Ok...back again for another chastising...... I have always used the pucks and after lurking here and getting some good advice I changed everything. I got concerned about high CYA and changed from the pucks to liquid chorline, test with the dpd instead of strips, etc.
But....when I tested my pool for CYA with the whole dot thing, it tested off the charts. I did another one diluted in half, and it still tested off the scale......enough that I didn't even really bother to do it again....I just figure at the end of the year when I close it, I'll drain the water down below the returns and then when I refill it the CYA level should come down quite a bit and I can test it in the spring. Interestingly (here come the beatings), on a test strip it doesn't test over 100 (done many times).
So just to get through the last month of the season, I put 100 in the CYA in the pool math app, test with the DPD, and then add liquid chlorine. But even at 100 the chart and the app want the free chlorine way higher than I've ever kept it. In the past I've kept the FC around 3...since learning more about CYA I've been keeping it around 5.
So my question is...if the Taylor test is correct and the CYA is off the scale, at 3-5 FC which I've always kept it, shouldn't the water be....I don't know what the word is...vulnerable? Not sure what I'd see...murky waters, or algae, or something? The water is absolutely crystal clear perfect...at least as far as I or the kids can tell.
I was reading some threads on that bio-active CYA remover and remember someone saying that in order to work you had to keep the FC 3 or less. One user was afraid that with their high CYA levels that keeping their FC below 3 would turn the water green from all the algae....and if I recall perhaps they did it and it did......so if my CYA is off the charts, why is my pool not green at the same FC levels? Or am I the worst water tester in the history of mankind?
Thanks again for the site, the app, and the help....... (ok...let me have it)
But....when I tested my pool for CYA with the whole dot thing, it tested off the charts. I did another one diluted in half, and it still tested off the scale......enough that I didn't even really bother to do it again....I just figure at the end of the year when I close it, I'll drain the water down below the returns and then when I refill it the CYA level should come down quite a bit and I can test it in the spring. Interestingly (here come the beatings), on a test strip it doesn't test over 100 (done many times).
So just to get through the last month of the season, I put 100 in the CYA in the pool math app, test with the DPD, and then add liquid chlorine. But even at 100 the chart and the app want the free chlorine way higher than I've ever kept it. In the past I've kept the FC around 3...since learning more about CYA I've been keeping it around 5.
So my question is...if the Taylor test is correct and the CYA is off the scale, at 3-5 FC which I've always kept it, shouldn't the water be....I don't know what the word is...vulnerable? Not sure what I'd see...murky waters, or algae, or something? The water is absolutely crystal clear perfect...at least as far as I or the kids can tell.
I was reading some threads on that bio-active CYA remover and remember someone saying that in order to work you had to keep the FC 3 or less. One user was afraid that with their high CYA levels that keeping their FC below 3 would turn the water green from all the algae....and if I recall perhaps they did it and it did......so if my CYA is off the charts, why is my pool not green at the same FC levels? Or am I the worst water tester in the history of mankind?
Thanks again for the site, the app, and the help....... (ok...let me have it)
