Help with what to add

[Jtyler]

I am not sure what I need to add. What does 1 cup “by volume” of the acid mean? Is that 1 cup or 1 cup per so many gallons?

Also- any other advice given the other numbers? We have added UV shield every week but the CA number isn’t getting much higher.
Obviously there is something wrong with our SWG so I need to add chlorine but wasn’t sure about the other numbers in combination.

 

[proavia]

You need to add liquid chlorine ASAP.
Add 5ppm liquid chlorine - use PoolMath to compute the amount needed.

By volume is usually a liquid measure. By weight is usually a dry measure.
Add 8 oz by volume means add 8 oz of liquid (1 cup).

How are you testing your water?

Chlorine FIRST - everything else can wait.

 

[Jtyler]

You need to add liquid chlorine ASAP.
Add 5ppm liquid chlorine - use PoolMath to compute the amount needed.

By volume is usually a liquid measure. By weight is usually a dry measure.
Add 8 oz by volume means add 8 oz of liquid (1 cup).

How are you testing your water?

Chlorine FIRST - everything else can wait.

We have the TFP- Pro test kit; that’s what I am using.
And just to clarify, the app already did the math for my pool size? So I only need to add the amount it says?
And yes, adding the liquid chlorine now; just wasn’t sure what to do with the rest.

 

[proavia]

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing help specific to your pool without needing to ask you for this info each time.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

If you set up PoolMath correctly, the Effects of Adding section will help determine the needed amounts.
For 22,000 gallons, using 10% liquid chlorine, 1 gallon will raise your FC by 4.5

 

[proavia]

What is this "UV Shield" stuff you added?
EDIT: looks like a high priced version of granular cyanuric acid (stabilizer).
When did you add it and how did you add it?

What does the pool water look like?

 

[Jtyler]

What is this "UV Shield" stuff you added?
EDIT: looks like a high priced version of granular cyanuric acid (stabilizer).
When did you add it and how did you add it?

What does the pool water look like?

The pool looks good. Maybe starting to get ever so slightly cloudy. We added it with a sock hanging at the return jet and shook it around the pool a little every hour or so to loosen it up until dissolved.
It’s what we had from the pool company before we learned about TFP. Would it be ok to buy what the sell at Walmart for the Cyanuric Acid?

 

[proavia]

Walmart HTH or Clorox brand has worked for me in the past.
If you have a BJs or Ocean State Job Lot nearby, check there too.

So what is your CYA level now?
What is your FC level?

 

[Mdragger88]

Take a picture of your swg and we can help you identify it.
For now, don’t add any more cya until you do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels
FC/CYA Levels.
It is possible that there’s nothing wrong with your swg but your cya was very low & it couldn’t keep up allowing algae to take hold. A swg can’t overcome an algae problem but it can help mask one for a little while. So if there’s algae you must deal with that first and then troubleshoot the swg. This is easier to do at a lower cya.
Are you keeping logs in poolmath/have a subscription?
If so, turn on sharing in the settings (at the bottom) & we can see them to help you.

 

[Jtyler]

Take a picture of your swg and we can help you identify it.
For now, don’t add any more cya until you do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels
FC/CYA Levels.
It is possible that there’s nothing wrong with your swg but your cya was very low & it couldn’t keep up allowing algae to take hold. A swg can’t overcome an algae problem but it can help mask one for a little while. So if there’s algae you must deal with that first and then troubleshoot the swg. This is easier to do at a lower cya.
Are you keeping logs in poolmath/have a subscription?
If so, turn on sharing in the settings (at the bottom) & we can see them to help you.
View attachment 509837

I don’t have this option in my poolmath app. I only have the unique link option.

 

[Jtyler]

Walmart HTH or Clorox brand has worked for me in the past.
If you have a BJs or Ocean State Job Lot nearby, check there too.

So what is your CYA level now?
What is your FC level?

CYA is unchanged

Walmart HTH or Clorox brand has worked for me in the past.
If you have a BJs or Ocean State Job Lot nearby, check there too.

So what is your CYA level now?
What is your FC level?

my chlorine is gone. Ph is down to 7.5.
I had an issue with algae several weeks ago so I guess I will SLAM the pool (again).
I “think” my CYA is 40? Thoughts based on pictures?

 

[proavia]

Based on your pics, I'd call CYA at 40.
You can see the dot at 40, but not at 30 - and we round up.... so 40.

 

[duraleigh]

Chlorine FIRST - everything else can wait.

NEVER underestimate the importance of adequate chlorine. If our newbies would learn that first, there would be a LOT more crystal clear pools!

Nice post, Proavia!

 

[Mdragger88]

I don’t have this option in my poolmath app. I only have the unique link option.

You must be sure you’re logged into poolmath with the same username & password as your tfp profile.
If you accidentally created another account @Leebo can get them merged

 

[Mdragger88]

Raise your fc to target range for your cya Asap & do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm or deny an algae problem.
the water in your picture looks pretty good so maybe you’re catching it early.

 

[Jtyler]

Raise your fc to target range for your cya Asap & do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm or deny an algae problem.
the water in your picture looks pretty good so maybe you’re catching it early.

That’s what I did yesterday. My FC was what I intended @10ppm around 7pm and this morning it was zero. I did a close inspection and the yellow algae we had at the beginning of the summer is back. I noticed a little discoloration in a few corners so keeping FC as close to 14ppm as I can.

 

[Jtyler]

Based on your pics, I'd call CYA at 40.
You can see the dot at 40, but not at 30 - and we round up.... so 40.

Thank you!

 

[Mdragger88]

That’s what I did yesterday. My FC was what I intended @10ppm around 7pm and this morning it was zero. I did a close inspection and the yellow algae we had at the beginning of the summer is back. I noticed a little discoloration in a few corners so keeping FC as close to 14ppm as I can.

10-4
Slam level for cya of 40 is 16ppm


Be sure you are thorough with the
SLAM Process this time around.

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

After passing ALL 3 end of slam criteria:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

You should then proceed to the Mustard Algae protocol for 24hrs if you indeed suspect you have mustard algae.

Mustard Algae

Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.

www.google.com

After this you may want to maintain MA minimum for some time.

 

[Jtyler]

10-4
Slam level for cya of 40 is 16ppm
View attachment 510113

Be sure you are thorough with the
SLAM Process this time around.

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

After passing ALL 3 end of slam criteria:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
The water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

You should then proceed to the Mustard Algae protocol for 24hrs if you indeed suspect you have mustard algae.

Mustard Algae

Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.

www.google.com

After this you may want to maintain MA minimum for some time

 

[Jtyler]

Ok. I think I am ready for the next steps. Attached is my log. My pool looks good.
So according to the Mustard Algae protocol, I now need to raise my Chlorine to 24ppm for 24 hours?

 

[Mdragger88]

Looks like you passed the oclt - hard to tell clarity from the pic without something in the water but if you’re crystal clear with no algae (dead or alive) then it’s time for MA protocol! Yup - 24ppm for 24 hours- throw all your stuff in there & let it stew a bit too (floats, hoses, poles etc.) even the dolphin. Scrub everything (walls/crannies)