Help with readings...clear water...low FC...0 CC

Randrx2

Bronze Supporter
Dec 13, 2018
436
Gallatin, TN
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Hello all. I am new to the forum. This is my first question.

I believe in taking care of the pool myself because I have seen what a pool service does (we rented a house and they were there once a week for about 10 mins). I have been reading a lot before posting here. The information is great. However, I am perplexed with this problem and cannot find a solution or similar problem on the forum (maybe I need to look harder).

I have been waiting to post here until I received my FAS-DPD test kit. I thought I was reading the color chart wrong on the Taylor K-2005 with the chlorine results I have been getting.

My pool is fairly new, a little over 2 months old. I am obsessed with testing the water (I like data). A couple of weeks ago, I had seen the water turn slightly hazy after a weekend with a lot of swimmers and hot weather and tested and got low FC numbers (0-1 ppm). I was running the SWG at about 40% for 10 hours a day. I then cranked it up to 100% for 14 hours a day. However, I still am getting the numbers below. The water is clear. Maybe a slight haze. But I can clearly see the bottom and the little flecks in the plaster. I have added bleach to bring up numbers but they don't ever come up to the value I would expect (i.e. 5 PPM after adding a gallon).

I also wanted to have the salt cell checked, but they will charge $95 if it is NOT a cell issue, but a chemical issue. They said to test for phosphates and nitrates, but after reading here, that seems like a BS answer. I see bubbles at the returns, but the level is not that high coming from there. But I think that is expected since I calculated the FC produced at about 0.5 ppm per hour.

I have unofficially done an overnight test. Without the filter or SWG running overnight, my FC in the morning is at 0 to 0.5 ppm after being at 2 ppm the night before.

I thought I was bleaching out the numbers, so I did the dilution and got the same. I thought my regents were bad, so that is why I waited to post here until I got the FAS-DPD test kit (which is super easy to use, wow!).

Anyway, I think I need to SLAM, but wanted a second opinion.

Here are my numbers:

FC = 2 ppm
CC = 0 ppm
Salt = 3800 ppm (recommended is 3600)
pH = 7.4
Alkalinity = 60 ppm
CYA = 60
CH = 220 ppm

So based on CYA, FC should be at least 4 ppm. I can't get there. I also think TA needs to come up to 70 and CYA up to 75, but I want to hold off until I hear from the group.

Pool is in full sun from 8AM to 8PM. The pool is screened in. Water temp is from 85-89F.

Thanks for reading through my rambling. I hope someone can help, because I am racking my brain trying to figure this out.

Thank you.
 

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Welcome to the forum!
Great job on getting a quality test kit.
I believe you need to follow the SLAM Process. You can do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight if you wish to confirm that, just be sure the SWCG is off and the pump is on during it.

Or, start the SLAM process now.
 
Are you just trying to use the SWG alone to get up to your needed levels? Maybe a boost with some liquid chlorine to get it up to where it should be to help the SWG maintain levels would be best.
 
I did try and boost it with liquid bleach, but the levels never stayed high. Based on my calculations, I should be producing 7 ppm of FC each day with the SWG.

Is it possible my FC usage is that high with full sun and high temps?

Could I have a borderline algae issue?

I plan to SLAM tonight and see what happens.

Thanks.
 
I am afraid you are going to be right about the algae.

Now that I have a proper test kit, I am going to do a proper OCLT tonight first to confirm.

Wife is nervous about me doing the SLAM because we have a boy who can’t stay out of the water! She is the one who has to tell him all day he can’t go in. But I know in the long run it will be easier to control now then when it turns.
 
From your initial statement it looks like you failed OCLT if your numbers are accurate.
I would start SLAM immediately. The sooner you start, the quicker it goes.
Remember, you can safely use your pool as long as FC don't go over SLAM level for your CYA.
 
OK, its started! Got it to 26 ppm (based on 5ml water sample 1ppm per drop). Best I can do is check it in the morning and feed it as necessary. I will keep you posted.
 
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Wish I would have started earlier in evening.

2330: Brought the FC to 26
0500: FC was at 15
0700: Added Chlorine and brought FC to 28

CC level never registered above 0.5. The sample barely turned pink if at all and 1 drop cleared it up.

I will try and check back throughout the day during work. But I will start earlier tonight as soon as sun drops behind houses. Probably will need to vacuum before starting tonight also.

I was surprised it dropped over 10 ppm in a short amount of time.
 
Last edited:
Another test at 1030. FC=32, CC=0 to 0.5.

Probably overshot the chlorine this morning when I poured in hoping to get a little extra over 26 ppm to ride out the long duration between tests.

Hopefully it will stay over 26 ppm until this evening and I can do another overnight test.
 
As far as the kid swimming, the pool is safe to swim in up to SLAM levels(up to FC 24 for you).

Also, you mentioned checking the SWG cell to make sure its working(which it probably is). My local pool store tests my cell for free if I take it to them. You could check some pool stores in your area to see if they would do the same. Just have your guard up when you go in and don't fall for any of their sales pitches. Have the cell tested and walk out!
 
False alarm. Came home for lunch to check reading. It is at 17 ppm. The 32 reading was from wife. It was her first time testing with me describing how over the phone. When I got home she showed me how she did it and she said she held bottle sideways for drops. I never thought that would make a difference!

There are no bad students, just bad teachers!

Another bottle of chlorine and back to work!
 
Still adding Chlorine tonight as there is still loss each hour.

Question, if no one is swimming in the water, can I add more chlorine to get over the suggested SLAM level of 26 ppm to carry me through the night and the workday when I cannot test? For example, can I boost it up to 35ppm if I am expecting a 10 ppm loss overnight or during the day?

Thanks in advance.
 
Raising FC above SLAM level is unnecessary and will not effectively change the process. It can harm finishes and during the day burn off due to UV very rapidly.
 
Getting closer!

Brushed, vacuumed, and cleaned filter last night.

FC was at 27 ppm last night and 23 ppm this morning. Brought up the FC before heading to work.

One thing I noticed this morning with pool light on is that there is not that little bit of haze and I see significantly less “floaties” or particles in the water.

I thought my water looked “clear” before but now I see what “clear” truly is.

Hoping that the overnight test tonight is the good one!
 
Came home at lunch and thank goodness the mailman was delivering my 16 oz. bottle of Taylor R-0871-E! Filled up my bottle and did a test and FC is at 26 ppm. Yay, I don't need to add any chlorine! I will let the sun do its thing this afternoon and check my levels after sundown and see what happens overnight. Two out of the three criteria met so far!

Question: Depending on levels this evening (for example, if FC is at 20 ppm), would you recommend bringing it up to SLAM level, or just do the overnight test?

Thank you.
 
Question: Depending on levels this evening (for example, if FC is at 20 ppm), would you recommend bringing it up to SLAM level, or just do the overnight test?
If pool water is clear (no dead algae) then leave FC as tested and do OCLT
 

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