How can you tell if Hayward SWG is going bad?

tech135797531

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2019
53
FL
I have a Hayward Aquarite 940. Salt level is 3200, water is balanced and at 62 degrees in the N FL winter. it has been in operation since August 2019, so it's 2.5 years old, almost out of warranty.

I find myself having to keep it at 35-40% to maintain FC (as opposed to what should normally be 10-15% this time of the year) and on occasion there's a day where the FC drops during the day 1-2ppm like the salt cell was off with no one using the pool or changes in temp/sunshine. I add liquid chlorine and then it's fine like nothing happened for another week+. The overnight FC test passes with flying colors so we're not talking about algae. If I manually adjust the dial, I hear the buzzing noise go in and out. The flow switch has been pointing in the right direction and has not been touched since day 1.

What are the signs that a SWG is going bad? Is there any testing that can be done before I engage Hayward support? Is there a way to test the flow switch and could it be working on and off? Before I start going rounds with them. which is what I expect, I want to make sure that I've done all that I can. Thank you in advance!
 
First, the Hayward cells will reduce production by 20% when the water temperature is less than 60F and when temps drop below 50F, they shut off. What is the water temperature?

Second, the salt level you posted, was that from a test kit or the SWG display. If the display differs from a test kit by more than 500 ppm, then the cell is either dirty or failing. So if you don't have a separate test kit, then you should get one. A Taylor salt drop kit is one of the best. Don't use strips.


Third, if you suspect the cell is failing, after cleaning it first, then you can take it to a Hayward approved test location, usually in a pool store, to have the cell tested. If it fails, then can then handle the warranty.
 
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I have reached out to an authorized repair center and they informed me that their test is pass or fail. So if it's still producing at 10% capacity, it will pass and the warranty will not kick in. If that is indeed the case, it is truly disappointing. I'll still take it in after I get the test kit but I'm not getting my hopes up. Also, as I had mentioned, the pool water is still above 60 degrees and has not dropped below.
 
Temperature sensors in the SWG are often off. The SWG may think your water temperature is lower then it is.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
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