Featured High FC demand and #TeamRunHot.

[Mdragger88]

I let the 3 leaves sit on the pool floor for a week. There. I said it.

I can't see the floor unless I am right at the pool edge. Even then its usually too sparkly or windy to see. Ignorance is bliss.

For shame!!

 

[Mdragger88]

I call my minimum 10% of my cya - although I rarely run that low. A gaggle of teens or a summer pop up tornado can drop the fc quick so I prefer to be prepared.
In the heat of summer I aim for 10ppm or a little more with my cya about 80.
My ph stays pretty solid so going higher than that for a bit is no biggie.
My pool slammed itself between the swcg and the cover the past two seasons upon opening- thats what I call lazy

 

[Mdragger88]

Also, I vote we get badges- i am out of space on my signature to proudly display my allegiance to #TeamRunHot

 

[Newdude]

I only had time for the 'will I hit minimum in the next couple days' test today. The answer is no.

 

[AUSpool]

Now that i understand how it all fits together, I just use it to be lazy. I tested 14 FC today and thats a 3 or 4 day reserve with no SWG production. I turned the cell down and it will take a week or more to hit 10 FC, still allowing plenty of wiggle room for any curveballs.

It may be worthwhile to note that the 3-4ppm of FC over the recommended range is still protected from UV degradation. There is likely a slight increase in exposed FC but the loss would be negligible.

 

[AUSpool]

I fully subscribe to the logic of #teamrunhot. But do have a question - how do we test pH when above 10?
I don't worry about it much, as I keep my TA around 60, so it tends to be good anyway. But it would be nice to know once in a while.

A really good question.

Other then the pools in the harsh desert environments there is no reason not to run with a CyA of 70ppm which will give a bit of a buffer zone against the high FC interference.

The interference turns the sample a deep purple, more purple than the regular 8.0 color. If a pH of 7.8 or lower is expected it can be easy to see. I always run my FC first so I know what to expect.

There are buffers in the pH reagent that prevent interference from normal FC levels and these will also help to slow the effects of the interference all the way up to a FC of 15ppm. For samples that are just a little over the 10ppm FC it is possible that no interference is seen or the interference is delayed enough to get a reading if the test is done as normal. Don’t waste time, add the reagent, swirl to mix or invert and take the reading. And don’t go back to the treated sample.

If interference is expected using the full 5 drops of the pH reagent may help. One drop of r-0007 before the pH reagent as already suggested may help but no more than one drop and use the full five drops of the pH reagent. The wiki under pH currently suggests to avoid sodium thiosulfate in preference to a dilution. I haven’t tested that for myself but the cheaper kits used to pretreat pH samples as an extra dechlorination step before adding the phenol red but nowdays most are formulated with buffers and dechlorination agents. If all else fails a 50/50 dilution with distilled water.

 

[wolf party]

I aim for 15 FC at 60 CYA. I use a Hanna HI98103 probe for pH. If you keep the tip wet with some decently clean water (or KCl 3M if you don't use it much), the calibration lasts for quite a long time. I see lots of people happy to buy robots and all kinds of gadgets, but pH probes don't seem common - any reason for that?

Oh, on the why? Hot, sunny, swampy, rainy Florida = constantly changing parameters = ALGAE!

 

[PoolStored]

#TeamRunHot

Follow up analysis:

Day FC Demand
1 5.5
2 3
3 .75 (the .75 was averaged over 2 days of additions, likely day 3 was higher and day 4 normal)
4 .75
5 .6
6 .6

Took 3 days to return to normal demand. Filter was also more dirty than I thought, normal psi is 2.5, psi was 4.5. (Busy non-pool weekend). My guess is that I could have returned to lower demand sooner if I had backwashed the filter on day 1 or day 2.

 

[AUSpool]

Being proactive pays off. The average non-TFP owner will ask a FB group what the yellow mark around the pool edge is about two weeks after the event and without any test results. We get that when the wattles bloom.

 

[mariane]

I just found out keeping fc high and being a lazy pool owner was a thing.
I guess I just thought it's better to keep the fc on the high side above 10 to make it easier when I miss testing. Although I don't have a SWG but who's checking. lol
So I'm joining #TeamRunHot and #TeamLazy.

 

[sduda210]

Last weekend I freaked out because I pulled the solar cover off and it looked like I had an algae outbreak. I grabbed a water sample and threw a couple pounds of calhypo in. I tested the water that was grabbed before the calhypo addition and it was at 11ppm.

I vacuumed the pool and it was instantly clean. That night I passed the over night chlorine test. Lesson learned that extreme pollen can look like algae.