I have an 18' above ground pool with vinyl liner, what is the best way to pour in the liquid chlorine? I see for in ground pools, it is mentioned to poor in the deep end but I don't have a deep end. Also, a pool installer told me never to use bleach, it will dry out the liner, which will give him some work in the long run(lol), is there any truth to this?
How to pour liquid chlorine in above ground pool?
- Thread starter johnny_h55
- Start date
Just pour it in front of a return while the pump is running that will be more than sufficient to mix it. It will not dry or fade the liner, liquid chlorine is actually less caustic than the powdered shock that many use because it dilutes instantly in water.
Did YOU use the "b word", or did he? Either way, assure him that you would NEVER do anything like add bleach to a pool - you would only use liquid chlorine, or liquid shock, or sodium hypochlorite. (then make sure you turn away before rolling your eyes) 
Whatever name of whatever product you use, you don't want it to pool or concentrate in a given spot. Pour it very slowly in front of a return with the pump running. If in doubt, immediately grab your brush to provide a little extra mixing.
Whatever name of whatever product you use, you don't want it to pool or concentrate in a given spot. Pour it very slowly in front of a return with the pump running. If in doubt, immediately grab your brush to provide a little extra mixing.
Funny I did not even notice the change from the word chlorine to bleach, I guess my brain does not even register the difference any more, kind of like I imagine those who are bilingual must process different langues at times.
I had some contractors in my house last summer. One of them told another that I "only used bleach in the pool". (I haven't been in the habit of avoiding the "b word" for very long - I get you with that not registering)
The second guy cornered me in my garage to explain that he's a former pool care guy and a pool expert, and he had a very important warning for me about using bleach in pool. I was still new to it at that point, but by the time I had used 5-10 terms he'd never heard of, and showed him my TF100, he got really quiet. lol
The second guy cornered me in my garage to explain that he's a former pool care guy and a pool expert, and he had a very important warning for me about using bleach in pool. I was still new to it at that point, but by the time I had used 5-10 terms he'd never heard of, and showed him my TF100, he got really quiet. lol
Ok and how long after adding the chlorine should it register on the test? I added Cal Hypo shock the other day and a hour after it still didn't register chlorine in the pool. I think it was at zero before adding the shock.
That depends on the circulation in your pool. Every pool is different in that regard. You may have tested water that hadn't been mixed well enough to have the chlorine in it.
OR, you have low CYA and it was already burning off, AND/OR, you have organics AND/OR ammonia attacking the chlorine so it was gone by the time you tested.
No matter which "and/or" is likely, we don't recommend relying on strips or OTO for testing. Have you considered getting a recommended kit?
OR, you have low CYA and it was already burning off, AND/OR, you have organics AND/OR ammonia attacking the chlorine so it was gone by the time you tested.
No matter which "and/or" is likely, we don't recommend relying on strips or OTO for testing. Have you considered getting a recommended kit?
I have the TF-100 but I don't do it often as this is my parents pool and I am only at their place every second weekend. I am trying to get their water clear but everytime I get there and do a chlorine test, it is almost zero. So I add chlorine and the pool goes cloudy and their like what did you do, the water was almost clear before you touched it. I am thinking when I add the chlorine it kills organics and this clouds the water. I tried to tell them to run the tests and keep chlorinating but they are hard to convince. Since I am only there for a day at a time is there anything I can do that could help bring the pool back to a sparkling oasis.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,765
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Install a SWCG. You would have to SLAM to get rid of the current algae and adjust the CYA. They might have to add acid though ----- and dry acid is not an option.
Take care
Take care
And if the water is cloudy can it still be safe to swim in? How can you tell is the water is safe for swimmers?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,765
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
A pool is safe to swim in with FC up to shock level for your CYA; you can see the bottom of the deep end; and the pH when tested with FC under 10 ppm is between 7.2 and 7.8.
If the pool is cloudy due to algae, a SLAM should be in progress.
Take care.
It probably clouded due to the cal-hypo, but without test results we are just guessing.
Cal hypo can cause this, for which reasons exactly(curious to find out)? I know the water wasn't crystal clear before I poured it in but I could see the bottom of the pool but it was blurry. I use the aqua check to check for chlorine but will use OTO tonight. I used the fas dpd as well in the past, the problem is I dont use it often enough so I never remember how to perform the test. Is there a post that has instructions on how to perform all the tests included in the TF-100? I usually google every test I need to perform.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,765
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So i was over at their place yesterday and the water was still the same as what it was on Saturday, still blurry. I did oto tes and it showed no chlorine so i added 10.8% liquid chlorine to bring it to shock level. Performed the following tests aftrt adding chlorine:
FC: 14
CC:1.5
PH: 7.2
CH: 200ppm
CYA: 35
4.5 hours after when i left water was still blurry. I put the automatic vacuum cleaner in the pool to pick up some of the deposits on the side of the pool. I noticed as the vacuum was moving around, some white foam appeared on top of the water as the water was being agitated, not sure why that is.
FC: 14
CC:1.5
PH: 7.2
CH: 200ppm
CYA: 35
4.5 hours after when i left water was still blurry. I put the automatic vacuum cleaner in the pool to pick up some of the deposits on the side of the pool. I noticed as the vacuum was moving around, some white foam appeared on top of the water as the water was being agitated, not sure why that is.
Did Mom or Dad put any algaecide in the pool while you weren't around? That can foam.
Maddie
Maddie
Did Mom or Dad put any algaecide in the pool while you weren't around? That can foam.
Maddie
If they did, it was a while ago, probably end of May. Would it still foam today?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,765
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I want to check -- are you using a FAS-DPD test kit to measure FC? Your signature shows strips and an OTO kit. Neither can be used to successfully SLAM.
SLAM is a process. Takes days to weeks, depending on severity and how closely the process is followed.
SLAM is a process. Takes days to weeks, depending on severity and how closely the process is followed.
So the results I posted above are with the FAS-DPD test from the TF-100. Since I live far away from my folks and they find that the fas-dpd test is too complicated for them I ask them to give me the test strip result everyday so the pool don't end up without chlorine as I have seen it run dry(no chlorine) in the past. When I go there I do the FAS-DPD test.
Would it just be easier to drain and refill? If so, how much water do you remove from the pool so it doesn't damage anything?