How to read my new Taylor k-2006

[zonkakiick]

Hello to all. I'm a new pool owner and just got my first test kit, the Taylor k-2006. Here's my first question (of what I'm sure will be many While trying to test Calcium Hardness, the instructions say to add drops until it changes red to blue - well, mine spent several drops in a purple no man's land. Not sure if when to consider it blue, or is it just not red any more (ie, am I stopping when it is a purplish blue). All the other tests have been pretty clear and easy to use.
The kit is kind of fun to use - it brings back fond memories of my dad checking the water when I was a kid back in the late 70s.
Thanks for all the great advice I've already found on this forum!

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

You have a fading endpoint for the CH test. I would suggest you dilute your pool water 1:1 with distilled water (must be distilled), redo the test with that water, and then double the result.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

 

[zonkakiick]

Will do - and thanks for the quick reply Will I have to do that each time I test or is it something to do with the current situation in my pool?
Thanks, again

 

[mknauss]

Your fill water comes from the Colorado River. It has iron in it. Not a lot, but some. That with elevated CH levels (above 450 ppm) you get the case where dilution helps the test. So from now on I would suggest following that protocol when testing CH. That is what I do.

You also can add 5 or so drops of R0012 to the sample before adding the R0010 and R0011L. Count those 5 drops in your total drop count for the CH level.

 

[zonkakiick]

Great - thanks. Here's another basic one. When checking Alkalinity I'm looking for a green to red turn. Is it possible it's a little pinkish before full blown red? If so, does the drop that turns it a bit pink where you stop or does it need to be pretty red?

 

[generessler]

@mknauss is the expert, but the advice I've read here is to count drops until one does not cause any further color change, then subtract that last drop. The exception is the salt test (if you have a SWCG). For that one, it's first drop that causes a change. It's also good to count the first drop that makes the DPD test clear (not add an extra drop) if you want to follow up with the combined chlorine test. In that case, any extra drop will count in the CC result.