Help with Circupool RJ45+

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O

opto_isolator

0
Jul 7, 2014
36
orlando fl
I instaslled a Circupool RJ45+ about a month or so ago. I am having issues with it making chlorine. It's installed correctly - per the manual, but for some reason it is not making chlorine. My pool is about 11,000 gallons (meaning the R45 should be putting out tons of chlorine for a pool this size). It's set to turn on at 10AM and turn off around 6PM. My pump runs at low speed (1200 RPM) starting at 10AM to 4PM, then runs high speed (2600 RPM) from 4PM to 6PM. When the SWG turns on, the generate light is illuminated meaning it is supposed to be generating chlorine.

I just went out and checked it today after checking the free chlorine in my pool at 12:30, and the display was dim (like it was in sleep mode), but the generate light was not on. Because I was having issues with it doing the same thing a few days ago, it was set to 75%. I just turned it to max today. The cell voltage shows about 16v and the cell current was showing negative 1.7A (I've never been able to get it to show a positive value).

The only easy thing that I can think of is that the flow is too low for the cell to generate any chlorine - but I've never seen the light flashing unless I've turned it on when the pump wasn't running (indicating no flow).
 
Low speed fo 1200 rpm should be fine, so I don't think that's the issue. You should almost never need to run your unit at 75% or higher for your size pool. But the negative voltage is something that caught me eye. Just makes me wonder about the module. You didn't post an FC test comparison for us to see. That might help so readers can compare your FC levels with SWG calculators to see how the SWG is doing. Where did you get your 45+?
 
Opto,

I have an RJ45+ as well. My unit has never went dim "like it was in sleep mode". It does alternate current from positive to negative to self-clean the cell. Also when it is producing chlorine not only is the generator light on, but you should be able to see bubbles generated in the SWG cell (being clear it is cool to watch). If you do not have enough water flow, your No Flow light will blink red indicating the generator is no longer producing chlorine.

I would basically call who you got it from because the unit going dim is a fault. Something is definitely wrong.
 
I called them after I posted. They ran though some things and said everythind sounded correct - told me to get some Phosphate remover.....I know people's thoughts on that here. Regardless I did buy some.

Anyhow - I am still having issues, but I am wondering if it's due to rain. I checked my FC levels again this morning and they were very low. I added liquid chlorine to the water to bring them back up. I have been pressing the max CL button the last few days, because we had some heavy rain a few days ago, but it seems as of the SWG is not keeping up.

I'm going to keep monitoring it but does anyone with a SWG have to do anything after a heavy rain or should the system be able to handle it?
 
Some things that caught my eye about this discussion that may noteworthy:
- How are you testing? I don't see a test kit in your signature.
- What is your CYA level? In fact, perhaps post a full set of results.
- Your Poolmath logs are not visible on your profile name. You can enable Poolmath Logs for others to see.
 
Texas Splash said:
Some things that caught my eye about this discussion that may noteworthy:
- How are you testing? I don't see a test kit in your signature.
- What is your CYA level? In fact, perhaps post a full set of results.
- Your Poolmath logs are not visible on your profile name. You can enable Poolmath Logs for others to see.
Click to expand...

Hi I have a Taylor test kit. The poweder is brand new. The CYA is around 70, as per recommended by the forum. I haven't been logging anything in the app or the forum.
 
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Hey Opto, I also have the RJ45+ and did have some challenges at startup, but now I LOVE the RJ45+
Quick observations (as others have mentioned), for us to help you need to post your chemical readings.
Quick tip; don't trust the salt reading from your RJ45+ display. Get the Taylor salt test kit and trust those numbers. Not a big deal as once your salt measurement is correct it ain't gonna change very much for most pools. As long as the RJ4+ sees the minimum salt value it will operate correctly. I (and others) will be glad to share our experiences but just need some basic info to assist. I just went throught this exact process a few months ago at the beginning of the season. It really is pretty easy and you will love that RJ45+ once up and running correctly.
Jon
 
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