How to lower combined clorine level?
- Thread starter maintainpool
- Start date
Yes, CC is chlorine combined with something, usually ammonia but sometimes other things.
Just added another 2 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine, testing 40 minutes after shows FC only at 3 and CC went up AGAIN,now CC is at 11.
Why is CC continuing to go up and FC is going up so slow?
How much liquid chlorine is this SLAM process going to take?
Why is CC continuing to go up and FC is going up so slow?
How much liquid chlorine is this SLAM process going to take?
That's a lot of CC. Here is a video of the test to confirm that it's being done correctly.
The total amount of chlorine might be a lot. It's hard to say.
Are there any leftover chemicals from last season?
If yes, what are they?
FAS/DPD Chlorine test for the TF-100 - YouTube
The total amount of chlorine might be a lot. It's hard to say.
Are there any leftover chemicals from last season?
If yes, what are they?
FAS/DPD Chlorine test for the TF-100 - YouTube
Yup testing like that video, now the CC is up to 13.5 and only 3.5 FC.
Put in 7 gallons of liquid chlorine today, don't think this is working out.
Put in 7 gallons of liquid chlorine today, don't think this is working out.
I’m not an expert on ammonia, but from what i’ve Seen in the forum, if you have ammonia you have to keep adding chlorine until the ammonia is gone. I’ll see if I can find a thread for you.
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This looks like a good one - have a read through
- - - Updated - - -
This looks like a good one - have a read through
Just for clarity........your adding r-0871 in drops to turn the sample clear and that takes about 6drps of r-0871? Hence FC of 3
Then adding 5drops of the r-0003 to turn the sample pink again and it's taking you 27 drops of r-0871 to make it clear again? Hence 13.5 CC.
Then adding 5drops of the r-0003 to turn the sample pink again and it's taking you 27 drops of r-0871 to make it clear again? Hence 13.5 CC.
I think that it's probably ammonia. It might take a lot of chlorine to get it cleared.
If you're looking for an easier solution, I don't know of one.
I understand that it's frustrating and expensive and time consuming. However, sometimes these things happen. Once you get past it, it will be a lot easier. Have patience.
If you're looking for an easier solution, I don't know of one.
I understand that it's frustrating and expensive and time consuming. However, sometimes these things happen. Once you get past it, it will be a lot easier. Have patience.
How much is too much liquid chlorine to add in a given day until it can damage the pool equipment or liner?
According to thread I linked to:
“If you still show ammonia in the pool, do the ammonia protocol, which is dose to reach 10ppm FC, wait 10 minutes, test FC again. If FC is 5 or less raise it back to 10 ppm. Once the FC is 6 or more after 10 minutes you can increase the test intervals gradually by 30 minutes as the FC begins to last longer periods of time.
If there is no ammonia test and dose the pool to reach 10 ppm of FC every 2 hours, or if you work, once before work, once after work, once at dinnertime, and once at bedtime.”
Hopefully this will zap that ammonia and then you can complete your SLAM. I know it is probably tempting to throw a boatload of chlorine in a one shot deal, but that is risking damage to your liner and equipment.
“If you still show ammonia in the pool, do the ammonia protocol, which is dose to reach 10ppm FC, wait 10 minutes, test FC again. If FC is 5 or less raise it back to 10 ppm. Once the FC is 6 or more after 10 minutes you can increase the test intervals gradually by 30 minutes as the FC begins to last longer periods of time.
If there is no ammonia test and dose the pool to reach 10 ppm of FC every 2 hours, or if you work, once before work, once after work, once at dinnertime, and once at bedtime.”
Hopefully this will zap that ammonia and then you can complete your SLAM. I know it is probably tempting to throw a boatload of chlorine in a one shot deal, but that is risking damage to your liner and equipment.
Have you added anything besides bleach? Non chlorine shock?
Seems like just a large case of ammonia. You have to just keep adding the bleach until the CC's drop and the FC's go up. It will actually happen quite suddenly I believe once you have removed all the ammonia.
Seems like just a large case of ammonia. You have to just keep adding the bleach until the CC's drop and the FC's go up. It will actually happen quite suddenly I believe once you have removed all the ammonia.
So over the course of a day, how much liquid chlorine is too much that could risk damage to pool equipment or liner?
I am not very active on the forums but I have been reading these forums for over a year now. I have the TFP app on my phone and the method here surely works.
From what I gather everyone is trying to tell you here is that no one knows how much chlorine it will take to solve the issue.
You must add chlorine to fc 10ppm however much the app recommends to get there for whatever percentage the bottles say.
Wait 15min.
Test water.
Add chlorine to get fc to 10ppm
Repeat until FC is at 6 or higher.
This is the info I can see that everyone is mentioning to you in this thread. Don't add powder or pucks as they contain cya and it feeds the ammonia and makes more of it.
I can see you have been using 10% and 12.5% bottles.
You can use the 6-8% bottles from someplace like walmart as well. Usually like $1.67 a bottle and when figuring out cost to chlorine percent the walmart brand bleach (chlorine) is usually far cheaper. Just uses more bottles is all. The TFP app has a chlorine calculator you can use to see what the difference percentage to cost ratio is just by plugging the numbers into the app.
Also, pictures can go a long way for good advice from people here as well if your willing to take them and show exactly how the pool looks with the test kit results.
I am sure if I was wrong on any of this info someone will correct me.
From what I gather everyone is trying to tell you here is that no one knows how much chlorine it will take to solve the issue.
You must add chlorine to fc 10ppm however much the app recommends to get there for whatever percentage the bottles say.
Wait 15min.
Test water.
Add chlorine to get fc to 10ppm
Repeat until FC is at 6 or higher.
This is the info I can see that everyone is mentioning to you in this thread. Don't add powder or pucks as they contain cya and it feeds the ammonia and makes more of it.
I can see you have been using 10% and 12.5% bottles.
You can use the 6-8% bottles from someplace like walmart as well. Usually like $1.67 a bottle and when figuring out cost to chlorine percent the walmart brand bleach (chlorine) is usually far cheaper. Just uses more bottles is all. The TFP app has a chlorine calculator you can use to see what the difference percentage to cost ratio is just by plugging the numbers into the app.
Also, pictures can go a long way for good advice from people here as well if your willing to take them and show exactly how the pool looks with the test kit results.
I am sure if I was wrong on any of this info someone will correct me.
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
As long as there is ammonia and you are adding to 10ppm FC, there isn't going to be any danger to your liner or equipment.
The problem is we can't seem to get FC up high enough, after 3x gallons of 10% liquid and another 4x gallons of 12.5% liquid all added over the course of 7 hours yesterday, the FC only got up to 3.5 but the CC kept rising and was up to 13.5 after last chlorine addition.
This morning the FC was back down to 0.75 and the CC dropped to 9.
PH also dropped from 7.2 to 6.8. Does adding liquid chlorine drop PH and Alkalinity?
This morning the FC was back down to 0.75 and the CC dropped to 9.
PH also dropped from 7.2 to 6.8. Does adding liquid chlorine drop PH and Alkalinity?
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
Did you remove the pucks as Dom suggested? They are very acidic AND can help the ammonia survive in spite of your efforts.
Oxidizing ammonia is acidic because ammonia contains 4 hydrogen ions, which are released when the chlorine oxidizes the nitrogen.
2NH4+ + 3OCl- --> N2 + 3H2O + 2H+ +3Cl-
Raise the TA by about 10 ppm and then continue SLAM.
2NH4+ + 3OCl- --> N2 + 3H2O + 2H+ +3Cl-
Raise the TA by about 10 ppm and then continue SLAM.
This is why everyone keeps telling you that you need to re-test for FC 10-30 minutes after adding. Because the ammonia consumes it extremely quickly, so in all likelihood you need to add more. CC is going to go through the roof until all the ammonia is gone, because it immediately binds to the FC and forms CC.
Very strange test results!!
Here is a different thread where they had the same issue.
It will eventually break. The process is working.
Here is a different thread where they had the same issue.
It will eventually break. The process is working.