Help, valve leaking while pool is winterized/closed

Captchaos

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Bronze Supporter
Jul 18, 2017
314
Maryland
I don't go out back much this time of year but I noticed today that one of my valves is leaking a steady drip, enough for the ground to be wet. Unfortunately the pool is winterized and I have the valve closed to keep the water out of the pumps, but I don't know how I'm going to be able to fix this without a huge mess because this line leads to my floor drains. What can I do to rectify this?
 
What is the water level in your pool relative to the equipment pad and valves.

I don’t see how pool water would get up the line to the valve level from the main drain.
 
The pool is elevated above the equipment pad so it's a good bit higher, probably 4-5' or so.

That would do it and why you have flow up the pipe. You need to take some special precautions in winterizing your pipes.
 
Thanks, I am aware of that. I use a Cyclone blower and air lock the valve, but again, the valve seems to have failed and is leaking. I am interested to find out if there are any suggestions on how to mitigate this short of replacing the valve entirely and re-winterizing the pool. I can’t think of a reasonable way of pulling this valve apart and checking it since water will immediately rush out since it’s connected to the floor drains.
 
I think spring is coming in a few weeks. If you have not had damage yet then you are past the danger zone.

The question is what to do differently for next year.
 
Turns out I did have damage and the valve housing and pipe just below the valve were cracked due to freezing. I attempted to replace the valve and associated piping but water kept washing away the primer and PVC glue so I could not keep an air tight lock. I wound up just using the Cyclone to blow air back into the lines and into the floor drains and then glued a cap on for now since we had a few nights in the 20s. It's holding for now but I need to figure out how to move forward so I don't have to worry about the valve failing every year and causing this again.
 
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I think @Newdude posted a link to some sort of internal pipe plugging device that could be removed through the fittings, in another thread, that I cannot for the life of me find at the moment. Or if it wasn't him, maybe he remembers it.

An old plumbers trick I have heard used, but never tried, is to pack the pipe with white sandwich bread. This will hold back the water long enough to make up the joint and then the bread will dissolve after a while. Not sure if I would want to try this here.

--Jeff
 

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Thanks, I hadn’t come across the bread idea. I did finally find a video showing a pool company that uses a Drain King which attaches to a garden hose and inflates which will stop the water. I can thread the hose through the new valve, block the water, clean it up and glue it and then remove it when dry and put it back to new.

The concern I have now is that this valve will fail again in the future and I’d like to put antifreeze in it but I can’t figure out a good way to do it without having the water force it all out while I have the pipe open. Surely there has to be a way the pros do this type of winterization on a pool with the equipment pad below the water line.
 
I think @Newdude posted a link to some sort of internal pipe plugging device that could be removed through the fittings, in another thread, that I cannot for the life of me find at the moment. Or if it wasn't him, maybe he remembers it.
Wasn't me/didnt see it. :(
An old plumbers trick I have heard used, but never tried, is to pack the pipe with white sandwich bread. This will hold back the water long enough to make up the joint and then the bread will dissolve after a while
Someone tried this last year and it did the trick. We joked beforehand that a 1/2 copper pipe needs a slice and a 2 inch pipe needs a loaf. IIRC they didnt report back how much bread was needed but it did get the job done.
uses a Drain King which attaches to a garden hose and inflates which will stop the water. I can thread the hose through the new valve, block the water, clean it up and glue it and then remove it when dry and put it back to new.
(y)
The concern I have now is that this valve will fail again
It was probably a fluke
I’d like to put antifreeze in it b
Antifreeze in the main drain pipe is fruitless. It will work its way out the open end.
 
Wasn't me/didnt see it. :(
Well boo. I always think I'll remember things and I never can. :rolleyes:

Someone tried this last year and it did the trick. We joked beforehand that a 1/2 copper pipe needs a slice and a 2 inch pipe needs a loaf. IIRC they didnt report back how much bread was needed but it did get the job done.
Good to hear. I've never had the need to try it.

uses a Drain King
Sounds like a plan. Should work great.

--Jeff
 
Thank you all, I guess it’s also possible that this valve already leaked a little bit before (even from new?) and it just didn’t get cold enough the last few years to cause damage. Judging by my electric bill, it was a bit colder this year than at least last year. Even a tiny leak the allows the air to be pushed out will lead to water displacing it completely over the 4.5 months per year I have the pool closed.

I’ll go ahead and replace the valve and keep my fingers crossed as it seems this might’ve been uncommon.
 
I think @Newdude posted a link to some sort of internal pipe plugging device that could be removed through the fittings, in another thread, that I cannot for the life of me find at the moment. Or if it wasn't him, maybe he remembers it.

An old plumbers trick I have heard used, but never tried, is to pack the pipe with white sandwich bread. This will hold back the water long enough to make up the joint and then the bread will dissolve after a while. Not sure if I would want to try this here.

--Jeff
The Flood Plug…


10087D4A-B512-4397-AF32-0AC37E27FB41.png
 
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Following up on this. I used a Drain King for 1-3” pipe and it worked perfectly. The reviews have tons of people who popped theirs immediately but I think they inflated it too fast and used too much water pressure. The directions say to turn the water on slowly which I did and it threaded right through the valve and pipe and I was able to stop the water, dry everything up, and then glue it. So far so good but I finished in the dark so I’ll have to make sure it’s not leaking.
 
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