I can do this just to check to see if I get any level of CC.I would still check for CC levels because bromine systems do build up combined oxidizer levels that will test as CC (CB) and not FC (FB).
I can do this just to check to see if I get any level of CC.I would still check for CC levels because bromine systems do build up combined oxidizer levels that will test as CC (CB) and not FC (FB).
Bottom line in terms of your advice seems to be...... convert it to a Cl pool in order to avoid complications and problems that come with bromine. I'm going to push for that, especially since the bromine feeder seems to be malfunctioning. Will push for a drain and refill and then start using liquid Cl. If I can get them to do the refill, is a power wash / acid wash necessary.... or just drain, fill, adjust and sanitize? What stabilizer level should I shoot for in this indoor pool..... 30? Any other issues you can alert me to in terms of converting this bromine pool to a (liquid) chlorine pool? I'm assuming once we convert, things should remain very stable most of the time, as I won't be battling sun, wind, rain, dirt, dust, etc. like you do in an outdoor pool. Seems like the biggest drawback is that someone has to go put chlorine in the pool daily, but.... it has to be tested twice daily anyway (per regs) so that doesn't seem like a major inconvenience.Honestly, this indoor pool is a royal PITA in terms of chemical maintenance. Anyone responsible for its upkeep is, at best, just guessing that it is ok. It’s all downside in my opinion because someone is going to complain and cause a fuss at some point and the person holding the keys will be the one that gets the blame. Just not worth the hassle.
The only thing I can say is that the indoor pool doesn't seem to get much use. Not sure why, but I rarely see anyone in it. It looks inviting... it's clear, maintained at about 85 degrees, and is properly balanced and sanitized (based on my tests). I guess there's just not that much interest (unless the grandkids are visiting).That pool is basically like a giant communal hot tub so it requires a lot of attention to detail to keep it sanitary.
Is this a pump that will continuously feed liquid chlorine into the pool at a set rate? What about using MPS to oxidize contaminants?I would also add an automated stenner pump for liquid chlorine and consider a supplemental UV oxidation system since you want avoid using high levels of chlorine when dealing with CCs.
UV is the way to go for an indoor pool.What about using MPS to oxidize contaminants?
Figure out if it’s calcium dust (from the plaster) or DE. If the filter isn’t DE, then it would seem to point away from DE.I have a different issue I need to address with this pool and get some guidance. Hope it is okay to continue on this thread. It is what I found when I was doing a demo of an automatic cleaner in the indoor pool and wondering if this could be serious. I am posting a short video and a photo. The video shows what is billowing up as the cleaner runs across the floors and walls of the pool. The photo shows what has accumulated in the cleaner filter after about 15 minutes of running in the pool. It is caked with what I believe is diatomaceous earth. The pool looks clear, but this stuff seems to be leaking into the pool and settling on the floor and walls. What is the probable cause and how serious is this issue? I assume it is some malfunction with the equipment (filter) because I don't think this stuff is supposed to be getting in the pool, right? Is this dangerous for swimmers? Need advice on what to do.... please.
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It is a DE filter.What kind of filter is on this pool?
Typically speaking, DE does not settle onto the walls. It’s more dense than water and usually sits on the bottom.
Not paintedIs the pool painted?
Can you show the filter?
How often is the pool vacuumed?
How often is the pool brushed?
Muriatic acid? What would it indicate if it bubbles?Put a drop of acid on some of the collected material to see if it bubbles.
If you rub your hand on the wall, does it leave white residue on your hand?
Muriatic acid.Put a drop of acid on some of the collected material to see if it bubbles.
If I sweep up the small amount of residue on the deck and put a little muriatic acid on it, is that enough to test?Muriatic acid.
Indicates calcium carbonate if it bubbles.