Help removing pool light

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KevinLC

Member
Jan 26, 2020
10
San Diego
I have an older style pool (perhaps 70’s or 80’s). I’m trying to upgrade the light (assuming 500w) to LED. The problem is there is no screw at the top of the light. There is a metal indentation which I tried to turn with an Allen wrench (which kinda fit) and with a socket wrench with Allen bit. The screw or whatever it is didn’t budge. I’m not even sure it is an Allen screw. I tried to pry back the metal ring a little to look behind it, to see if I could see a screw or bracket or anything going into the light opening. I do see some sort of calcified attachment. Not sure if it’s a screw, a bracket, something the screw goes into or what. Please help before I start breaking things! I’ll try to attach an image. Not sure what you can see in it, since the angle is weird and the light is too far below the waterline to get a good shot. A1A5FA24-913A-427A-8720-76745C91B397.jpeg1AEAE893-38F5-4FAC-981A-75B3951B60E3.jpeg
 
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Hi Kevin, welcome to TFP. :wave:

I believe that is an older pentair light, (don’t quote me on that) but there should be a set screw holding that light in. Most likely it has corroded over the years, and might require draining of the pool to remove.
Let me ping a couple more people that may have some advice for you. :cheers:
@Pool Clown @JamesW
 
Ok thx. I read somewhere about somebody sliding a hacksaw between the metal ring and wall and cutting the screw then using vice scrips to remove the rest of the screw once the light is out. I would try this, but if it is a screw (which I’m still not 100%) I would be afraid of cutting the metal tab or whatever the screw goes into. Thx again for any advice. Btw, I am doing this project w scuba gear.
 
I’m thinking they are brackets. I got a hacksaw blade in their and felt around cautiously and there seems to be nodes or brackets every few inches that are smooth. You can see one if you look closely at last picture. Would this mean that it should just pop out, or...
 

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Check out my light. I think we have the same one. This is a standard Pentair light from the late 90s. If you look in the second picture you will see the flat brackets you are seeing thru the space (I think). There is a set screw that holds it. Mine was a little discolored but not corroded in the least bit. After that it did take some prying to snap it out of the niche. I used a big flat head and worked it around. Once I got it off the first time, it now pops off easily with a flathead or my fingernails if they happen to be long enough.

You said you have scuba gear... get a flashlight and see what you can find looking in that hole. Notice there are three holes in my faceplate but only the larger one had a set screw. See what you can figure out with that set screw. Mine is a phillips head that looks like this: Pentair Pilot Screw, For SS Face Plate - 619355 - INYOPools.com

Worst case you need to drill out or cut that screw with the hacksaw like you said. The niche that the screw threads into is recessed and at worst flush with the opening in the pool wall, so I don't see how you would could damage it cutting the screw. I used to be an oilfield diver... you can use air tools underwater at that depth, to avoid having to drain the pool if you have them. Harbor freight would be your friend here, since the tool wont ever be the same after being submerged lol. Best of luck and keep us posted. I am about to change my light out for an LED variant... just waiting on a gasket.

Pentair Amerlite Pool Light Parts - INYOPools.com

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Oh no, it's Dirk again. Yep, but someone needs to say: be absolutely sure to de-energize the circuit that runs to the light. In an inherited pool of that age, you have no idea what's going on behind that ring, or if it was ever electrically bonded properly or if the bond is still in tact if it was. We have a thread here that describes a bonding lug that had corroded right off the housing. If I was going to work IN the water... yikes... even if not, I would find the junction box to the light (likely somewhere near the light, in the concrete or in a landscape patch behind the pool), and physically disconnect the wiring (after turning off the breaker, of course). I read in a post here about a guy found dead in his pool because he thought he knew what he was doing changing out his pool light... GFI protection isn't enough, because those breakers don't last forever.
 
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Djdonte,

Thx so much for the info. It's so strange there is no screw there... Well, more like there's probably an allen screw or some type of hex screw. I began working on it with the hacksaw (wearing a glove and doing it by hand... ugh) for a little while before I got scared I might be cutting through the screw receiver tab. But if it's recessed, that will alleviate my fear. I actually was thinking about buying some type of air compressor tool. I'll see what I can do with the hacksaw blade first.

Dirk: Yes, all power is off going to the pool. I actually just put in a new subpanel and ran fresh conduit to the pump, light switch and gfci.
 
And that was my point. If you can’t answer questions like that yourself, you should let a pool electrician do this work, or at least take extra precautions to make sure there is zero chance of any stray current getting at you while you’re working on the light. It can be extremely dangerous working on pool electrical. And why I no longer offer what little I know about it to a stranger in an Internet forum (other than words of caution, that is)...

Others here might be willing to advise you.
 
Bonding is different then grounding and serves a totally different purpose. Bonding ensures there are no points of unequal potential around the pool that can shock a person.

www.troublefreepool.com

Bonding vs Grounding

Electricity and water don't mix. Learn a few basic tips how to keep your family safe when dealing with electricity around your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
I understand bonding is different from grounding, however it says to bond together all metal components. Since I only have the pool pump, and no other metal components, and you’re not supposed to bond to the panel or run a grounding rod... I’m not sure what exactly I would need to bond the pump to. I don’t see anything coming from the slab or cement deck either. And there’s no metal ladders or diving boards, etc... So any advise would be appreciated, and I do heed all the professional caveats when working w electricity... mainly I’d like to know how I get that Dang old school pool light out so I can stick in my pretty new LED light that turns on just by saying “Hey Siri, I’m going swimming!”
 
Water, lights, pump, and deck typically form the bonding grid. Basically anything conductive that can be touched within 5 feet of the water to keep it equipotential.

A metal light in contact with the water bonds the water. If a plastic light housing is used then a separate water bond needs to be installed.

Your deck should have rebar and bonding wires connected to it. Number 8 bare copper wire is used for bonding connections.
 

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