High Copper levels in Bromine Pool

[dggizmo]

Hi Everyone,

I have a bromine pool and have recently noticed my daughters blond hair turning green. I have also developed a rash on my arms and back which I originally thought may have been from the sun. Now I'm thinking the issue is high copper levels. We took a sample to our local pool store and got the following results.
Br - 5.22 ppm
pH - 7.3
Hardness - 51 ppm
Alk - 109 ppm
Copper - 0.8 ppm
Iron - 0.1 ppm

They recommended using a bottle of Metal Free, then in a week a bottle of concentrated clarifier to remove the copper before addressing the low hardness and alkalinity. Will this get rid of the copper? Also, will I need to continue to use the Metal Free regularly to prevent copper or should this be a one time fix? We have never had any issues with chemicals before, the heater is 2 years old (electric), the liner was also replaced 2 years ago, so I'm not sure how the copper was introduced. We opened the pool about a month ago and they used 2 bottles of algaecide, could that be the culprit? One last question, is it safe to swim in 12 hours after adding the metal free? With 90 degree temperatures on the way I think there may be a mutiny at my house if I tell them no. I like to think I make the rules in my house but my 4 and 6 year old can be very persuasive lol.

Thanks for any advice,
Dan

 

[tim5055]

Well, a couple of things....

Yes, you will need to add a sequestrant to bind to the copper and stop turning hair green. But, the only thing the "concentrated clarifier " is going to remove is cash from your wallet. Until you exchange water, the copper will be there. I'm not sure what sequestrant to recommend for a bromne pool, but yes you have to keep using a maintencance dose to bind up the copper. @JoyfulNoise ---

Depending on the algecide, yes many have high levels of copper. But, I wouldn't rule out your heater. Do you know which specific algecide you used? Post a photo if possible.

Now, moving on... You have a vinyl lined pool. Your hardness is fine. Again, tehy are trying to sell you something you don't need.

Oh, wait - Alk (TA to us) TA of 109 (if it's correct) is actually high if you follow our guidelines. No need to "fix" that.

Now, my biggest advice - stop going to the pool store. Their only response it to sell you something.

I will tell you, it didn't turn green overnight and it will take time to clear. But, we can teach you how to get it sparkling and keep it that way for a lot less money than the pool store.

Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. Plus, the results of their "testing" is used to convince you that you need to buy things. Why do you think that testing is free?

But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF-100 Test Kit ™

 

[dggizmo]

Thank you very much for your advice! I was thinking most of my numbers were good, I keep on top of them and use the Taylor-K1003 kit to test. Based on the Taylor kit recommendations for levels I thought I was in good shape.
Unfortunately I do not know what kind of algaecide was used, I did not open the pool this year. Looks like I will just have to keep up with the sequesterant for now. My water is crystal clear, no staining on the pool, so I was surprised that we were having any issues.
So I guess I have another question, do I need algaecide? This is our 4th year owning the pool, I have never added it and I've never seen any algae at all. I have a company open/close the pool and I assumed the algaecide they used in the beginning and end of the year was sufficient since I've never seen any algae in the pool.

 

[tim5055]

Following our system, algecide is almost never recommended, even for opening and closing.

 

[JamesW]

If you're using a lot of bromine tablets, the DMH level is probably high.

DMH is analogous to cyanuric acid in a chlorine pool.

Bromine binds to the DMH, which leaves very little hypobromous acid for disinfection.

I would use a large tarp and replace all of the water in the pool with fresh water and begin on a chlorine regimen with a SWG.

Basically, you get a tarp that's large enough to line the entire pool with enough extra to overlap the deck by about 3 feet.

Put the tarp on the pool with 3 foot of overlap and the rest of the tarp on the water.

Begin filling on top of the tarp and draining from below the tarp until the tarp is lining the pool and there's no old water left.

Drain and fill at the same rate so that the water level stays constant.

The tarp should never be tight.

Take all safety measures to keep kids and pets away from the tarp.

Tarp size should be about L = pool length + (2 x depth) + 6 feet. W = pool width + (2 × depth) + 6 feet.

Do at your own risk and only do what you know you can do safely.

Note: I am not recommending that you do this. I am making a suggestion about something you can do if you feel like it's a good idea.

If you drain from under the tarp, be sure that the liner doesn't get damaged, like from a submersible pump sitting directly on the liner.