Howdy Howdy!

So, we've been fighting our pool all season now. We've put somewhere in the neighborhood of $500 worth of chemicals in the pool and its still green / opaque.

So far we have:

Shocked multiple times

changed sand in filter

put chlorine tablets in both chlorinator and skimmer basket

algicide

green to clean

floc

and its still green.

I've been watching videos about the BBB / TFP method and all roads on the internet seem to come back to this forum.

I've been using test strips but because I'm just not convinced they're very accurate, I have educated myself on using a Taylor test kit. This kit, however, was left by the previous owner and its probably not been used in 2+ years.

I had the thing balanced (using the test strips), then used floc. The water was opaque, almost white. Vacuumed, used the floc, vacuumed, started again, and now its back to green.

That was last week.

This morning I learned how to use the Taylor kit.

0 chlorine (free or otherwise)

7.2 pH

alk 140ppm

I kept seeing here and on youtube that you should test for CYA also. As best I can tell it is at 110, as it doesnt reach the scale on the test tube.

Everything I've been reading says I need to empty my pool at least 50% and start over. Its vinyl and I'm seeing that emptying the pool could be a big problem.

:(

Any help or direction yall to give would be great!

I've made a small donation to this site ($10) so I dont feel like a complete mooch for asking :)

Thanks!

Lee
 
Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

The one test that we can be pretty sure is accurate is the CYA test. The reagent for that test is very stable. So yes, it would be best to drain some water. Do Step 8 in Pool School - CYA to get a more accurate value.

I would order a complete refill set of reagents from Complete Refill Set Taylor K-2006

Can you fill out a signature? With that information we can provide more guidance. See Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

To track your pool water chemistry information and to calculate chemical additions consider getting the Pool Math app or use PoolMath.
 
Almost everyone on this site has been where you are, the main thing needed is patience. Follow the slam rules and everything will work out fine. IMO the bast thing to use to fight algae is liquid chlorine (bleach), forget the other stuff. keep the FC where it needs to be according to slam and keep the pump running and filtering out the dead algae. Not sure why you think there would be issues doing a partial drain and refill, the only issue I can think of would be a complete a drain if the water table is really high. Good Luck
 
You must be careful draining a vinyl liner pool. Never go below leaving one foot of water in the shallow end so the liner does not shift. If you have a very high water table that can still be an issue.

Another method is as follows:
You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
 
Almost everyone on this site has been where you are, the main thing needed is patience.

Thank you for the kind words of encouragement. This has been amazingly expensive and frustrating. However I think I'm on to the culprit -> CYA

Not sure why you think there would be issues doing a partial drain and refill, the only issue I can think of would be a complete a drain if the water table is really high. Good Luck

I have never, in my 51 years, ever fooled with keeping a pool. Its all voodoo witchcraft with its chemicals and environments and pumps and sands and whatnot. Only now that I've decided to take it on (rather than leaving it to my poor wife, who, in turn, has been leaving it to whatever Leslie's says) I have learned it may be accessible to lesser beings like myself.

The biggest reason I was apprehensive about doing a partial drain is because its a vinyl pool.

Secondly, this year the drain pipe busted the first time we turn on the pump at waste. That pipe runs under the house. I modified it to run out into the back yard. To drain, tho', means putting thousands of gallons into my back yard, then the neighbors, and so on.

I've committed today tho.

I bought a drain hose from Leslies and after 3 trips to Home Depot have created a line out to the sewer where it originally ran.

IMG_20180722_152805.jpg

$7 1-1/2" x 1-1/4" adapter (x2 because i need one on the sewer end

$3 1-1/4" x 2' pipe

$36 100' 1-1/2" waste pipe (they dont tell you that doesnt fit a 1-1/2" pipe and barely fits a 1-1/4" pipe)

And now we wait.

@mknauss - I've read that 6-8" will suffice, would that do or am I pushing it?
 
Are you saying you are only going to drain 6"-8" at a time? If so, it will take many drain refills. A lot.

With a liner pool with your high CYA, I would suggest studying the exchange method I described. No danger to your liner. It may use a bit more water but is safer.
 
OK.. That is up to you. I do not know about your ground water levels. So just understand the risks.
 
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