If you want it tonight. Try Lowe’s. You have to go in the pool section where they sell other chemicals and usually MA is there - at Lowe’s it was in the outside garden section.
Hi from Texas
- Thread starter Maldravus
- Start date
Thst tells you all you need to know, that they only owe you 10%. 15% makes them generous, and what most members report when using that brand, per their results.
The 31% at Ace hardware is either $10 or $12 area depending.
They just never certified that particular brand for pools. Muriatic acid is Muriatic acid.
Any of them work in a pinch, you just need double with the weak ones.
With a smaller pool it's less of a deal because it needs 2 cups of the 15% to lower you from 8 to 7.6. A gallon of the HD/Lowes kind will last 8 typical doses for you instead of 16. Two months later when it's available again, buy the strong one.
Ace is usually well stocked.
I guess I’ll go to Ace tomorrow. What is the Baume chemical on Pool Math? Making sure I know which version of acid to select.
This is the one at Breed and Company Ace hardware by you, for $10. It says right on the label because the strong ones brag about it. It also says it in the ingredients area.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,872
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
jdsaengine
Well-known member
My pool store was selling 31% on sale for $15, Ace down the street was selling Transchem 31% for $10. Thats why you stay out of the pool store
I’m heading to Ace now. Just took my daily tests and also did CYA again. Question - the saturation index on the Taylor Water Balance Calaculator, is that the same as CSI on Pool Math? I got 0.2 on that slider and Pool Math says 0.3.
- Jul 17, 2019
- 4,069
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Ace will be fine, but I've never seen Lowes or Home Depot not carrying MA around us. Mine has it on an end cap around the corner from the outside pool section, perhaps yours has it near the pool stuff but not in it too?
- Jul 17, 2019
- 4,069
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Your numbers look pretty good.
In Texas, our water naturally wants to be 7.8-8.2 so I would recommend letting it stay there. I've seen people drive themselves crazy trying to keep their ph 7.4-7.6 by adding acid multiple times a week. 7.8-8.0 is perfectly fine.
In my pool, I dose the MA to drop it to 7.4-7.6 once it gets above 8.0. In a matter of days it will jump back to 7.8, but I've seen it take weeks to get to 8.0 and even weeks/months to get above 8.0. If you manage your pH that way you will save yourself a lot of MA and sanity.
In Texas, our water naturally wants to be 7.8-8.2 so I would recommend letting it stay there. I've seen people drive themselves crazy trying to keep their ph 7.4-7.6 by adding acid multiple times a week. 7.8-8.0 is perfectly fine.
In my pool, I dose the MA to drop it to 7.4-7.6 once it gets above 8.0. In a matter of days it will jump back to 7.8, but I've seen it take weeks to get to 8.0 and even weeks/months to get above 8.0. If you manage your pH that way you will save yourself a lot of MA and sanity.
Thanks. If I follow that logic how then do I get my TA corrected? Following Pool Math it says to adjust PH. See attached.
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- Jul 17, 2019
- 4,069
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
My TA is currently 90 too and I don't plan on touching it until it gets to 100.
When it gets higher, my only adjustment is to drop my pH to 7.2 when I add MA. Over time the TA will reduce to where I want it and I go back to my pH management I mentioned above.
Edit - Since you expressed concerns over adding MA and your shell, follow the advice of dropping in increments of 0.4 until you get the hang of it. So adjust your pH by 0.4, let the water circulate for 30 mins, repeat until you get to the pH you want.
This makes sense and tracks with what others have told me (regarding my location and high PH). I will then plan on holding off a MA treatment until my PH or TA get to 7.8 or 100. Final question (I hope); I am having a real hard time accepting the fact I bought 50lbs worth of pucks which are basically useless since I’m swapping to LC. My question is; is it safe/viable/acceptable to use a very small amount of pucks (let’s say I keep only one in the chlorinator and have it dialed down to minimum) and supplement daily with LC? Of course I know to distribute the LC over a jet while the pumps run and not into the chlorinator. I’m just trying to formulate a plan to incorporate the pucks and if I can squeeze in a single one at all times without my cya raising, that seems like an acceptable plan to me. Thanks!
Each puck does below. There are no two ways about it.
However, there are plenty times you'll never know your CYA went up by 3ppm, so no harm in using one if the CYA can handle it.
The pucks also last forever when stored dry and cool so there's no rush to burn through them.
Or put them on FB marketplace and recoup most of your money back. They'll sell like hotcakes soon.
However, there are plenty times you'll never know your CYA went up by 3ppm, so no harm in using one if the CYA can handle it.
The pucks also last forever when stored dry and cool so there's no rush to burn through them.
Or put them on FB marketplace and recoup most of your money back. They'll sell like hotcakes soon.
- Jul 17, 2019
- 4,069
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You seem to be in a hurry to use your pucks. They do not go bad and you certainly will have opportunities to use them including vacations, any time life gets in the way of you testing and adding LC on a regular basis, and any time you need to add CYA (you will lose about 5 CYA per month in the summer months).
If you use the effects of adding feature in pool math, you can see that each 1 lb of pucks will add 5 CYA.
Just keep that in mind and you can use them when you need, just don't blindly constantly use them without checking your CYA and understanding the impacts of each puck you add. My guess is that 50 lbs will be about 3 years of pucks for you.
If you use the effects of adding feature in pool math, you can see that each 1 lb of pucks will add 5 CYA.
Just keep that in mind and you can use them when you need, just don't blindly constantly use them without checking your CYA and understanding the impacts of each puck you add. My guess is that 50 lbs will be about 3 years of pucks for you.
Thanks. Can you elaborate a bit? If it is certain that an 8oz puck will add 3ppm per puck how then will you sometimes not see an increase in CYA? Is that because CYA will deplete at an equal rate?
Because we rould up so a 31 to 39 is a 40.
If only filling to the 10s lines for testing because it makes it easier, a 32, 35 and 37 are all a 40.
Then as JJ said, rain will dilute the CYA and the sun will deplete some also, so it slowly drops and leaves you wiggle room for an occasional puck.
I am understanding more every day, so thanks for the replies. My plan of action for now is to continue testing and logging daily, keeping a single puck in the chlorinator and maintaining my FC at recommended levels using LC. I will test CYA biweekly. If my PH or TA increases to 8.0 or 100, I will perform an MA treatment.