Help with algae, chemistry problem?

wilwn

New member
Sep 13, 2024
3
Orange County, California
Hi everyone, I started maintaining my pool a few weeks ago completely new to this after letting go of my pool guy.
Started getting algae about 2 weeks ago, mostly along the sides, now I’m seeing it on the bottom.
Brushed it down, and I’ve been making sure my FC is between 8-10. I’ve only been using liquid chlorine. pH 7.6-8.0.
My cya is between 70-80. From what I’ve been reading, that’s on the higher side, which why I’ve been only using liquid chlorine. Is it cause cya is too high?
The algae comes back a few days later.
What am I doing wrong? Appreciate any advice you all can give me!
 
Hi everyone, I started maintaining my pool a few weeks ago completely new to this after letting go of my pool guy.
Started getting algae about 2 weeks ago, mostly along the sides, now I’m seeing it on the bottom.
Brushed it down, and I’ve been making sure my FC is between 8-10. I’ve only been using liquid chlorine. pH 7.6-8.0.
My cya is between 70-80. From what I’ve been reading, that’s on the higher side, which why I’ve been only using liquid chlorine. Is it cause cya is too high?
The algae comes back a few days later.
What am I doing wrong? Appreciate any advice you all can give me!
Post some test results over the past couple weeks and someone can check and advise. But if you have algae, it’s a lack of chlorine problem. The SLAM process is what gets rid of it.
Check here for instructions:
 
First, you need a GOOD test kit. Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared
I strongly, strongly recommend just getting the TFPro from TFtestkits.net. Amazon orders can be sketchy and have outdated items, ordering from Taylor can be really slow. While tftestkits is a private business, they are put together to meet what we recommend here, are very fresh, and ship relatively quickly.

NEVER trust pool store tests, or test strips!


Since I'm too lazy to retype, here is a reply about the CYA/FC relationship (and chart) that I just posted earlier today:
pH rising out of control

With that high of a CYA, to defeat the algae you need to get your FC up to 31. That will be a LOT of liquid, and will take many days (or sometimes weeks, if really bad) to knock it all out.
The only way to lower CYA is to replace water, which we realize might be a major challenge in your part of the country.

While waiting for your test kit, keep the Cl where you have been, or a couple of points higher, so that algae doesn't keep getting worse.
 
First, you need a GOOD test kit. Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared
I strongly, strongly recommend just getting the TFPro from TFtestkits.net. Amazon orders can be sketchy and have outdated items, ordering from Taylor can be really slow. While tftestkits is a private business, they are put together to meet what we recommend here, are very fresh, and ship relatively quickly.

NEVER trust pool store tests, or test strips!


Since I'm too lazy to retype, here is a reply about the CYA/FC relationship (and chart) that I just posted earlier today:
pH rising out of control

With that high of a CYA, to defeat the algae you need to get your FC up to 31. That will be a LOT of liquid, and will take many days (or sometimes weeks, if really bad) to knock it all out.
The only way to lower CYA is to replace water, which we realize might be a major challenge in your part of the country.

While waiting for your test kit, keep the Cl where you have been, or a couple of points higher, so that algae doesn't keep getting worse.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ve been mostly following the pool school recommendations. I’ve been using the Taylor 2005 test kit. How do I decide to use SLAM vs raising the CI beyond 10?

I’ve attached photos for reference.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1996.jpeg
    IMG_1996.jpeg
    467.7 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_1995.jpeg
    IMG_1995.jpeg
    451.1 KB · Views: 11
Thanks for the feedback. I’ve been mostly following the pool school recommendations. I’ve been using the Taylor 2005 test kit. How do I decide to use SLAM vs raising the CI beyond 10?

I’ve attached photos for reference.
You have to have a FAS/DPD test to measure FC properly above 10ppm. Please go to this link for upgraded FC testing from a K2005 kit to a K2006 kit. You can purchase the SLAM option as well as it has more volume of reagents to accomplish more testing of FC when in SLAM mode.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pjt
Here are TFP results that are achieved with a fraction of the cost, time, and effort:


Hopefully that convinces you to adopt TFP methods.

What am I doing wrong? Appreciate any advice you all can give me!
After reading the essentials, you need to perform the SLAM process. Follow it like a checklist. You must get a FAS-DPD chlorine test.




I would also highly recommend getting a SpeedStir.


 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: HermanTX
Here are TFP results that are achieved with a fraction of the cost, time, and effort:


Hopefully that convinces you to adopt TFP methods.


After reading the essentials, you need to perform the SLAM process. Follow it like a checklist. You must get a FAS-DPD chlorine test.




I would also highly recommend getting a SpeedStir.


I’ve been following TFP principles, read through basics. Is the general consensus that I need to do SLAM?
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.