Howdy from Phoenix, AZ

Did you get the CYA added? What number did you target for CYA?

How does the water look?

What are your Cl numbers this AM?
 
Without the CYA dissolved the Cl will drop off quick in our sun and heat. Knead the sock of CYA frequently to dissolve itquicker. And test the Cl several times during the day - keep it above the minimum for your CYA of 30.
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

How does the water look? I'm pretty sure you need to SLAM, based on the greenish staining on the plaster. If that's so, be sure to familiarize yourself with the SLAM procedure.
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

If you have any questions or are unsure of anything, just ask. Someone will jump in and point you in the correct direction.
 
I'd suggest bumping the Cl up to 10 tonight and do an OCLT. When it's almost dark, with pump running add Cl to target 10, test Cl about 15-20 minutes later. Leave pump running all night. Test again in AM before any sun hits the pool. The difference in Cl readings will provide an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. This will help determine if a SLAM is in order.

Once we see if a SLAM is needed or not, we can work toward balancing your chemicals and addressing the staining.
 
Gene - sounds good. However, question: will doing a OCLT tonight give us an accurate reading, since the CYA won't have finished dissolving by then? I'm thinking that if we do an OCLT from tonight to tomorrow morning, it'll give inflated results as the CYA won't be fully dissolved.

--

Unless that's the point? To see how well the chlorine survives without the CYA?
 
Gene - sounds good. However, question: will doing a OCLT tonight give us an accurate reading, since the CYA won't have finished dissolving by then? I'm thinking that if we do an OCLT from tonight to tomorrow morning, it'll give inflated results as the CYA won't be fully dissolved.

--

Unless that's the point? To see how well the chlorine survives without the CYA?


The CYA level won't affect your FC reading, and that's the reason to do the Chlorine loss test over night, as the sun isn't hitting the chlorine, so again the CYA level is not relevant for the OCLT.
 
Ok, quick update on the balancing after adding bleach and the cya today:
PH: 7.3
FC: 3.5
CC: 0.5
Total chlorine (is this what people mean by Cl? seems like it but i don't want to take anything for granted.): 4
CH: 300
TA: 120
CYA: 20 (understand this won't be accurate for a few days, just wanted to see where we were at compared to last night's reading of 0)

Going to bring the CL level up to 10 tonight and do the OCLT to see where chlorine is tomorrow morning.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Don't know about others, but what I mean by Cl is chlorine/bleach and would equate to FC.

No need to report TC - as most of us are looking for FC and CC (and we can add the 2 together to get TC :stirpot: ).

After you add tonight, wait 15-20 minutes, test FC and CC - and write it down. Test both again in the AM before sun hits pool. Let us know the results and we can help from there.
 
That's great! Now to figure out what those strains are. Hopefully one of the stain experts will be along soon.
 
PTB! You are ready to start on those stains! Now get your "tools" ready:

-one chlorine puck

-one sock (plain white sock like you wear)
-several vit c tablets (crushed up)

Here we go-put the chlorine puck on one of the stains for about 3 mins. What happens? If nothing leave it for a couple more. Still nothing? If so move onto the next test.

-put the crushed up vit C into the sock, put the sock on the one of the stains for a few mins. What happens? You can also rub a whole one on one of the stains.

Now tell us what happened each time. We will go from there.

Kim:cat:
 
Greeting, passthebandaids.
Forgive me if i missed it, but how long had the pool sat that way before it came into your possession?

You may have a combo of organic and metal stains that are gonna be stubborn if scale is also in the mix.

Normally, your stains should have reacted to the chlorine puck or the vit C, but sometimes if there's some scale involved, it can take longer to get a reaction as the scale combines with the metal (eg and makes iron scale, for example).

In cases like those, its worth testing with dry acid (eg ph down) if you can get a reaction. If an acid test, so to speak, cleans it up, there is a tool you can buy to try an "acid wash" of sorts : Amazon.com: Purity Pool UAW Underwater Acid Wash Set: Patio, Lawn Garden

In general, with really old organic stains, sometimes it will take chlorine, sun and time to remove.
So even though you've swapped out the water, in that case, I'd likely keep the FC right around slam level for a few days or weeks even to see if it lightens. You can still swim at just up to slam level, and since you're not losing FC to active organics, its not a huge outlay in cash.

The reason we usually want people to make the determination whether a stain is organic or metal is because slamming can sometime oxidize meals and tint your water. But in this case, given the sense that at least some of it appears to be organic, I think riding elevated FC levels would likely be in order. If it tints, then you can use some sequestrant later to put any metal back back into solution.

You may need to do both these things in tandem, eg. Fist run higher FC for a week, note changes, then try the underwater acid wash...or vice versa.

Another option is to try Jacks Stain ID kit and then proceed with whatever makes the stain react...slightly more expensive approach, but if the stain kit works then you know there is a specific stain remover to purchase that will work.

Here's a link: Jack's Magic Stain ID Kit offered by Pool Geek

Hope that gves you some avenues to try.

If it were pure meals and iron in particular, an AA treatment might be worthwhile, but I'd hate to see you go to that trouble and have suboptimal effect. The vitamin c tells you how well the AA treatment might work and your results suggest tat it alone would not.
 
Hi Swampwoman, thanks for all the info! The pool was sitting for several months untended - October or November I think. The water itself was full of algae so we were guessing it was organic staining. However, when we first tested our calcium hardness the test numbers came back in the thousands, so scaling may very well be playing a part. Now that the pool has been drained we've been keeping the FC at slam level since Sunday and I think it's slowly working. Here's a photo of the pool on Saturday right after we finished refilling the water



And here it is this morning. The stains look slightly lighter and the water is cloudy - I'm taking that as a good sign. The staining is actually a bit more pronounced in person than in the image below, but you can definitely see a difference.



Thanks for the info about the acid wash. We're going to run slam FC levels for a few more days to see if it continues to improve, and if not, we'll look into the acid test.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.