Hot tub heater

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cainsconundrum

cainsconundrum

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Jun 20, 2017
15
Harrells NC
I've got a Hayward H100ID1 heater thats giving me a fit. It fires about 15 seconds and shuts down, tries again and same outcome. All the limits, switches and sensors check fine. Burner is clean, the LP pressure is right for incoming and at manifold. I thought maybe the gas valve but the new one didnt matter. Is the ignitor also a thermistor or thermal device? Thanks for any advice?
 
That sounds like a flame sensor problem.

If it fires and is lit for 16 seconds then the ignitor is good. However the flame sensor may be integrated in with the ignitor and that may be bad.

Let's see if @swamprat69 knows what type of flame sensor this heater uses.
 
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This seems to be the only manual that I can find for this specific heater https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/Manual367.pdf This also seems to be the best photo of the control module Hayward IDXMOD1930 Ignition Control Modules for H100 H-Series It appears that this heater uses a spark ignitor rather than a hot surface ignitor. I may be mistaken, but I don't see any points on the control module to measure flame current. The flame current is measured through the grounded rod on the ignitor that is attached directly to the ignitor mounting plate. Both the electrode and the grounding rod on the ignitor must be clean bare metal. The copper mounting plate on the ignitor must be clean bare metal and the metal that it contacts on the burner plate when mounted must also be clean bare metal. Lastly, the heater cabinet itself must have a good ground. Cleaning all these surfaces would aid in getting the best possible flame current ( flame sensing).
 
swamprat69 said:
This seems to be the only manual that I can find for this specific heater https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/Manual367.pdf This also seems to be the best photo of the control module Hayward IDXMOD1930 Ignition Control Modules for H100 H-Series It appears that this heater uses a spark ignitor rather than a hot surface ignitor. I may be mistaken, but I don't see any points on the control module to measure flame current. The flame current is measured through the grounded rod on the ignitor that is attached directly to the ignitor mounting plate. Both the electrode and the grounding rod on the ignitor must be clean bare metal. The copper mounting plate on the ignitor must be clean bare metal and the metal that it contacts on the burner plate when mounted must also be clean bare metal. Lastly, the heater cabinet itself must have a good ground. Cleaning all these surfaces would aid in getting the best possible flame current ( flame sensing).
Click to expand...
Thank you for the assistance. I've cleaned both the plates, electrodes and the grounding electrode. They were in pretty good shape. I can get a ignitor and cable or best to get the control board with the ignitor and cable. Thoughts?
 
Do you have a multimeter and the ability to use it safely and correctly? A couple other things that might effect the flame signal... the spark ignitor must be enveloped by the burner flame and the burner flame must be stable. You might be able to observe the burner flame with a small extension mirror while it is lit for the 15 sec.. It should be a stable flame that will be a couple shades of blue (with possible orange sparkles in it from burning of entrained dust). If it is wavering and also has a yellow coloring to it, you have a problem. It also shouldn't show a large amount of lift-off from the burner and shouldn't make a distinct "Whooshing" noise kinda like "white noise'. If the burner flame is not stable with a couple shades of blue, you may have dirty/plugged burners and/or gas manifold orifices, a heat exchanger blockage, failing inducer air (blower) motor or incorrect gas pressure. If you are lighting off and staying lit for 15 sec., you should not need to replace the ignitor. The manual states that there is a 10 sec. blower prepurge operation and a 10 sec trial for ignition. Does the flame maintain itself for 15 sec. or is it just 10 sec.? Does the spark ignitor spark the whole time that the burners are lit? Strange wiring on this heater... The 120/24V transformer has the primary (120V) powered by the ignition module and the secondary (24V) only powers the gas valve??? Do you know how old this heater is?
 
Yes, i do have access to a multimeter and a friend who can use it. In the mean time, the viewing port leaves much to be desired but the flame is pretty and blue but after timing from ignition only 9 seconds of flame. The flame is right at the burner no lift. I can't see if the ignitor is firing continously the way the unit is made but it's right above a burner. I have already pulled the burner and cleaned, it looked like new, checked the orfices as well. Installed in 2017, It's probably got less then 500 hours of run time. I did removed the ignitor from case and observed the spark, (gas was off and cleared 😁) there wasn't much of a spark but it might have been lack of grounding? It ignites everytime the gas valve opens thou. Pulled the control board as well, no sign of damaged or heated areas.
 
Also, can you confirm that the wiring diagram in the manual that I posted is the same as your heater as there may be different series of the heater that are wired and controlled differently. I am looking for confirmation that the only thing wired into the secondary (24V) side of the transformer is the gas valve?
 
swamprat69 said:
Also, can you confirm that the wiring diagram in the manual that I posted is the same as your heater as there may be different series of the heater that are wired and controlled differently. I am looking for confirmation that the only thing wired into the secondary (24V) side of the transformer is the gas valve?
Click to expand...
It was the circuit board. However once I replaced it, I found the brass extension on the boards ignitor module/sensor was loose, didn't reinstall to check but kept the board as a spare just in case. Thanks for the help...
 

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