How do I get rid of foaming?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Charlie Z. said:
All on all, regardless how inaccurate the numbers are, showing variety of the numbers, varying from 50, 70 or even 100 of CYA, well the upper bound I heard is 120, will that cause a deadly error, messing up my pool? I really don't think so.
Click to expand...
Nope. No deadly error likely. Rashes are common but the terrible things are incredibly rare.

But you'll have algae and foam. Like you do. It's unsightly, but harmless. (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Mdragger88 said:
Best of luck to you-
The proven recipe has been laid out for you.
SLAM Process with
Test Kits Compared
Its up to you to follow it.
Click to expand...
Yes, I am following that idea and I think it's a very good strategy. I am just not as strict on the CYA level as some of you guys had hoped for.

For instance, I just assume the CYA of my pool is ~50, calculate the shock FC needed to be 20 ppm.
Using the calculator to figure out the amount of 10% bleach needed is 5 Gallon and 1 Qt.
This morning I got TC and FC greater than 10 ppm.
I don't think I can determine the accurate numbers for TC and FC beyond 10 ppm, don't know any kit can do that.
Maybe you guys can help me on that.

Thanks,
Charlie
 
Last edited:
Charlie Z. said:
I don't think I can determine the accurate numbers for TC and FC beyond 10 ppm, don't know any kit can do that.
Maybe you guys can help me on that.
Click to expand...
We already have - numerous times.

The pool can/will get worse. Just bite the bullet already. Quit wasting time - it is in limited supply for all of us.

What test kit are you using?
We don't offer help/advice unless you can provide accurate test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared

In order to provide help/advice, we all need to be on the same page. Right now we aren't even using the same book.
 
Charlie Z. said:
I don't think I can determine the accurate numbers for TC and FC beyond 10 ppm, don't know any kit can do that.
Click to expand...
The kits we recommend are reliable to any reasonable SLAM level.

Charlie Z. said:
Now, let's come back to the question of how important the CYA really is? Well, if you are in somewhere not so much sun, you can use less or forget about it all together! For instance, if I have an in-door pool, I don't need it, because it tight up my FC which force me to dump more bleach to kill the bacteria. So, CYA can be as little as 0 - 20. Well, if I am in Texas or California or Florida, I can use more of that stuff. Well, you can put 80 to 120 ppm. If you ask me if CYA is that critical, my answer would be: probably not! If I don't use it or use less ----- it probably means every day I dump more bleach into the water to compensate the UV loss of chlorine! That only means being a fool that I waste some money to it, that's all. You will figure out pretty soon go up a little with CYA will save you money!!!! That's all there is to it, my friends! The experts even don't agree from each other on how much CYA you really need, so don't put too much, because it eventually will lock up your chlorine that no matter how much BLEACH you pour into the pool, it still won't stop your algae boom, then you are in a big problem!!!! So using too much of it is really a bad thing from this point of view. Furthermore, the chlorine tablet has tons of that stuff mixed in, that's why a lot of people can easily get too much of it into their pool without knowing it. It's a pain on the Rear, because in order to get rid of it you have drain some water and replace some fresh water, which is something I really reluctant to do.
Click to expand...
Here is a great place to dive deep, seems important to you. (see link below).

In a nutshell, as CYA rises to need to keep more FC (and HOCl) to SANITIZE (kill bacteria and algae) the pool. Hence our FC/CYA relationship. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

If you don't have an accurate CYA result and you don't have a way to measure FC, you don't know if you have enough HOCl to kill bacteria and algae. You are just shooting in the dark.

Maintaining enough HOCl (by using SLAM level FC for your CYA) to kill algae, through the slam process, is what clears the pool.

Have a read:

Pool Water Chemistry

This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Charlie Z. said:
Yes, I am following that idea and I think it's a very good strategy. I am just not as strict on the CYA level as some of you guys had hoped for.

For instance, I just assume the CYA of my pool is ~50, calculate the shock FC needed to be 20 ppm.
Using the calculator to figure out the amount of 10% bleach needed is 5 Gallon and 1 Qt.
This morning I got TC and FC greater than 10 ppm.
I don't think I can determine the accurate numbers for TC and FC beyond 10 ppm, don't know any kit can do that.
Maybe you guys can help me on that.

Thanks,
Charlie
Click to expand...
The recommended kits (Taylor k2006 & tf100/pro) can in fact do that. That’s why we only recommend those.
They test fc & cc separately up to 50ppm. All other kits max out at 5 or 10ppm.
These kits also contain the cya turbidity test which is the only cya test we recommend because it is the most accurate.
Without knowing your true cya you are dumping in expensive liquid chlorine & likely either missing the mark
(which is inefficient)
or over shooting
(which risks damage to surfaces, equipment, & swimmers & wastes expensive chlorine).
This totally unnecessary & wasteful (with both your time & $$)
Get one of the
Test Kits Compared ordered now so you can accurately & efficiently execute the slam & get your pool back.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Mdragger88 said:
The recommended kits (Taylor k2006 & tf100/pro) can in fact do that. That’s why we only recommend those.
They test fc & cc separately up to 50ppm. All other kits max out at 5 or 10ppm.
These kits also contain the cya turbidity test which is the only cya test we recommend because it is the most accurate.
Without knowing your true cya you are dumping in expensive liquid chlorine & likely either missing the mark
(which is inefficient)
or over shooting
(which risks damage to surfaces, equipment, & swimmers & wastes expensive chlorine).
This totally unnecessary & wasteful (with both your time & $$)
Get one of the
Test Kits Compared ordered now so you can accurately & efficiently execute the slam & get your pool back.
Click to expand...
That's good to know
Mdragger88 said:
The recommended kits (Taylor k2006 & tf100/pro)
Click to expand...
That's good to know! Nice to know Mdragger88, I will check that out (y)
 
Nice looking box anyway, worth the money?

Taylor k2006 Contents (Walmart $94)​

  • R-0003: DPD Reagent #3 A Size
  • R-0004: pH Indicator Solution (Phenol Red) A Size
  • R-0005: Acid Demand Reagent A Size
  • R-0006: Base Demand Reagent A Size
  • R-0007: Thiosulfate N/10 A Size
  • R-0008: Total Alkalinity Indicator A Size
  • R-0009: Sulfuric Acid .12N A Size
  • R-0010: Calcium Buffer A Size
  • R-0011L: Calcium Indicator Liquid A Size
  • R-0012: Hardness Reagent A Size
  • R-0013: Cyanuric Acid Reagent A Size (2 bottles)
  • R-0630: Chrome Indicator A Size
  • R-0718: Silver Nitrate Reagent A Size (2 bottles)
  • R-0870: DPD Powder I Size
  • R-0871: FAS-DPD Titrating Reagent A Size
NEW TAYLOR K-2006 Complete Swimming Pool/Spa Test Kit FAS-DPD K2006 Chlorine - Walmart.com

Contents of TF-Pro Salt (with SmartStir) test kit:

  • Smart Stir magnetic stirring device with 4 AA batteries
  • Magnetic stirring bar
  • Heavy duty 40mL cylinder with embossed graduations
  • Comparator block for R-0014 pH indicator and R-0600 orthotolidine reagent
  • R-0600 -- 0.75 oz dropper bottle
  • R-0014 -- 0.75 oz dropper bottle
  • R-0007 – 1 oz dropper bottle
  • R-0008 – 1 oz dropper bottle (dark fluid)
  • R-0009 – 1 oz dropper bottle
  • R-0010 – 1 oz dropper bottle
  • R-0011L – 1 oz dropper bottle (dark fluid)
  • R-0012 – 1 oz dropper bottle
  • CYA view tube (Little, TF-Pro sized) with black dot at bottom of tube
  • R-0003 – 0.75 oz dropper bottle
  • R-0870 powder - small white jar*
  • R-0871 – 2 oz white dropper bottle
  • Graduated cylinder for chlorine testing
  • R-0013 – 6 oz
  • CYA mixing bottle with printed graduations and red tip (please cut off top 1/8” of tip)
  • Small blue scoop for R-0870 DPD powder (hold flat end and use scoop end)
  • R-0630 -- 0.75oz dropper bottle
  • R-0718 -- 0.75oz dropper bottle
  • Laminated instruction card
  • Tip sheet
Link to -- TF-Pro Salt
 

Attachments

  • NEW TAYLOR K-2006.jpg
    NEW TAYLOR K-2006.jpg
    153.6 KB · Views: 2
  • TF-PRO SALT（1）.jpg
    TF-PRO SALT（1）.jpg
    74 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:
Woke up from a relaxing/enjoyable dream, I suddenly realized that a concept of dilution could do the trick. Wow, grandma's cookie recipe measuring cup would achieve the same accuracy for measuring high mark TC and FC, when average Taylor shop Joe could throw his hands up in the air.

Eureka! 🤪

Okay, I was wrongk! They use high school wet-chem lab Titration method. Well, it's got to be tricky when it comes to determine the end point, no luck for the color blinded.

 
Last edited:
Charlie Z. said:
I suddenly realized that a concept of dilution could do the trick
Click to expand...
It does the trick. But it doesn't solve the inaccuracy of the test method, so it still doesn't help.

Instead of a 'guess' you have a diluted guess. :ROFLMAO:

With your new kit, you will also be able to test to prove that the algae is in fact gone. The lack of this ability ensures the pool store crowd will remain on the chemical merry go round that keeps the industry afloat.

Algae is microscopic and only is visible once it reaches a certain level of growth. A bunch can be growing while the water is clear, just waiting to explode exponentially into a swamp.

The sun and organics/algae consume chlorine. If you lose 1ppm or less overnight with the sun out of the equation, then you've killed all the algae. Nobody can tell 1ppm on a test strip, if it was accurate twice in a row in the first place. The pool store simply isn't open at dusk and dawn to test.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Newdude said:
It does the trick. But it doesn't solve the inaccuracy of the test method, so it still doesn't help.

Instead of a 'guess' you have a diluted guess. :ROFLMAO:

With your new kit, you will also be able to test to prove that the algae is in fact gone. The lack of this ability ensures the pool store crowd will remain on the chemical merry go round that keeps the industry afloat.

Algae is microscopic and only is visible once it reaches a certain level of growth. A bunch can be growing while the water is clear, just waiting to explode exponentially into a swamp.

The sun and organics/algae consume chlorine. If you lose 1ppm or less overnight with the sun out of the equation, then you've killed all the algae. Nobody can tell 1ppm on a test strip, if it was accurate twice in a row in the first place. The pool store simply isn't open at dusk and dawn to test.
Click to expand...
Sounds like words of wisdom!

Appreciated
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply