Help me - uuugh GREEN water, no idea what else to do

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Kelmuck

Kelmuck

Active member
Jul 23, 2021
32
South Carolina
Pool Size
21240
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have an above ground pool with a large deck built around it - 30 ft round by 54 in deep pool - for about 10 years now. We had to replace the liner last year for the first time, me and hubby installed a new seam liner and it was actually quite simple. This year, we had to replace the pump, also the first time so we got our money's worth from that, also. We changed to Simple Salt Water System, this is our 2nd (or 3rd??) season for that. Our season runs from like March to October mostly, so we just about swim all year. I joined this group as I have STRUGGLED this year with a total problem pool!! Misinformation from multiple places, the pool stores just want to sell me products - I converted to the Simple Salt water system thinking it would mean LESS chemicals; the first year was great, but now??? Its green, like river green - I work my butt off getting it clear and then a few days later I can see it starting again. SMH Hubby just wants to empty and refill, but I just want to conquer it now. Maybe my Simple Salt Water System isn't good? The place I purchased it at said we should never have to add salt again but that makes absolutely no sense to me. I am fixing to order one of the suggested test kits so that should be to me in the next few days. Please tell me there is hope for me, esp since I am not a chemist in any way shape or form. I am going to add a picture of exactly how green it is, please don't make me feel worse! :) Its a different shade of green then the first picture, but still green!
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: Let's get to it:
- How are you testing your water? If it's not with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit it needs to be priority #1.
- Stay out of the pool store; their testing if off and help worthless most of the time.
- Have you added any other products to the water besides salt?
- Does your Simple Salt system use cartridges (copper) by chance?
- Are you on a well?

Let's start there because from the pics it's hard to tell if you have just an algae problem or also metals (iron/copper). We'll know more with your replies.

www.troublefreepool.com

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Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
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I am actually ordering a TF 100 right now, Amazon Prime should have it to me in a few days. I did add a few things, but I haven't in the last 2 days just to see what happens. I read I needed to add some baking soda to up my CYA (maybe? lol) before I did the muratic acid for lowering my PH. So I added muriatic acid, my PH was over 8 (based on the test strips) last weekend when I started. Once I had my PH to like 7.4, I added a gallon of liquid chlorinator. I have been back washing everyday and the stuff that comes out is def green, once it runs clear I switch back to filter. My simple start does not have cartridges, and I am on town water. But it has rained more than I ever remember recently. Like every single day! I know that it's not algae laying on the bottom, I tried to brush it and it makes no difference at all. i know the test strips are not good, but as of this morning they show my total chlorine as 0 , Cl/Br as .5, PH as 6.8, alk 80, CYA is 0 and TH is 100.
 
Sounds awful

Simple Salt System - Eastgate Pools and Spa

eastgatepools.com eastgatepools.com
""Above ground pool owners have been searching for a quality, effective alternative to old-fashioned chlorine. Some have tried a salt-system chlorine generator. While they are effective on smaller pools, they generally don’t make enough chlorine on pools over 15,000 gallons. But the biggest problem has been the corrosive effect the salt has on walls and toprails. Plus, splash out runs down the walls and destroys the bottom tracks. Many pool manufacturers have even gone so far as to void warranties if you are using salt-systems. Not Good!

A better alternative is the Simple Salt System. This is a hybrid system that uses a very small dose of salt to raise Total Dissolved Solids levels (TDS). Whereas a traditional salt system requires massive amounts of salt – often hundreds of pounds, Simple Salt needs only a small amount that will not affect your pool. So how does it work? The main chamber slowly adds small quantities of copper to your pool, and transference is done through TDS levels, helping the copper move throughout the pool. This small amount of copper keeps algae under control. There are just three components you need to add throughout the season.

At the start of the season, add one bucket of Prime. This contains metal removers, water clarity enhancers, and most importantly, sodium tetraborates. Algae must have CO2 to survive and the sodium tetraborates inhibit algae’s ability to consume carbon dioxide. Algae are virtually choked out of your pool.

Every two weeks, add Vivid, a natural enzyme that breaks down oils and minimizes waterline build-up. It also helps cartridge filters operate at peak efficiency.

Weekly, add Shimmer. This is a hybrid shock that contains more sodium tetraborates and calcium hypochlorite, a strong and effective sanitizer that kills bacteria and combats algae.

When it is time to winterize, add Shield. This is a one-step winterizing product that will help keep your pool looking crystal clear when you take off the cover to start the next season.

The benefits of the Simple Salt System are countless. Water feels softer, bleaching is reduced to a minimum, red-eye syndrome is virtually eliminated, and with proper use, algae is contained, controlled, and eliminated. And all for just slightly more than traditional chlorine systems that offer none of the above.

Stop in and talk with an Associate today and find out how simple it is to make the switch to the Simple Salt Water System and a better way of pool maintenance.""

A new fangled recurring revenue stream
 
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Im not an expert here but I would drain the pool and start fresh and only use chlorine to sanitize. the details are in the pool school here
 
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k, so do I get rid of the Simple Salt water system and buy something that works better? Or just go back to regular pool? I will get hubby to help me drain and start over :(

and thanks for answering!
 
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If you want the simplicity of a salt water chlorine generator (SWG), get a real one. Salt is not the main culprit for rusting above ground pools, moisture is. We can help you pick one out if you want to go that way. To correct an earlier misconception, you asked if you needed baking soda to raise CYA. CYA is cyanuric acid, a specific chemical also known as pool conditioner or pool stabilizer. When you look at the ingredients in a bucket of chlorine tabs cyanuric acid will be in the list. CYA is needed to protect the chlorine. Once you have your test kit and the pool is filled again, you will need enough CYA to reach 30 ppm. You can use liquid chlorine until you decide whether or not you want an SWG. While you are waiting here are some more pool care articles to read.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Recommended Levels
 
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zea3 said:
If you want the simplicity of a salt water chlorine generator (SWG), get a real one. Salt is not the main culprit for rusting above ground pools, moisture is. We can help you pick one out if you want to go that way. To correct an earlier misconception, you asked if you needed baking soda to raise CYA. CYA is cyanuric acid, a specific chemical also known as pool conditioner or pool stabilizer. When you look at the ingredients in a bucket of chlorine tabs cyanuric acid will be in the list. CYA is needed to protect the chlorine. Once you have your test kit and the pool is filled again, you will need enough CYA to reach 30 ppm. You can use liquid chlorine until you decide whether or not you want an SWG. While you are waiting here are some more pool care articles to read.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Recommended Levels
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info on CYA. I’m really trying to ‘learn’ how to read my pool and what it needs.
 
Looks great. Now be sure to test the water with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit to ensure you have the levels correct. New water had no CYA (stabilizer) so hopefully you added some. Free chlorine is added each day and balanced to that CYA level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels to prevent algae. PH is the other most important item right now so it doesn't get too high. Just about anywhere between 7.2 - 7.8 should work.
 
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Texas Splash said:
Looks great. Now be sure to test the water with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit to ensure you have the levels correct. New water had no CYA (stabilizer) so hopefully you added some. Free chlorine is added each day and balanced to that CYA level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels to prevent algae. PH is the other most important item right now so it doesn't get too high. Just about anywhere between 7.2 - 7.8 should work.
Click to expand...
I haven’t added ANYTHING yet except a chlorine floater. I was scared to over do it 🙈. But my test kit will be in soon. Hopefully!
 
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