How to Test SWG

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xtrsports

xtrsports

0
Jun 8, 2013
45
Cape Cod, MA
I'm at the start of season 3 for my T-Cell 15 and it doesn't "seem" to be generating chlorine. I switched to tabs and bleach to get the right levels in place. Removed the tabs and FC began a slow decline from 8 to 0.

Background:
I've got my salt levels at 3200ppm which is between 2700-3400 recommended. I could go higher 200ppm higher but haven't had to in the past to maintain chlorine.
Using a Taylor kit my other levels are in range
  • CYA 70
  • TA 70
  • PH 7.6
  • CH a bit low @ 250
  • I've got the FC levels to 4 using tabs in the strainers
  • Haven't added any borates yet.
Water looks perfect

Overnight test I'm losing little if any FC (weather is still somewhat cold in MA). SWG is set to 70% (10% more than normal) and just bumped up run-time to 9 hours/day. Using Goldline SWG and not getting any error messages.

In the past I've tried to test the water coming from the returns by taking it out of the vac hose but I suspect that the SWG doesn't generate at a level that would show up in the tests as it is generally the same as the pool. Any other way to test the unit? I haven't cleaned it using muriatic acid & water solution per the manual but did so at the end of the year last year after closing down and didn't do it again before opening up. I try not to do this much as I get nervous that the acid isn't good for the plates.

As always, thanks in advance for any suggestions!!
 
x,

Assuming you have passed the OCLT, then do another one, but this time with the SWCG on at 100%... If your cell is working, it will increase your FC overnight. This will allow you to see how much chlorine your cell is producing per hour..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
x,

Assuming you have passed the OCLT, then do another one, but this time with the SWCG on at 100%... If your cell is working, it will increase your FC overnight. This will allow you to see how much chlorine your cell is producing per hour..

Thanks,

Jim R
Click to expand...
Yes. I've done the overnight loss test and it isn't going down. I've also run it at 100%, boost mode overnight and it hasn't gone up. Trying to determine if there is a way to test the unit or the cell to determine which might be at fault.
 
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

tftestkits.net

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test​


tftestkits.net
Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

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xtrsports said:
Temp is still at around 62 degrees f
Click to expand...
I have sw rev1.59 and from my own observation, the chlorine production is scaled to 20% if the temp dropped to 63°F and below. And at 50°F and below chlorine production is halted. But then again, this is just me. To verify the min temp threshold on revision 1.50 and later, set the %output to 100% and then pull the diagnostics at say...37 mins later! At anytime the Amps and instant salinity are zero, chlorine production is halted.
 
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Here are the diagnostic codes... in order and I've got no idea what half of them mean...
3200, 85, 31.3, 0.00, 10p, -0, AL - 5, r 1.40
Note that I took the readings while I was warming up the spa so temp is reading high and 10p is what I have the spa set to for chlorination.
 
Last edited:
JamesW said:
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

tftestkits.net

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test​


tftestkits.net
Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

Become a TFP Supporter - Trouble Free Pool
Click to expand...
Thanks James. I'm using the goldline system itself to measure the salt in the pool but the K-1766 test comes back slightly higher at 3400ppm. I'm not sure where to find the serial number of either but have included a few screen shots. I'm a little concerned as the sticker on the cell says 5A max and my understanding is that when T-cell 15 is selected that the amperage range is up to 8A?
1620913515825.png
 

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Last edited:
Actually, just realized that when set to AL-0 my system no longer recognizes the aquarite as being installed. Need to switch it back.
xtrsports said:
Thanks James. I'm using the goldline system itself to measure the salt in the pool but the K-1766 test comes back slightly higher at 3400ppm. I'm not sure where to find the serial number of either but have included a few screen shots. I'm a little concerned as the sticker on the cell says 5A max and my understanding is that when T-cell 15 is selected that the amperage range is up to 8A?
View attachment 332599
Click to expand...
 
Ok, AL-5 is for Jandy control.

The cell is about 7 years old and it might be underperforming.

Check the salinity with a K-1766 salt test kit and compare it to the instant salinity reading from the box.
 
JamesW said:
Ok, AL-5 is for Jandy control.

The cell is about 7 years old and it might be underperforming.

Check the salinity with a K-1766 salt test kit and compare it to the instant salinity reading from the box.
Click to expand...
Wow, you're right. I would have bet $500 that i had just purchased it two years ago but checked my records and sure enough, 2014... Dang, time moves fast. I tested with K1766 and it shows 3400ppm vs 3200ppm. I'm going to set it at 100% tonight as @C0d3Sp4c3 suggested and have it run over night. One observation is that there is also a temp difference between what I was seeing on the Jandy controller and what the Goldline controler was reading. I reported 64 from the jandy but the goldline controler was only at 61, so, per the prior post from @C0d3Sp4c3, output might have been reduced. Warm weather today and yesterday has the goldline reading the temp at 65 and amps at 5.1 so am hoping for a better test tonight. Keeping fingers crossed that I don't need another t-cell but guess 7 years is a decent run.
 
xtrsports said:
I would have bet $500 that i had just purchased it two years ago but checked my records and sure enough, 2014...
Click to expand...
Will that be cash or check? :)

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Note: Output is scaled back to 20% of desired output setting at 60°F and output stops at 50°F.
 
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To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity in each polarity reading by the actual salinity reading.

For example 3,200/3,400 = 94%, which is OK.

Anything over 75% is OK.

The performance percentage in each polarity should be within about +/- 5%.

So, the other polarity should be anywhere from 99% to 89%.
 

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