Help - Newbie. Reviewed the threads before posting - remain at a loss. Subj: White cloudy haze pebble tec floor

Brian Tucson

Member
Sep 29, 2024
6
Tucson
Pool Size
11100
Problem up front: Cloudy / hazy white spots / streaks / runs on pebble tec floor (Not on the sides). Just a haze, so breaking a piece off to test for calcium type is not possible. Back to intro. So fortunate to have found this group. Thank you in advance. I have reviewed many of the posts on this topic, and I can’t find one that addresses my issue specifically, always a ‘one off’ that makes my challenge different and thereby rules out the proposed solution.
I have a 11,100 GL chlorinated geometric pool built in 2023, in Tucson. It has 9 in floor jets with a cyclone hayward cartridge system. Tucson obviously, hot and hard water. My chemicals are on point, both through a weekly trip to the pool store and my liquid testing kit backs up the pool companies’ verdicts.

Two most recent results:
1. Free Chlorine: 4, PH 7.3-7.4, Alkalinity 110, Calcium hardness 514, Cyn Acid 31, Iron .1, Copper .5 and Phosphate 86.
2. Free Chlorine: 3, PH 7.3, Alkalinity 115, Calcium hardness 558, Cyn Acid 30, Iron .0, Copper .4 and Phosphate 180. (Pool company states they don’t really focus on hardness until above 800 in Tucson because of Central AZ project as a source of water)

Photos attached. I normally shock with 1 lb non stabilized one week, and then 1 lb stabilized the next week, normally 4-6 days apart in the summer (100-108F) at dusk. The granules are dissolved in warm water, dispersed throughout pool and pump / filter runs for 4-5 hours. I also stir up the water with my hand-held skimmer / brush the bottom. The following day I add 1.5 oz of Biodex Skillit for algae maintenance. No algae problems. I also add a tablet of Acuafinnessee softener in the skimmer basket weekly which dissolves in about 4 days (To combat the hardness). Finally 1-2 oz of clorox clarifier every 6-9 days.
During the day, in direct sun – the pool is absolutely beautiful and clear and you can barely notice the white streaks, you have to really be ‘looking’. As dusk sets it – the streaks become more evident, to include the evenings with pool lighting on. The streaks are mostly around the edges, and more prevalent in the shallow end. Shallow end 4', deep end 5'. I maintain the pool myself, but the local pool company who fact checks my water chemistry seams fairly certain after viewing the photos this is a slight calcium build up that should dissipate through brushing. I have not seen those results despite brushing daily and self-vacuuming after a week, to include scrubbing inside the pool with goggles and a hand brush (nylon). My scrubbing from inside the pool days are about to end for winter.

I am at a total loss, wife believes pebble tec is destroyed. Is my only option to drain the pool when its cooler and pressure wash, chorine waash or acid wash…in that order? Is it possible the pebble tec was comphromised during install? Thank you again for any counsel to this new ‘pool maintainer’.
 

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Welcome to TFP.

You need to get your own test kit - Taylor 2006C or Test Kits - and then use PoolMath to calculate your CSI.

If it is calcium scale then maintaining your CSI around -0.6 to 1 can melt off scale over time. That may be difficult to maintain with your high calcium.

First step is to get an accurate read on your water chemistry.

I would not acid wash or pressure wash a pool for cosmetic issues. It can damage your surface while the white streaks are just cosmetic.



 
Welcome to the forum.
Adding Cal Hypo is not a good idea with your water chemistry. Use liquid chlorine.
 
TY. Been reading the links since my post 90 minutes ago. Quite nervous. Stopping Cal Hypo immediately. With an AVG CYA of 30 PPM and room to grow it before diluting H2O, could I use Sodium Dichloro without conceding meaningful benefits of liquid? It wouldn't increase CH, pennies more in cost - but easier than managing liquid and a stabilizer?
 

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You can use dichlor if you wish. Your CYA will rise slowly. Do be cognizant of the acidity of the product.

Also -- you mentioned 'shocking'. There is no need for that if you follow TFPC.

Watch
 
Onboard with shocking being a marketing term. TY 4 vid. To your suggestion, while liquid doesn't elevate CYA, the stabilizer would - unless I use a stabilizer without CYA? It appears I was focusing on not elevating my CYA to avoid having to dilute pool, but it came at the expense of 'harder water'. So I will 'gift' away my inventory of Cal Hypo, and now just need to decide whether it is liquid with a stab or dichlor.....managing other elements, but hopeful either of these choices will slow CH? Thank again.
 
Not sure you understand. Liquid chlorine adds nothing but chlorine. In our climate, you should never use solid chlorine products.
Best case for our climate is a SWCG and using softened water for make up water due to evaporation.
 
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Not sure you understand. Liquid chlorine adds nothing but chlorine. In our climate, you should never use solid chlorine products.
Best case for our climate is a SWCG and using softened water for make up water due to evaporation.
Appreciate this - I was grappling with the stabilizer in addition to liquid chlorine - because at 105 degree and 11k GLs, absent stabilizer - I’d be adding ~ 1 gl of liquid almost per day for all 80 days of summer ($6 x 80 = 480 p/y chlorine alone). Not trying to be obtuse - maybe I missed another point? Ty
 
A SWG is much more economical way of adding pure chlorine to your pool then liquid chlorine.
 
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