How to test if your Flow Switch is bad

[GreenTerrorPool]

WE have had a ton of rain here in Florida. So I have been battling with salt water levels. But now i think i got it but My flow switch does not seem to be working now. When my pump shuts off, it still says I am generating Chlorine.
I dont think my flow switch is working but is there a way to test it.

thanks guys
GTP

 

[Jimrahbe]

GTP,

I would just unplug the flow switch where it plugs into the controller... If the flow switch is stuck closed, when you unplug the wire inside the controller, the producing-chlorine light should go off. If the light does not go off, then the problem should be inside the controller.

I assume you already know, but when the pump is off the power to the SWCG controller should be removed.. This is pretty simple with a single speed pump because you run them both off the same timer.. A little harder with a VS pump.. The SWCG controller should have its own timer synced to the operation of the pump.

Although it is rare, cells can explode when allowed to generate chlorine when the pump is off... The flow switch is a Secondary safety device.. removing the power to the controller when the pump is off is the Primary safety device.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[GreenTerrorPool]

I am pretty sure my GC messed up the install with the SWG. But he is long gone. No Flow Line REd indicator light
See some history on my install here.

Moving forward. How do I test if a flow switch is bad. Any videos on how to change one out as i think i need to start here.

thanks for the help

 

[Jimrahbe]

GTP,

See the first sentence in my original post... When you unplugged it what happened???

Jim R.

 

[GreenTerrorPool]

when i unplug it , it goes to a REd light

 

[GreenTerrorPool]

also when pump is off, and the flow switch is plugged in, it is pulling amps. As soon as I unplug it the light goes red and amps goes to 0

 

[Meadow]

when i unplug it , it goes to a REd light

also when pump is off, and the flow switch is plugged in, it is pulling amps. As soon as I unplug it the light goes red and amps goes to 0

Green, the above mentioned status indicates that your flow switch is stuck in close position or the wire is shorted and/or the wire connections to the RJ11 modular phone connector is shorting out.
You can test the continuity of the flow switch using a Voltmeter or Ohmmeter. Continuity is open if there is no flow. Alternatively, continuity is close if sufficient water flow is detected.

If you don't have access to a VOM, then perhaps the below might help. You can use the two wire tel cord if available. Red and Green tied together means water is flowing. Untied, means no flow. From here, you should be able to figure out what is causing the problem. Hope this helps!



And please do yourself a favor, wire the SWCG onto a dedicated timer similar to this.

 

[Jimrahbe]

GTP

As Meadow points out, the fact that the red no flow light comes on when the flow switch is unplugged means that either the flow switch is bad or the wiring is shorted..

I would just replace the Flow switch.. It should just screw into you plumbing...

See this link... Amazon.com : Flow Switch Assembly without Tee Replacement Kit for Hayward Salt Chlorine Generators : Garden Outdoor

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[GreenTerrorPool]

so i took out the old flow switch and looked at it. It did have some rusting on it and some tiny rust specs which i took off. Did the ol blow on it real hard and boom, it now works. Weird

If anyone helping out here is a light expert, please see this thread as i have another issue:
2 Underwater LED Lights and Lighting

Have I mentioned this forum rocks. Such good people and great help!