Help with plumbing

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fiddlyd

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Aug 16, 2011
30
Hi all.
So I just upgraded all my equipment except heater..
new equipment are:
Pentair vs pump
Pentair intelichlor
Cartridge filter 525 sqft
...old heater is a oil burner it’s works great so it stays until it breaks.
Problem is flow... piping from pool and back is 1.5”... i adapted to 2” for above ground plumbing for equipment..the heater has 1 1/4” piping in and out... after boiler I installed a flowis meter ... at full pump speed 3450rpm I’m getting 25 gpm... my intellichlor needs 2300 rpm to work... at 2300 rpm I’m getting 20gpm... pool is 20000 gals.. at this rate I will need 16 hrs to turn pool over at 2300 rpm.. way to long.... my question is is the heater piping of 1 1/4” then going to 2” right after causing this low flow?? If so what are you opinions and options???

Thank you guys
 
The heater itself is the likely cause for the restriction. You would benefit from a heater bypass or replacing the heater altogether. Is that something you can easily plumb in?

I also regret to inform you that the sweep elbows used on the plumbing are not rated for pressure.

Pool volume turnovers have been proven to be unimportant
 
bdavis466 said:
The heater itself is the likely cause for the restriction. You would benefit from a heater bypass or replacing the heater altogether. Is that something you can easily plumb in?

I also regret to inform you that the sweep elbows used on the plumbing are not rated for pressure.

Pool volume turnovers have been proven to be unimportant
Click to expand...
Yes i know about the sweep elbows I had no choice ...what do you mean about the turnovers?
 
You dont need to turn the water in a pool it's a myth. You can get sweep sch40 or any fitting you need at a real plumbing supply or well pump distributor. You need to make a bypass line where some water goes past heater and some thru it. You can put a 3way valve and che k valve and completely bypass when you aren't using it. The piping is choking you off
 
fid,

Does it really take 2300 RPM to close your SWCG's flow switch, or are you just turning up the RPMs until your flow meter reads 20 GPM???

My cell's flow switch closes at about 1100 RPM and I run my pump at 1200 most of the time.. I have no clue what the GPM is at that speed as it makes zero difference to me..

I agree with everyone else.. your problem is the tiny little pipes going into your heater.. I too suggest that you install a heater by-pass valve..

While the 90 degree sweeps that you have are not ideal, unless you did a really bad job of gluing them up, it is unlikely that they will be a problem..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
fid,

Does it really take 2300 RPM to close your SWCG's flow switch, or are you just turning up the RPMs until your flow meter reads 20 GPM???

My cell's flow switch closes at about 1100 RPM and I run my pump at 1200 most of the time.. I have no clue what the GPM is at that speed as it makes zero difference to me..

Anything less than 2300 rpm I get a low flow indicator from swcg shutting it down
Click to expand...
 
Look like I screwed up the plumbing for heater... just found the manual... so back to cutting and glueing.. after putting this bypass on you guys think I will get better flow?78926FD9-7524-4F14-A4F0-23765684043B.jpeg
 

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Ok, the heater looks like it requires 12 gpm. So, that's very restrictive. You definitely need the bypass.

Also, I was thinking about the sticker on the front of the pump if you get a chance to check that.
 
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