How long to run…

[Everett_88]

Is there a “math” equation to roughly figure out how long to run my SWCG and at what %?

Meaning, if I know I’m adding ~30oz of 10% LC every 14days I should, in turn, start my SWCG to run for Xhrs at X% output to start.

Probably overthinking it… but thought I’d ask. New pool owner.

 

[Texas Splash]

The best place to start is by using the PoolMath - Effects of Adding section. There you will get a good baseline to start with for anticipated FC output based on % and runtime settings.

 

[newdude]

Use the upper left menu of poolmath for 'effects of adding'. Select SWG and use the eyeglass icon to find your SWGs output. Then mess around with run time and % to see the appropriate FC increase per day. It's a moving target increasing a little each day until the mid season, where it then slightly decreases everyday until winter. Think of a bell curve for FC loss, with little (0 or 1) in the winter. 2 or 3 in the spring and fall and 4 or 5 in the peak season. Wichita won't have as much loss as the south, but you get the idea.

Your mission is to match or exceed the daily loss of that point in the season, remaining free and clear of min at all times. Remember the cell takes its whole cycle to add the days FC and the pool may swing during the day. Always know your low point and adjust the high point accordingly.

Use PM to do all the maths about it.

 

[Everett_88]

Is it better to just have the SWCG run at 100% output and than vary the amount of time it runs? Just to eliminate one variable and than focus only on runtime?

Thanks for hint on PoolMath; didn’t know that.

 

[Everett_88]

Wow! I just played with that “effects of adding”. That’s really helpful!

 

[newdude]

I run 24/7 for many reasons, among them only having one variable to adjust (%). As such, it takes 24 hours to make my 4(?) FC but I lose it all in 6 to 8 hours during the day.

Always understand your timing. A 5 may be ok at the end of the day if you're producing overnight to make it up but may be too low in the morning with the daytime losses on their way.

 

[Everett_88]

Makes sense! Thanks

 

[Jimrahbe]

88,

The real key in my mind is to never, ever try to maintain the minimum FC level. Your goal should be to keep your FC inside your 'target' range at all times. And of course your Target range is based on your CYA level.

See the saltwater section of this chart..

FC/CYA Levels

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Everett_88]

88,

The real key in my mind is to never, ever try to maintain the minimum FC level. Your goal should be to keep your FC inside your 'target' range at all times. And of course your Target range is based on your CYA level.

See the saltwater section of this chart..

FC/CYA Levels

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks for the reminder. I need to up my CYA before the season gets going. I am sitting at 40 as I just needed to get something in there for the winter months since it was a fresh build. But, I’ll adjust CYA to be in alignment with the saltwater recommendations as the season gets going.

 

[Everett_88]

So I’m up and running. SWCG is working great.

I’m running my pump minimally (6hrs per day) right now because I’m not open yet, but I plan to run 24/7 at 15gpm. That’s too low to turn on the IC40 (per manual, have not tested it). So, I’ve created a schedule in my Pentair app to “add chlorine” were it runs in the middle of the night, at 25gpm, and my relay board cycles on the SWCG at that time. The IC40 is huge for my 15,000 gallon pool (which is awesome!) and with it at 100% I only have been adding chlorine for 30 mins a day to add the .25ppm I need.

When I fully open I plan to run the pump 24/7 at 15gpm except for when the HP cycles on (30GPM) and when the SWCG cycles on (25GPM).

Is there anything wrong with this process of adding all my chlorine at once, relatively quickly, with IC40 at 100%? Then my only variable to adjust is how long that one scheduled event runs daily. Seems okay in my head but thought I’d ask.

 

[newdude]

Is there anything wrong with this process of adding all my chlorine at once, relatively quickly, with IC40 at 100%?

Nothing wrong with it at all. There are many ways to skin this cat.

Be mindful of when you test, in relation to the daily loss and the daily production. As long as you understand those, then you can plan on how it's going to go down, and stay 2 steps ahead, free and clear of min at all times.

 

[Jimrahbe]

88,

I can't think of any reason to run the pump if you are not making chlorine.. What is the point.. If your cell is not working, then most likely your skimmers are not working either.. You should run the pump for a purpose.. What is your purpose of running your pump when it is not making chlorine?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Everett_88]

88,

I can't think of any reason to run the pump if you are not making chlorine.. What is the point.. If your cell is not working, then most likely your skimmers are not working either.. You should run the pump for a purpose.. What is your purpose of running your pump when it is not making chlorine?

Thanks,

Jim R.

Well… my skimmers open at 15GPM. However, now that you mention this, do skimmer really do anything with an auto cover? I can’t imagine they do?

I am running it only for filtration. I know turnover is meaningless but I figure I also need to filter the water so I went with a low (only requiring 70 watts of power) setting to still also water to run through the filter.

What would you suggest?

 

[newdude]

However, now that you mention this, do skimmer really do anything with an auto cover? I can’t imagine they do?

They don't. Lol. I mean. Stuff will still make it through the crack where it meets the decking on windy days, but it's a minute fraction of an open pool.

I know turnover is meaningless

Exactly. How does your covered pool and the open one three houses over with lots of trees and a family of 7 possibly both need 3 turnovers ? Or the AirBnB across the street that has big parties every weekend?

For normal closed operation, the time it takes to make your FC is likely enough run time per day. You really only need 20 mins to mix the chemicals and there won't be anything to filter.

If the cover is open, say for most of 4th of July weekend, then you'll need alot more, say, 8 hours on low speed. You'll also need more FC so the SWG run time may filter you enough killing 2 birds.

only requiring 70 watts of power)

At 700 RPM, mine uses 35W. I'd personally probably leave it on (either 35W or 70w) because for $10 a month, who cares, and then i wouldnt have to adjust the filtering schedule if we swam more this weekend.

 

[Jimrahbe]

88,

I missed the auto-cover.. If I had an auto-cover, I am not sure I would run 24/7.

Without a cover, it makes sense, as you need more chlorine and stuff is always falling into your pool.

I don't know enough about auto-cover operation to make any recommendations..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[rjb1211]

Use the upper left menu of poolmath for 'effects of adding'. Select SWG and use the eyeglass icon to find your SWGs output. Then mess around with run time and % to see the appropriate FC increase per day. It's a moving target increasing a little each day until the mid season, where it then slightly decreases everyday until winter. Think of a bell curve for FC loss, with little (0 or 1) in the winter. 2 or 3 in the spring and fall and 4 or 5 in the peak season. Wichita won't have as much loss as the south, but you get the idea.

Your mission is to match or exceed the daily loss of that point in the season, remaining free and clear of min at all times. Remember the cell takes its whole cycle to add the days FC and the pool may swing during the day. Always know your low point and adjust the high point accordingly.

Use PM to do all the maths about it.

So how often do you adjust the output of the cell, and do you make adjustments based on the weather forecast? For example if you are seeing a forecast of several days of a weather pattern do you bump the output up or down in anticipation of the expected FC loss?

 

[newdude]

I am a poor choice to ask because I'm WAY too lazy to micromanage it. I got the thing to make things easier, not give me something else to fiddle with.

So I set mine to match the blazing sun days of that general point in the season and accept that it over produces on the cloudy days.

With a wide open yard at the new place, I got 12 weeks on the highest setting needed (60% for me) both years. For early spring and fall it's 2 or 3 weeks per adjustment here.

At the old place i avergaged a month per adjustment with no two seasons the same of course.

You can go buck wild adjusting up/down all the time, and yes, you'll eventually get a feel for 'the next 3 days are all rain and I can go to 20% (etc etc)'. But then you have to bump it back in 3 days.

 

[rjb1211]

I am a poor choice to ask because I'm WAY too lazy to micromanage it. I got the thing to make things easier, not give me something else to fiddle with.

So I set mine to match the blazing sun days of that general point in the season and accept that it over produces on the cloudy days.

With a wide open yard at the new place, I got 12 weeks on the highest setting needed (60% for me) both years. For early spring and fall it's 2 or 3 weeks per adjustment here.

At the old place i avergaged a month per adjustment with no two seasons the same of course.

You can go buck wild adjusting up/down all the time, and yes, you'll eventually get a feel for 'the next 3 days are all rain and I can go to 20% (etc etc)'. But then you have to bump it back in 3 days.

That’s actually a very insightful answer. It tells me that I don’t need to micromanage.

 

[newdude]

#teamrunhot cordially extends an invitation to the club. I am the chairman and treasurer. Please make all dues checks out to Newdude with a capital N.

 

[Everett_88]

#teamrunhot cordially extends an invitation to the club. I am the chairman and treasurer. Please make all dues checks out to Newdude with a capital N.

So what’s “hot”? 2-3ppm over the top of recommend? 10+?

Or you just don’t care? lol