Help me take control

[Blue oval]

Hi all, I have a pool guy but the service isn't up to par. I regularly get green spots and from just the basic tests I've done the chlorine and PH are never where they are supposed to be. This got me wondering if everything else is out of balance too so I picked up the TF 100 (salt) test kit and I'm ready to take over.

This is my first time testing with this kit so please let me know of any tips or if I need to re-test.

FC 2 ppm
CC 0
TC 2
Calcium 800 ppm (not sure on this one, it turned purple first then eventually a shade of blue after adding more)
Total alkalinity 200 ppm
CYA 100 PPM (or more, it didn't reach the 100 line before I stopped seeing the black dot)
Sodium Chloride 4000 ppm

I think the calcium hardness test I need to double check because that measurement warrants at least a half drain and refill.

 

[wireform]

Hi and welcome. You need to do the diluted CYA test once the CYA nears the 100 mark. You also need the TA and PH levels to complete the testing
https://www.troublefreepool.com/thr...dilute-cya-test-if-over-100.71390/post-610571

 

[Dirk]

You also need the YA and PH levels to complete the testing

Hey Blue! You've come to the right place. Welcome to TFP! @wireform, did you mean "TA and pH?"

@Blue oval, you were right. Your numbers are off, possibly way off. They explain the green spots. You've completed the first two steps: buying the perfect kit and asking your first question. Next, please fill out your signature, so we can fine-tune our advice. Something like mine would be very helpful to us.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

 

[wireform]

Corrected thank you, Yes "TA" (fat finger syndrome)

 

[Dirk]

Here's a great thread about test instructions:

Extended Test Kit Directions

Extended Test Kit Directions These directions are for use with test kits based on Taylor chemistry, such as the TF-100 from TFTestKits.net, the Taylor K-2006, and the Leslie's Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit, and also for a few other tests that are commonly recommended here at TFP. Over the...

www.troublefreepool.com

Scroll down to post #7 to learn more about that purple color you're getting with the CH test. Look for "fading endpoint."

 

[Dirk]

Corrected thank you, Yes "TA" (fat finger syndrome)

Thanks. He got 200 for "Total alkalinity" so he's got some work to do!

 

[wireform]

Thanks. He got 200 for "Total alkalinity" so he's got some work to do!

Oops

 

[Dirk]

I think the calcium hardness test I need to double check because that measurement warrants at least a half drain and refill.

A partial drain is probably in your future, but let's get a full set of reliable test results, and your signature filled in, before we go there. If you post results in this format, in this order, it's another way you can help us help you. You don't need the units, or the long names, we know what you mean:

FC: 2
CC: 0
pH:
TA: 200
CH: 800
CYA: 100+
Salt: 4000

Thanks!!

 

[Dirk]

Oops

No worries. I've asked our new newbie friend to post his results like you and I are used to seeing them. Otherwise, the numbers can get lost in the shuffle...

 

[Dirk]

BTW, in So. California, with your negligent pool guy, you could very easily have a CH of 800.

 

[Blue oval]

I will read up, test again, and post my results later.

FC: 2
CC: 0
pH: 7.5
TA: 200
CH: 800
CYA: 100+
Salt: 4000

 

[Dirk]

Great job on the signature. With a plaster pool, your CH (if correct) is a concern. Your CSI is about 0.53, which can lead to calcium collecting on your plaster finish and the plates inside your SWG. With a SWG, your CSI should be in the -0.3 to 0.0 range. Once you confirm that CH 800 test result, we can go from there.

You might read up on CSI.

CSI and LSI - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You can use the Pool Math app to help you monitor and adjust CSI.

Here you can get an idea of where your levels should be:

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Here is one approach you might use regarding the pool guy:



I only say that because that's what I did. I had very similar issues with my pool before I found TFP. I studied hard and adopted their methods, then fired the pool guy. I spend way less money, my pool has not had any algae since, and the water is so clear and clean my guests actually mention it.

 

[duraleigh]

Get chlorine in your pool! Sooner rather than later. Add enough chlorine to get to 6-8 ppm and keep it there. What does your water look like right now? Can you see any sign of algae?

 

[JamesW]

The turquoise and black stains indicate copper.

Did the pool person use copper?

Are any of the stains purple?

Purple is usually copper cyanurate.

 

[Blue oval]

I will read up, test again, and post my results later.

FC: 2
CC: 0
pH: 7.5
TA: 200
CH: 800
CYA: 100+
Salt: 4000

FC: 3
CC: 1
pH: 7.5
TA: 170
CH: 1000
CYA: 160

For the calcium hardness, adding 5 drops of R0012 before didn't help with the fading endpoint. The solution never turns red, just pink, about drop 38 it turns purple, and by drop 40 its blue. I was able to repeat this 3 times.

I see a faint tint of green on the swim step.

I don't think my pool guy used copper.

 

[JamesW]

This looks like copper stains.

Try the stain ID kit.

 

[Dirk]

When I plug your latest numbers into the left column of this page:

PoolMath

Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.

www.troublefreepool.com

And plug these number into the right column:
FC: 6
pH: 7.5
TA: 70
CH: 350
CYA: 70
Salt: 3000

With the "Suggested Goal Levels" set to TroubleFreePool.com, SWG and Plaster...

It calculates a 65% water exchange to correct your CH. To correct your CYA, it calculates a 56% exchange, so 65% wins. Try the page yourself. Get familiar with this tool (it uses the same formulas as the Pool Math app). See if you get the same results.

But that does not include the CH in your fill water, which will affect the end result of an exchange. So that is the next step. Take a sample of your fill water, post these results:
TA:
CH:
You don't need to test anything else.

NOTE: Exchanging water in a plaster pool, especially if it's "of age," has certain risks. If your surrounding water table is high, the pool can float out of the ground. Or old plaster can blister and/or delaminate. Both worst-case-scenarios, but both possible under certain "perfect storm" conditions.

A straight water exchange is the fastest and cheapest, but there are other options:
- An RO treatment (performed by a specialist)
- A no-drain exchange

Read this:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Dirk]

The turquoise and black stains indicate copper.

@JamesW, I'm a bit confused with this post, and your second one about a stain ID kit. It's as if you're responding to a different thread. Did the OP mention these stains in some other thread?

 

[Dirk]

@mknauss, can you weigh-in on this thread and the actions needed? I'm much more comfortable with advising this level of action when you're overseeing/double-checking me... I'm sure the OP would appreciate a second opinion, too.

 

[mknauss]

Unless those are very odd reflections, I agree with JamesW there is staining. If this is wished to be addressed, getting a stain kit now would be relevant as if a treatment to remove stains is done, the pool will need to be completely drained.

If staining is not a concern, then a large water exchange or RO is warranted. Up to the OP.