High pressures after replacing and cleaning grids

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H

Hook_emHTX

Active member
Oct 6, 2019
26
Houston
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello all,

Newbie going on 3 years of battling my pool, being too hard headed to hire a professional.

Now that that’s out of the way, my story:

I have a Hayward DE filter. At the end of last season, my pump went out, resulting in a green algae filled swamp by the time I made the repairs. During my algae removal, upon inspection I noticed several of my grids were damaged again (I had already replaced several), so I went ahead and put all new grids in. I balanced my chemistry finally and returned the oool to its most desired state of warm and welcoming blue water. After doing this though, I noticed that I my pressure would build very quickly during the course of running the filter. I would backwash every couple of days. Now that we are in the warmer months, my pump is running frequently, and the pressure will build over several hours to more than 30 psi. Once I backwash, it will run at normal operating pressure for a short amount of time.

My grids look clean, but I was advised to try TSP (?) to clean them and alleviate this problem.

Is this the solution, and are there any other troubleshooting tips I can try while I’m breaking down the filter again? Any tips on this method?

I’m also concerned that these high pressures may have created another problem in that it appears there is a small amount of water draining through my waste line. This is a new valve, so I’m guessing I may have damaged the gasket?
 

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What you are experiencing sounds like you still have an algae issue, especially if you never performed the SLAM Process completely before. So this evening I would run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test using your TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit. Be sure to have a good starting FC level to start with and follow the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test carefully. If you fail the OCLT, then you know it's algae clogging the filter and you have to go back to the SLAM Process. If you pass the OCLT, then we go back to the maintenance performed before and troubleshoot.
 
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The leak sounds like it's coming from your spider gasket in the multiport valve. Was the entire assembly new or just portions? It is possible something got damaged over the winter I suppose, but a spider gasket should last several seasons.
 
Thanks.

In regards to the valve, the entire assembly was brand new.

As for the rest, I will need to follow up tomorrow. I can post my test results from today. I typically rely on Leslie’s because I am color blind and have struggles with my own testing in the past. This is today’s results, but for full disclosure, I haven’t maintained my chemistry for several months. I’ve added 2lbs of shock, a gallon of conditioner, and 20 oz of muriatic acid (I need to pick up more in the morning as I ran out today). My CYA has been very low for quite some time, but they recommended I not add anything until temperatures warmed up 2DDBA100-724D-4B2C-9E58-1C48107CAB3E.jpeg
 
One thing for sure, the pool store won't help you any better. Their testing is typically off and their advice not much better. If you have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kit, I would use that. Even though you might not see the pink color, you should be able to see the shade transition (from pink to clear) and that's what's most important. The CYA test is best done on your own as well, but you do want at least a CYA of 30. Stick with liquid chlorine for the SLAM Process. It's very important to follow the SLAM Process page for best results. But if you have more questions just let us know.
 
Texas Splash said:
One thing for sure, the pool store won't help you any better. Their testing is typically off and their advice not much better. If you have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kit, I would use that. Even though you might not see the pink color, you should be able to see the shade transition (from pink to clear) and that's what's most important. The CYA test is best done on your own as well, but you do want at least a CYA of 30. Stick with liquid chlorine for the SLAM Process. It's very important to follow the SLAM Process page for best results. But if you have more questions just let us know.
Click to expand...
Thank you.

I am currently waiting on the test kit arrive, but I do have a couple of follow up questions.

What are the benefits to liquid chlorine, and is it ok to SLAM with granular shock? I have about 30 lbs left and intend to use it.

Also, if my CYA is a little under 30, can I still SLAM?
 
Hook_emHTX said:
What are the benefits to liquid chlorine, and is it ok to SLAM with granular shock?
Click to expand...
Liquid chlorine is best for a SLAM Process and daily chlorine maintenance as it has no side effects other than a little salt. The granular shock stuff will have stabilizer with it and it will increase your CYA. Since you are waiting on your test kit and can't start the SLAM until it arrives, just add one gallon of liquid chlorine per day for now. Once you get your kit, if you confirm the CYA is indeed below 30, you can use some granular if you want. Use the PoolMath APP's Effects of Adding to see how much the CYA will increase with x-amount of trichlor or dichlor granular shock. Or just use pure stabilizer in the beginning to get the CYA to 30, then you can use the granular shock once in a while later. But it's best to not use it on a regular basis.
 
Texas Splash said:
Liquid chlorine is best for a SLAM Process and daily chlorine maintenance as it has no side effects other than a little salt. The granular shock stuff will have stabilizer with it and it will increase your CYA. Since you are waiting on your test kit and can't start the SLAM until it arrives, just add one gallon of liquid chlorine per day for now. Once you get your kit, if you confirm the CYA is indeed below 30, you can use some granular if you want. Use the PoolMath APP's Effects of Adding to see how much the CYA will increase with x-amount of trichlor or dichlor granular shock. Or just use pure stabilizer in the beginning to get the CYA to 30, then you can use the granular shock once in a while later. But it's best to not use it on a regular basis.
Click to expand...
I really wish I would have spent more time in here understanding the methods that are taught. With that said, I’ve recently spent a significant amount on trichlor and just purchased a couple hundred dollars of pucks for my online chlorinator. With that said, would it be safe to continue the use of of pucks until I get higher levels of CYA? It’s relatively nonexistent as of my last test, but I also did just add stabilizer. My test kit came in this evening, so I plan to test tomorrow morning. I can tell it will need to be SLAMed already, but I will try the OCLT to be sure tomorrow night.

Looks like I might be trying to sell this stuff on the open market if I can get my CYA up. My biggest concerns are the heat in Texas and maintaining my chlorine levels daily when I’m out of town or working, which is another reason I’d like to keep using the chlorinator.
 

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Yes, you can use the pucks until you get higher levels of CYA. You should always follow this: FC/CYA Levels

It may be that until you get your CYA up, you will find you need to supplement with LC, depending on your daily FC loss.

You indicated you just added stabilizer. How did you figure out how much to add? I agree with @Texas Splash, might download PoolMath it can help you with recommendations on what to add and how much.

Many use the chlorinator for vacation, work etc., or to get your CYA up. Just understand the relationship between FC, CYA and pucks. For every 1 FC, you are adding .6 CYA. Say your CYA is 50 when you leave. You will be gone for a week and your daily FC loss is 2.5. 2.5 * 7 = 17.5 FC. Assuming you set the puck chlorinator correctly, you will add 17.5 * .6 = ~10 CYA, ending up at 50 CYA. You have also raised your minimum FC from 4 to 5 and target from 6-8 to 7-9. Not bad, and with water loss/replacement and degradation, your CYA will come back down. All depends on how often you will be out of town.

No need to sell the pucks, they will work for vacation etc. Many of us that maintain a pool and travel have converted to either some sort of LC pump (automated or Stenner pump), or SWCG (salt water chlorine generator). Both can be set to chlorinate the pool without adding CYA. More Reading: Salt Water Chlorine Generators

Stenner liquid chlorine pump - How to choose and install

CHLORINE (LIQUID CHLORINE OR BLEACH) INJECTION SYSTEM Overall comment: if you can use a salt water generator (SWG), you should. Bleach is harder to do. Do you really want to use bleach? Will a SWG (generates bleach in the pool) work for you? If you have a variable speed (VS) pump, then...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Texas Splash said:
One thing for sure, the pool store won't help you any better. Their testing is typically off and their advice not much better. If you have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kit, I would use that. Even though you might not see the pink color, you should be able to see the shade transition (from pink to clear) and that's what's most important. The CYA test is best done on your own as well, but you do want at least a CYA of 30. Stick with liquid chlorine for the SLAM Process. It's very important to follow the SLAM Process page for best results. But if you have more questions just let us know.
Click to expand...
I’ve received the test kit and have been measuring my FC since beginning the process, but just as a word of advice, I wouldn’t recommend doing your own testing in house if you are color blind. Fortunately, I have folks in my house capable of helping with test results, but they are equally if not less reliable than Leslie’s.
 
By all means post back with any test question you might have. Folks here are happy tp help you through any testing process.

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TF100TestKit

The TF-100 sets the standard for excellence in Pool Testing Kits. It contains 7 separate tests to give you accurate readings on each important pool water par...
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Measuring FC was a bit of a challenge for me. I walked both my wife and son through the process to help me with the readings and to make sure our results were accurate. We are sitting at 13FC right now with an inaccurate reading of around 20CYA. The test kit doesn’t measure less than 30 CYA, but based on calculations and the conditioner recently added, I should be in the 20 range for CYA. I didn’t want to add any additional conditioner since I’m using granular chlorine to raise my chlorine levels.

I plan to take an FC reading in the morning to see what is lost. But if my readings were correct, I went from 14 to 13 in the last three hours without any direct sunlight or heat on the pool.
 
Hook_emHTX said:
But if my readings were correct, I went from 14 to 13 in the last three hours without any direct sunlight or heat on the pool.
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That's a bit excessive, but that may be related to the low CYA. It's interesting you haven't needed to backwash ..... IF your pressure gauge is working correctly. At some point, see if you can update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info. Be sure to include which test kit you are using now. See mine as an example. It really helps as the thread gets longer.

Accurate FC tests are important, and we understand you and the family are still working through the testing process, but if you have any doubts let us know. We'll watch for any updates tomorrow.
 
Texas Splash said:
That's a bit excessive, but that may be related to the low CYA. It's interesting you haven't needed to backwash ..... IF your pressure gauge is working correctly. At some point, see if you can update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info. Be sure to include which test kit you are using now. See mine as an example. It really helps as the thread gets longer.

Accurate FC tests are important, and we understand you and the family are still working through the testing process, but if you have any doubts let us know. We'll watch for any updates tomorrow.
Click to expand...
High FC was a user error on my part.

I am currently using Taylor's TK-2006 for testing. I can post the rest of the details on my pool equipment later when I have a chance to confirm pool pump details. Good news is no loss of FC overnight and CC is 0 as of this morning. As for the comment on the gauge, it may be slightly off, but it is working properly. I normally monitor pressure by the return on the waterfalls.

On to the next problems. The DE I added yesterday morning returned through the jets. That's a familiar problem I've had that I'll have to inspect this weekend. Last time it happened it was a small crack in the manifold that eluded me for quite some time before I discovered it. And the Nautilus Dolphin cleaner I have appears to have quit zipping around the pool like usual as of yesterday and is moving at a snail's pace... and the Jacuzzi chlorinator I JUST bought and installed has a clogged check valve (best as I can tell), so there is that to fix as well. But these are all comments for other threads. I'm ready for a season where all I do is worry about water chemistry.
 

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