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The PH test is not accurate if your FC is over 10. They usually tell people to test and adjust PH before SLAMming and then don't worry about it until after you're done with that.

Maybe your FC is higher than you think since you can't really tell exactly what it is with the color matching test...and it's messing up your ph test results..

I'm new so that's just my thought from all the reading I've been doing around here! I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will answer soon!
 
This is what 6PPM looks like to me. This was my OTO test block. I then measured it using my FAS-DPD to get the 6 ppm. The results of a 6 ppm FAS_DPD test look like water.

20130801_202335.jpg
 
Yes it is at 6. But ph has been through the roof! Added MA 3xs in 24 hours.
Edited: upon retest ph is 7.2 fc 3.0. Adjusted chlorine accordingly to bring back up to 6.
 
techguy said:
Where's the ChemGeek bat-signal?
Click to expand...
We, um, actually we had to remove it. See somebody thought it was a good idea to put it in the pool, keep it cool and just seems fitting, right? Well turns out algae was growing behind it, so we had to take it out until we pass the OCLT. Until then we just have to get duraleigh to fly around with a Chem Geek banner behind his plane.

Ok, on topic: When you get your kit run a full set of tests. I wonder if your TA is through the roof. Tablets would have hid the problem since they are acidic. First test results, it's very exciting! :goodjob:
 

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When you use the aqua chem test kit you was using, the ph doesnt read correctly when FC levels are above 5 not 10. I have one and its the same way. It even says in the instructions in the blue box it comes in. You can get an idea if your quick with it. Put the 5 drops in it, stick the cap on and invert a few times and read. Do this quickly and read the first shade you see. The longer you wait the darker the color will be and can turn purple in a matter of seconds.

Also with the aqua chem test kit the FC shade will go from light yellow (0.5ppm), to bright yellow (up to 10ppm) to school bus yellow (13ppm) to light orange(18ppm), to orange, to dark orange (25ppm) and so on. You can get a rough estimate of the FC levels by using that but realize those numbers are not dead on, just a guide.
 
Wait... what? I thought the CC had to be under 0.5? It has been rainy and cloudy the past few day and my pool is 2/3 shaded plus I had been keeping the FC pretty high until my kit arrived. Let me get motivated and run some more tests.

Here's what I got this a.m.-
FC-3.5
CC-0.4
PH-7.0
 
Sorry, My BAD... I forgot you were using the large sample and I was a little foggy last night. If you use the 10ml sample, it's one drop to get to 0.5CC. You only really need to use the 10ml sample for FC measurements. Save on drops... and time.

So, was it after sunset last night when you got your 5.4FC? Or was the sun still up and on the pool?
 
OK, so you had 1.9 FC loss over night so this indicates you should SLAM is a little more. How does the water look? It is perfectly clear? Can you see the seams on the floor and the little fabric cross hatch that seems common in Intex style pools??

Adding chlorine is going to make your PH rise a little... that's OK.
 
Then you need to bring your FC up to the full SLAM level for your 30CYA and keep it there until it clears.

My avatar is what my water looks like when it's clean. That is a penny on the floor of my pool, with 4 feet of water. When you get done, yours will look the same.
 

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