HELP!!! My pool is a milky bluish white

Jun 3, 2017
24
Jackson, NJ
I have been to multiple pool stores and bought into there opinions on what to do to clear my water up. 1 actually helped it go from GREEN to what it is now. I have been running the filter non-stop for almost 3 weeks. I turned off twice to let things settle to the bottom after adding recommended FLOCK which has work for me in the past but it did nothing now.

I discovered this forum a couple of days ago and have been reading various posts and recommendations. I did further research on the internet and feel the BBB method is my best most cost effective option.

The pool stores sold me CyA, Bioguard Silk Sticks with stabilizer, Ph +, Calcium, Alkalinity +, and about 30#s of Turbo Shock over the last 2 weeks and nothing has helped to get my water clear in addition to the FLOCK, Clarifier and Algicide they sold me. No I am stupid and listened to their advice and nothing has worked.

I have the crapped 2 reagent liquid test kit and Inst-Test Pool4 Plus test strips by LaMotte. I am ordering a more elaborate test kit so I can do my own testing.

The pool stores have told me on 1 occasion I have Phosphates, high metal, while another said it was Nitrites causing it to be cloudy. I have been adding chlorine and shock everyday and i have not shown any free chlorine on any test until recently. Which was after the pool store guy told me to get rid of Nitrite the only "solution is dilution" and to drain about 1/3 of my water and add fresh clean water. I did this then had the water test by them and added what they told me - 4lbs of Turboshock, 25lbs of Alkalinity, 2lbs of Ph+ and 4lbs of Stabilizer. it has been 3 days since then and no change in my clarity. I tested the chlorine about 3 hours after adding the shock and I was at about 10ppm on my test strips (this was the 1st time I ever got a chlorine reading) the next morning I was about 3ppm - I added a ton of shock about 10lbs because I figured if organics were eating it up then more was better and like a dumbass I also added my stabilizer.

I have been reading this forum for 3 days and found a couple of threads where people have had similar issues and you all have helped them out.


Here is my set up:
Inground Chlorine Pool (not salt)
29000 Gallons (roughly somewhere between 28000 and 29000, I am ere on higher)
Hayward Sand filter

Today I have done the following:
Drained my pool by about 6 inches of water to try and dilute the Stabilizer and added fresh water

Added the following chemicals:
484 oz of 5.25% Chlorine Bleach
242 oz of 8.25% Chlorine Bleach
3 Bioguard Silk Sticks in the skimmer basket

Current Test according to my strips:
FC - 10+ppm (test strip chart only goes to 10 which is light blue and my strip is Dark Blue)
Alk - between 120 - 180 (strip is not more accurate definitely over 120 but less than 180 lets say 150)
pH - between 7.2 - 7.6
CyA - between 40 - 100

Chemicals I currently have on hand:
242 oz of 8.25% Bleach
3.5 lbs Arm and Hammer Baking Soda
5 lbs of 21 Mule Borax
1/2 Gallong of 30% Muriatic Acid
Plenty of Bioguard Silk Sticks
 
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Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

My first suggestion is to stop going to the pool store. Their only response it to sell you something. Looking at your list, they have sold you a lot!

I will tell you, it didn't get this way overnight and it will take time to clear. But, we can teach you how to get it sparkling and keep it that way for a lot less money than the pool store.

Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here and your test strips are even worse. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry and Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis

For now add about 60 oz of bleach each day until your test kit arrives.
 
Looking at your signature my pool is about the same size 39 x 18 freeform vinyl pool - pool store says it is just over 28000 gallons but I think they may be over stating the size. How would I get a more accurate volume to my pool with out draining it and counting the gallons out.
 
Current Test according to my strips:
FC - 10+ppm (test strip chart only goes to 10 which is light blue and my strip is Dark Blue)
Alk - between 120 - 180 (strip is not more accurate definitely over 120 but less than 180 lets say 150)
pH - between 7.2 - 7.6
CyA - between 40 - 100
Welcome!

If you plan to follow TFP care guidelines you will need a proper test kit, and stay away from the pool $tore.

Your SLAM level FC is 40% of your CYA, how do you know if it's FC 16ppm, or FC 40ppm with that CYA reading?

TA above 120ppm is considered high, and possibly troublesome for pH.

Are you planning to get a recommended test kit?
 
If you plan to follow TFP care guidelines you will need a proper test kit, and stay away from the pool $tore.

Your SLAM level FC is 40% of your CYA, how do you know if it's FC 16ppm, or FC 40ppm with that CYA reading?

TA above 120ppm is considered high, and possibly troublesome for pH.

Are you planning to get a recommended test kit?

My Goal is to stay away from pool stores except when parts are needed.

I don't know my exact FC my test strip only goes to 10 and I know it is higher than that but again the test strips suck.

TA is high so I drained and added some fresh water hoping to get both my TA and CyA down to reasonable levels. After doing my assigned home work I found that the CyA can take some time to show up accurately on any test so I am not going to worry about that until I get a better test kit.

My plan is to get 1 of the 3 recommended kits i saw in my homework.
 
I am planning on getting the recommended test kit.

Awesome. And welcome :) we like helping people learn to take care of their pools and understanding their chemistry. Use the link at the top of the page that says pool math. At the bottom of that screen to that link, there is a pool volume calculator. That may help you.
 
Thanks I ordered the Taylor K-2006 test kit only because it will be here much sooner than later. In addition I do not have 4lbs of Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) I have 4lbs of Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate).

I am looking forward to the learning experience and the "fun" of handling my pool myself.
 
Thanks I ordered the Taylor K-2006 test kit only because it will be here much sooner than later. In addition I do not have 4lbs of Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) I have 4lbs of Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate).

I am looking forward to the learning experience and the "fun" of handling my pool myself.
No adding anything to the pool other than liquid chlorine (one bottle of 8.25% bleach) a day with the pump running daily until you get you test kit and can verify what is happening with your pool.
 

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Well it appears diluting my pool and adding all that Bleach yesterday did something. I can now see the brush at bottom of deep end when i brush the pool. Still milky but clearing up.

I forgot to add that I have the fiber filter stuff you can add to make the Sand filter more efficient. I put about 4oz (half a bag) in yesterday. I also ended up back washing 4 times yesterday. This morning filter pressure was good so I just emptied my skimmer basket, brushed and added about 60oz of 8.25% bleach.

I order the test kit and it should be here Wednesday. According to my crappy test strips and drops my Ph & Alk - look more normal, CyA came down some, and I still have a lot of FC in the pool - I still added the 60oz as per previous guidance.

Thank you so much everyone.
 
Welcome!! I'm on a similar journey and have been slamming for about 3.5 days. My water is blue but still cloudy although incrementally better each day.

I just added another 1/2G this morning - so we are still losing a few ppm overnight.


N. Texas
25,000G IG pool -installed in 80's owned by us for 4 years
Maintained by us for 16 months
Plaster with a diving end of 10+ feet
DE filter
 
Welcome!! I'm on a similar journey and have been slamming for about 3.5 days. My water is blue but still cloudy although incrementally better each day.

I just added another 1/2G this morning - so we are still losing a few ppm overnight.


N. Texas
25,000G IG pool -installed in 80's owned by us for 4 years
Maintained by us for 16 months
Plaster with a diving end of 10+ feet
DE filter

Good Luck. Same here it looks incrementally better today than it did yesterday morning. I can't wait to get my high tech test kit so i can get a much better understanding of my water. Right now my test strips and Swimland Ph/Cl test so both show Ph in OK range and FC thru the roof. TA and CyA look like they may have come down to a better level but I won't know exactly until wednesday or thursday.

- - - Updated - - -

Welcome!! I'm on a similar journey and have been slamming for about 3.5 days. My water is blue but still cloudy although incrementally better each day.

I just added another 1/2G this morning - so we are still losing a few ppm overnight.


N. Texas
25,000G IG pool -installed in 80's owned by us for 4 years
Maintained by us for 16 months
Plaster with a diving end of 10+ feet
DE filter

Good Luck. Same here it looks incrementally better today than it did yesterday morning. I can't wait to get my high tech test kit so i can get a much better understanding of my water. Right now my test strips and Swimland Ph/Cl test so both show Ph in OK range and FC thru the roof. TA and CyA look like they may have come down to a better level but I won't know exactly until wednesday or thursday.
 
Hello! Did you order the K2006C? The C matters. If it was not, then you will need additional reagents immediately. Especially the FAS-DPD and CYA. Order from TFTestkits.net.

Take care.
 
Alrighty the test set arrived today here is the first results I got:

FC = 30
Ph = 7.6
TA = 150
CH = 140
CyA = 100

- - - Updated - - -

Alrighty the test set arrived today here is the first results I got:

FC = 30
Ph = 7.6
TA = 150
CH = 140
CyA = 100
 
Since your CYA is over 100, you need to perform a diluted CYA test to try and determine how much it is over 100. To do so, use these instructions from Pool School:


  1. If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
    • Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
    • Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
    • Shake briefly to mix.
    • Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
    • Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.
 
Since your CYA is over 100, you need to perform a diluted CYA test to try and determine how much it is over 100. To do so, use these instructions from Pool School:


  1. If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
    • Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
    • Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
    • Shake briefly to mix.
    • Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
    • Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.

Ok, I definitely screwed up my first CyA test from earlier today. I just retested it using the diluted method and 2x using standard method and got a CyA of 60.
I verified my other tests and those were fine just the CyA I messed up on.

So CyA is 60.


Ok so where do I go from here:
FC = 30
Ph = 7.6
TA = 150
CH = 140
CyA = 60
 
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You are above SLAM levels so if you are still needing to complete the three criteria for a successful SLAM then keep your FC at 24. No need to test the pH when your FC is above 10 - it is not an accurate reading with elevated FC levels.

Once you complete the three criteria for a successful SLAM - let the FC drift down to 6 and maintain based on the FC/CYA chart.

Take care
 
You are above SLAM levels so if you are still needing to complete the three criteria for a successful SLAM then keep your FC at 24. No need to test the pH when your FC is above 10 - it is not an accurate reading with elevated FC levels.

Once you complete the three criteria for a successful SLAM - let the FC drift down to 6 and maintain based on the FC/CYA chart.

Take care

OK, just got to keep my FC up until pool is clear and it passes the over night loss test. Thanks everyone for the assistance.
 

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