How would you repair this cracked fitting?

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H

heppm01

0
Jun 15, 2018
9
Highland, MI
I got a little overzealous while tightening the slip nut on the salt cell and it ended up cracking all the way around and is now leaking substantially. I have a new Hayward union due to arrive today.

It is extremely cramped down there, not just for this repair but also for any sort of maintenance. The cell nuts are at most 1/2" off the concrete and difficult to get to. I am willing to try to make a repair with the existing configuration but am open to replumbing everything between the heater (on the left) and the exit point from the shed (bottom right) to make things more convenient.

I'm looking for some feedback on 1) the best place to make a cut to reconstruct the piping after the salt cell and/or 2) a better overall layout that includes moving the cell elsewhere.

Thanks!

Pipe2.jpg

Pipe1.jpg
 
My perspective might be off just looking at the photos, but to me it looks like the line in question exits the heater, goes down, then along the ground until it turns to exit the shed.

If that's correct, and your necessary wiring would allow it, how about coming out of the heater and going towards the back wall. Then however vertical you need to cross over your valves, and in that space you can put the SWG. finally, 90 degree back down to the original exit location.
 
If you are looking for the cheapest way, I would cut the pipe inside the area circled in green, then the union collar can be slipped off and a new collar slipped on. Then you can use a coupling to reconnect the original piping back together.

Another option would be to cut in the same area or outside the shed wall and replace with new piping and union connection to the SWG.

If it were me, I would use the first suggestion.

Pipe2a.jpg
 
You might consider going up over the top of the valves and then back down to exit the shed. Maybe stay toward the wall of the shed. Additionally, reverse the position of the SWG and the flow switch. The flow switch needs more of a straight run before the water enters it. That configuration would also provide easier access to the cell.
 
These are all good suggestions.

It did not occur to me that if I cut the pvc just prior to exiting the shed that I could slide the old union nut off and new one on. I was thinking I'd need to reconstruct the elbows up to the union. That said, I'm not sure if the nut will be able to slide past the 90" fitting - I'll give it a shot next time I'm out there.

Your suggestions also reminded me that the pipe exiting the heater it not glued in place so I should be able make a cut somewhere after the cell, remove the whole assembly and replace it swung up and back (above the valves) with minimal rework. I'm leaning in this direction and since I need to cut the downstream PVC either way I'll see how it looks.
 
heppm01 said:
I got a little overzealous while tightening the slip nut on the salt cell and it ended up cracking all the way around and is now leaking substantially. I have a new Hayward union due to arrive today.

It is extremely cramped down there, not just for this repair but also for any sort of maintenance. The cell nuts are at most 1/2" off the concrete and difficult to get to. I am willing to try to make a repair with the existing configuration but am open to replumbing everything between the heater (on the left) and the exit point from the shed (bottom right) to make things more convenient.

I'm looking for some feedback on 1) the best place to make a cut to reconstruct the piping after the salt cell and/or 2) a better overall layout that includes moving the cell elsewhere.

Thanks!

View attachment 490731

View attachment 490732
Click to expand...
Be aware that the 90 that is glued into the Hayward union is a street 90, not a regular one. One of those, a coupler and a short piece of 2" pipe will make the repair. Just cut the pipe about 6" off the wall and replumb. Not going to be easy with as tight as that installation is.
 
heppm01 said:
Fantastic - I had no idea such a thing exists! The one you link is actually an 1 1/2" and not 2", but I've been able to find the size I need. I'd still like to redo the routing some day but am willing to kick that can down the road for a while...
Click to expand...
Since the fitting on a Hayward SWG is proprietary, you may find that a split-nut doesn't fit. While they look similar, Hayward fits Hayward, Pentair, Pentair, Jandy, Jandy. Split nuts are usually used for portable spa heaters and the old metal heat sinks that used to be needed on a pool heater.
 

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