How should I replumb this?

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tomballpkr

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Aug 3, 2013
25
My valve body cracked and I am not sure of the best way to go about replumbing this. The valve in question is the one right behind the new one in this photo. The hose coming out of that pipe and heading to the right is for a 'HASA Liquidator"

My concern is that there is simply not a good way to do this and be able to fit all of the pieces back together. Do I simply need to use a union or unions strategically?

What would you recommend?

Thank you!

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Tom,

You are between a rock and a hard place... :(

I don't see anyway around replumbing the entire suction side from the ground up..

Let's see if one of our other members has some better ideas...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
You don't have much room. One thought, rather than replace the 3 way valve, have you considered putting a 2 way valve on each skimmer suction. It would match to your main drain set up. That way, you would have complete independent control of each suction line.

Here is a sketch but it does require a complete redo of the suction side. I drew the lines to go above the plane of the intake of the pump to allow room for the valves as it appears to be very short distance. You would need to measure everything to confirm.
MD_2 Skimmers plus Spa Suction.PNG
 
This is not going to be an easy one but I can walk you through it if you are willing to remove this section “red” being cuts and you would need at least 2 of these.

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Some 2” pipe some 90s 2” T and a 6pack of beer. But at this point you may as well do all the intake.
 

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This would be one way but you risk handles hitting. It’s hard to be certain because you may come across a few issues. You should probably grab some street 90s as well. You would do section 1-2-3 in order. Have the end in mind. Edit: actually this may be risky. Valve body’s may be too close Edit you can also go the route of having section 1 move away from the pump and up it may give you more play.
 
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I appreciate the feedback. When each of you says "replumb the entire input side", I think you are meaning the entire pool side not including spa and back to pump?

When I asked the question about unions, I was thinking of the following, which I thought might be straightforward. What are downsides to this?
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I think the ideas above centralize on something like this. Can you confirm that I have this correct? (@Poolbreh)

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There is also this suggestion to use 2-way valves and get more control. Which stinks because I already bought the 3-way (@HermanTX)

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Do I understand these two ideas correctly and is one 'better' than another for flow, complexity, or risk?

Thanks!
Tomballpkr
 

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I think I prefer Hermans over mine once you have drawn it out. Honestly I think you’ll have a bit more play. I don’t use unions, unless it’s heat unions for pumps or different equipment. But I don’t see any harm if you wanted to use them. The question will be, will you have space for them.
 
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tomballpkr said:
Thanks for the feedback. Does that include my union idea or just the two TFP ideas? Any downside to unions if they fit?
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Your concept is good. I don't see a huge advantage of using unions because those valves do have a good life span but I see the point since you need to change the one you have.
The great thing about the forum is that you get different perspectives and all may be beneficial.
I still think space in all of these will be your biggest challenge. So I would dry fit everything to ensure it all works.
 
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I would do this section first, get the rest of green level and glued but make sure you have yellow measured and dry fit on top and everything lines up, glue manifold(yellow) together as one unit you may or may not need street 90s. Glue all ports and plop down. Work on U loops with end in mind. Yes I would use the 2.5-2 slip reducers, you’ll need 2 of them to go over the 2 valves that are cut flush. I would just dry fit everything first to make sure everything lines up, just don’t forget to glue something when the time comes.
 
Whichever way you chose can work as space seems to be your biggest challenge. One more piece of advice to note, be sure to have a good bevel on all cuts since some of the glue joints won't let you twist but rather push onto the glue joint. This way you won't push away the glue that you'll so much depend on for a leak free job.
 

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