Pour in deep end, near a return so it gets distributed quickly - really, really try not to splash any on you - so get your pouring container as close to (but not in) the water as possible so it can't splash back.
Don't get your face too close to it. It is an inhalation risk and with a AG pool, it can be right in your face.
Yes, but you will end up adding the bleach anyway 
I'd grab a sample (first), add the bleach (second) and then do the ph test inside where it isn't 8 million degrees. You can always adjust your pH again if necessary (but you probably wont need to right away since they used the pool calculator.).
edited for bad info...makes sense Techguy - my pool costs *just a little* more than my jeans ;-)
I'd grab a sample (first), add the bleach (second) and then do the ph test inside where it isn't 8 million degrees. You can always adjust your pH again if necessary (but you probably wont need to right away since they used the pool calculator.).
edited for bad info...makes sense Techguy - my pool costs *just a little* more than my jeans ;-)
NO, Snazzy we don't throw a bottle of bleach into a pool and let it dissipate. If you had a vinyl liner pool, you risk damaging /bleaching your liner. It can cause issue with gunnite also.
We pour the liquids into the pool slowly, in a stream less than a pencil in diameter, in front of a return with the pump running.
We pour the liquids into the pool slowly, in a stream less than a pencil in diameter, in front of a return with the pump running.
As to the question about the re-testing, you can if you would like but it should be fine and you are ready to add your bleach.
Stay on top of your filter pressure - as the bleach kills off the algae it will come out in your filter. Check your chlorine levels every so often and add more bleach as it goes down. Be very patient...
Looks like already green algae is rising to the top of the pool. I am skimming it as I go along the way, so it must be doing its job! Just rinsed the filter, it was GREEN. About how often will I need to add more bleach? Until my kit arrives I can only test up to 5ppm. And I am assumming I shouldn't throw on the bikini just yet!!
No idea about the timing of the bleach - it depends on the amount of debris/algae in your pool. In the mean time, I'd never let the color get below the max on your test kit. It really, really makes a difference to have the real testing chemicals - you will appreciate it when they come. Then you just plug your numbers into the pool calculator and it tells you what to do - very, very nice. Also, it isn't guessing on the color - I hate that - with the better stuff it is either pink or it is not and you count the drops - MUCH nicer. Look up the term SLAM in the search - this is what you need to be doing.
While reading about SLAMing the pool it says to "brush daily" I only have a hand brush. Is it safe for me to get in there and brush the sides?
It is safe to be in the pool when your FC is below shock level but above minimum based on your CYA. That will be hard to judge without the proper test kit.
As long as the FCis less than you shock level, you are good to get it. With your test, this is likely a light orange color. I would not "swim" until you can clearly see the bottom.
As to when to add more bleach? I would add more as son as you see the FC level has gone down in your tester. Did you happen to look at what color the OTO was when you added the bleach? Orange? I would add anytime the OTO test shows a "yellow" color and not an orange color. Maybe add 1/2 gallon or so when it gets close to 5FC.
You color looks like it will go green/grey/whitish blue/blue/cloudy blue to clear. These are good steps in the process and filtering it very important as this is the goal. Kill with algae/clear with filter.
As to when to add more bleach? I would add more as son as you see the FC level has gone down in your tester. Did you happen to look at what color the OTO was when you added the bleach? Orange? I would add anytime the OTO test shows a "yellow" color and not an orange color. Maybe add 1/2 gallon or so when it gets close to 5FC.
You color looks like it will go green/grey/whitish blue/blue/cloudy blue to clear. These are good steps in the process and filtering it very important as this is the goal. Kill with algae/clear with filter.
Whoa. Time out. OTO? What's that? And I'm pretty sure my pool is at shock level after adding 136 oz of bleach... my test kit was reading about 2 FC before adding bleach... in other words y'all just lost me lol
I would stop just where you're at. At this point you are just dumping in stuff hoping to clear it up......not what the BBB is about. Based on your photo your pool should not get more green, but you'll take forever to clear it up at this point. A kit is on it's way......I would go inside and enjoy a cold beverage. Many things at this point COULD happen......
1. your CYA could be zero (doubt it) and your running a risk of damaging the liner
2. Your CYA could be 100+, and you're dumping in this bleach......just to end up draining it after you find out you have a high CYA level
3. You're going to drive yourself nuts praying that something works
A true test kit should be there very soon.....just hold the chlorine at that color you're at now.
1. your CYA could be zero (doubt it) and your running a risk of damaging the liner
2. Your CYA could be 100+, and you're dumping in this bleach......just to end up draining it after you find out you have a high CYA level
3. You're going to drive yourself nuts praying that something works
A true test kit should be there very soon.....just hold the chlorine at that color you're at now.
The test you are showing with the yellow block is an OTO test. This is type of indicator chemical you are using.
a quick goggle found this about this test and other common ones we discuss (with my additions)
OTO (or OT): Abbreviation for the chemical reagent orthotolidine originally used for determining chlorine levels. OTO can only measure the total chlorine level and turns the pool water yellow upon addition. (teh test block is marked to 5PPM, but the colors shown far higher but are less accurate the further the get above 10PPM)
DPD: Abbreviation for the chemical reagent N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine that is used in drop tests to determine both total and free chlorine levels. The pool water sample turns pink upon addition of DPD. (This is the test that is limited to 5PPM)
DPD-FAS: This term refers to a variation of a DPD test that uses titration to determine the measure of free and combined chlorine down to 0.2ppm. FAS, ferrous ammonium sulfate, is the reagent added by titration until the solution changes from pink to colorless signaling the endpoint of the reaction. ()this is the test in the TF kits, it is accurate to 50PPM and can differentiate between FC and CC, not just TC like the other two tests)
Phenol Red: The most common reagent used to determine pH, phenol red works on a range from 6.8-8.2.
a quick goggle found this about this test and other common ones we discuss (with my additions)
OTO (or OT): Abbreviation for the chemical reagent orthotolidine originally used for determining chlorine levels. OTO can only measure the total chlorine level and turns the pool water yellow upon addition. (teh test block is marked to 5PPM, but the colors shown far higher but are less accurate the further the get above 10PPM)
DPD: Abbreviation for the chemical reagent N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine that is used in drop tests to determine both total and free chlorine levels. The pool water sample turns pink upon addition of DPD. (This is the test that is limited to 5PPM)
DPD-FAS: This term refers to a variation of a DPD test that uses titration to determine the measure of free and combined chlorine down to 0.2ppm. FAS, ferrous ammonium sulfate, is the reagent added by titration until the solution changes from pink to colorless signaling the endpoint of the reaction. ()this is the test in the TF kits, it is accurate to 50PPM and can differentiate between FC and CC, not just TC like the other two tests)
Phenol Red: The most common reagent used to determine pH, phenol red works on a range from 6.8-8.2.
I agree with Lee, lets wait until you get your kit. It should be there really quick. You made some progress but it's not going to be instant and we don't want to damage your pool, or you.
You could read the articles in pool school with the goal of understanding how CYA effects your chlorine needs. This is one concept that makes the rest of the BBB method work. It's also the one thing most stores do NOT understand.
You could read the articles in pool school with the goal of understanding how CYA effects your chlorine needs. This is one concept that makes the rest of the BBB method work. It's also the one thing most stores do NOT understand.