Alk 60 (but it will be 50 this afternoon after the acid, and back up to 60 tomorrow at 1130)
Ca Hardness 575 using the high concentration 10ml technique in the Taylor kit
Cl 3-6
CYA 50
CSI will be -0.20 after it corrects to pH 7.4 shortly, right now, it's probably 0.66

Also, I forgot to mention that it's a salt pool, and the salt is 3600. The generator is set at level 2 out of 5
 

Attachments

  • 20250525_122731.jpg
    20250525_122731.jpg
    661.3 KB · Views: 6
  • 20250525_122750.jpg
    20250525_122750.jpg
    626.6 KB · Views: 5
  • 20250525_122805.jpg
    20250525_122805.jpg
    664 KB · Views: 5
mknauss,

No, it just varies when I add the acid. When the pH is high at 1130, it tests to 60, and mid afternoon when I retest the water and the pH is 7.4 or 7.5, the TA tests 50, or maybe 55. I think it's just the acid knocking it down temporarily. Adding the acid does eventually keep it down and I add a little Bicarb to get back to 60-70

I haven't added additional water lately, but my tap water TA is 70, Ca is 50. I suppose it might bring up the TA if I added a bunch.
 
If your CYA is 50 and the TA is 60, it is chemically very difficult for the pH to rise above 8. And you should never need to add baking soda.

I would check the pH level you are looking at. Many people over state the pH when using the color match. A pH of 8 or above is purple tones.
 
With a TA of 50-60, your pH should be fairly stable around 7.8 to 8.0. I would leave your pH alone, until it is above 8.0 (purple hues), then only lower it to 7.8.

I would actually run your TA at 70 to match your input water, and accept pH of 7.8-8.0.

 
Thanks mknauss and PoolStored

I will seriously consider doing those things, if I can muster up the courage.

I had the same thought - that with the pH at the top of my scale, near purple, that I could be over reading it. In my mind at least, I kinda ruled that out when either 1) I would guess that the pH was 8.2 and use poolmath to calculate the acid dose. After adding the acid amount recommended, it would go to the exact predicted level that poolmath predicted (lets say 7.5). or 2) when I would use the acid demand test in the Taylor kit and use the amount of acid that the kit recommended - and again, hit the target of the recommendation.

So, I'm not convinced that I'm massively overestimating my pH upon testing.

I'm also worried about leaving it at whatever high pH it is at at 1130 and not treat it, because when I DO TREAT IT at 1130, it's back up to that high level at 1130 the next day. I'm afraid of where it might be if that 20oz of acid are not added. I guess I'm gun shy after the massive scaling/crystal precipitation event that I went through.

Let's assume as an exercise that I'm getting my testing correct, and my pool truly is needing all this acid because of the curing plaster. If that's the case, is there any explanation to this? Is the plaster faulty - or is that even possible? Is there anything else that could be going on.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
mknauss,

Am I ok with the Ca hardness where it is for now? I don't want to complicate things further if I don't have to, but if it keeps climbing, I think I'll have to drain some water - do you agree?

I will take both you guys advice for now and be more careful with the testing - use a white paper. After a couple days, I'll get back here and see what everyone thinks. Thank you so much for your help on this. I really appreciate it.
 
Your CH is high for your area -- so I would drain off some pool water each time you see a large rain storm coming. Getting it down near 400 or so would be better. But yes, you can leave it and it should not be an issue, if your TA is kept at 60 or so.

A canary in the coal mine is your SWCG. If it starts shedding large amounts of scale, then the CH is getting too high -- or -- the TA is high.