How much MA to add at a time

[db100]

Pool math is telling me to add 5.1 gal of MA. I'm not opposed to that figure, I'm just worried about adding that much all at once. I'm also concerned about adding the MA and the chlorine at the same time. Seems I read (here I think) that I should wait a period of time between adding the MA and the chlorine. Here are my numbers (target values based on Pool Math calculations): Pool Math is also telling me to replace 11% (3K gal) of the water. I'm thinking that I should replace the water first, then retest. Any suggestions? thanks



NOW - Target
FC 2 - 4

pH 10 - 7.5

TA 230 - 100

CH 270 - 300

CYA 45 - 40

 

[Richard320]

Where did you get pH of 10? I'm unaware of any tester that reads that high.

What does the acid demand test in your K-2006 say? That will give you a good doublecheck.

 

[db100]

I had to guess at ten as the color was off the chart. My demand test said to multiply by ten, the number of drops it takes to get to the correct color and that was 23

 

[ajw22]

Set PoolMath PH to 8 and target to 7.2. Add that amount of MA. Test PH again. Repeat as necessary. Keep NOW at 8 until you get a good PH reading.

Adding the MA will lower your TA.

 

[db100]

Great, thanks. I'll retest everything after I get a good pH

db

 

[Richard320]

I had to guess at ten as the color was off the chart. My demand test said to multiply by ten, the number of drops it takes to get to the correct color and that was 23

23 drops would come to over 4 gallons but that still seems extreme.

I would limit things to 1/2 gallon at a time with the pump running and a little brushing to set up some cross-currents. Retest every half hour until the color shows up on the test block.

Just to be sure.... you haven't recently replaced test reagents have you? Because Taylor has two different pH indicators and they're not interchangeable.

 

[db100]

thanks for the info. I just replaced the whole Taylor kit with a brand new one, so all the regents are from one batch (I hope)

 

[db100]

I ended up adding 2 gal. of MA and my pH is now 7.2 Free Chlorine is at 0. So, I think I'll add the 2 gal of bleach and then retest the pH before I add the soda pool math suggested. thanks again for the good advice!!

 

[mknauss]

Soda?? No need for any soda ash. You have your pH were you want it, why mess with it and your TA???

 

[db100]

Ignorance speaking here, the soda is what pool math tells me to do, but I wondered about the TA and soda as well, so I thought I had better retest before I added anything else. I guess experience will help as i could go round and round with the testing and never get to where I need to be. I realize that the pool chemistry is not a hard science, it's just challenging sometimes to know what to do and what to leave well enough alone. Thanks for the info, and I won't add anything until I retest. I hope I get to the point when I can relax about when to stop micromanaging the chems.

 

[mknauss]

The GOAL levels in POOLMATH are the mid point of a range. If your pH is 7.2, then that is in the range of 7.2 and 7.8. No action needed.

TA should be left alone unless your pH becomes unstable (normally below 50 ppm TA) or is so high it drives your pH up very fast.

Pool School - Recommended Levels This link show the ranges based on your pool surface type.

 

[MannyT]

If your test is within the specified range you shouldn't need to change it. Pool math will tell you what you need to get to the desired target that was saved but if you are within the range you necessarily don't need to change unless you are trying to reach a certain CSI.

For example my ph was 7.8 within range but my CSI was .1 and I like my CSI slightly negative I brought it down to 7.6 to get to CSI -1.2 all my other results stayed the same since they were in range but not exactly at my targets.

 

[ajw22]

Ignorance speaking here, the soda is what pool math tells me to do, but I wondered about the TA and soda as well, so I thought I had better retest before I added anything else. I guess experience will help as i could go round and round with the testing and never get to where I need to be. I realize that the pool chemistry is not a hard science, it's just challenging sometimes to know what to do and what to leave well enough alone. Thanks for the info, and I won't add anything until I retest. I hope I get to the point when I can relax about when to stop micromanaging the chems.

All the chemical tests do not have equal importance.

FC is the most important and can change in hours or days. PH is equally important. those two you need to focus on.

TA is tied to PH and is secondary. You only have to deal with TA if your PH is not stable and rises quickly. And best way to take TA down is doing it as you take PH down with MA, aerate to raise PH, and repeat until you get a good PH/TA balance.

Get your FC, CYA, and PH in balance and stable. Then you can move onto your TA and CH if needed.

 

[db100]

Thanks everyone for the advice, and the link. I forgot to look there :/