Should I increase my chlorine to 30 or go ahead and let it drop since I've had no overnight loss at 20?
Help. Can't stabilize pH with normal alkalinity
- Thread starter boomrabbitt
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,549
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
As long as you met the three criteria for a successful SLAM - you are done!
Take care.
I assume the pucks were NOT in the pool during the OCLT?
No tablets were in during this process.
CC zero
OCLT zero loss
Clear water
Oh lord I hope this does it. My Taylor kit is not here yet and using the dilution method of measuring my chlorine would get difficult at levels higher than 20
After previous attempts to get rid of the stuff, it would start coming back at Cl 8. Which is still too high swim in. I tried it and our swim suits bleached out
CC zero
OCLT zero loss
Clear water
Oh lord I hope this does it. My Taylor kit is not here yet and using the dilution method of measuring my chlorine would get difficult at levels higher than 20
After previous attempts to get rid of the stuff, it would start coming back at Cl 8. Which is still too high swim in. I tried it and our swim suits bleached out
- May 3, 2014
- 58,549
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That statement bothers me. Dilute testing FC is not recommended and not accurate. If you are doing a SLAM or OCLT without a FAS-DPD test, it is all suspect.
Up to you.
You can swim safely in a FC at or below shock level based on your CYA.
Take care.
Well that's not good. I mentioned this was the way I had to do it and nobody said anything about it so I pushed onward.
Didn't really have any choice. That algae was going to get way out of control if I didn't do something.
So do you think I should try to maintain where I am until Tuesday? Or let it fall and see what happens.
Didn't really have any choice. That algae was going to get way out of control if I didn't do something.
So do you think I should try to maintain where I am until Tuesday? Or let it fall and see what happens.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,549
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would do my best to keep it elevated until you get a FAS - DPD test and are able to do an OCLT.
If your CYA is now 50 your shock level FC is 20. You can swim in that level of FC. But I would be wary as your testing method has large error in it.
Take care.
If your CYA is now 50 your shock level FC is 20. You can swim in that level of FC. But I would be wary as your testing method has large error in it.
Take care.
Chlorine at higher PH levels is not as effective (If I remember correctly), but I could be wrong. A lot has to do with other factors including water temperature. I have something that Chem Geek put together and I actually see this when my PH drops to 7.2 with the solar cover. If you really want the information, I can probably dig it up somewhere. The chlorine additions are literally every other day and it is a combination of the cover and lower PH.
Regarding circulation, each pool is different. A lot also depends on brushing the walls and floors.
A well circulated properly chlorinated pool should not be having any kind of algae issues.
There have been very rare cases in where algaecides and phosphate removers have had to be used (Yes, I said phosphate removers), but that is the extreme when all else has failed.
Regarding circulation, each pool is different. A lot also depends on brushing the walls and floors.
A well circulated properly chlorinated pool should not be having any kind of algae issues.
There have been very rare cases in where algaecides and phosphate removers have had to be used (Yes, I said phosphate removers), but that is the extreme when all else has failed.
TF – 100 kit is here!!
Last night:
FC 19.5
CC 0
pH 7.8
Clear water
This morning:
FC 15.5
CC 0
CYA 50
TA 80
Ph 7.5
Clear water
Wow, OCLT fail. Water is clear but we've had windy/cool weather. Lots of leaves in the pool. Floating and stuck to the main drain. I couldn't keep it out. I wonder if that could be part of the loss. I have to assume though that mustard algae is still there with that big of a loss.
So I'm gonna SLAM at FC 30.
I hope this is over soon, our swim season ends first week of September usually. Cooler night/rain drop the pool temp too low for our comfort.
Last night:
FC 19.5
CC 0
pH 7.8
Clear water
This morning:
FC 15.5
CC 0
CYA 50
TA 80
Ph 7.5
Clear water
Wow, OCLT fail. Water is clear but we've had windy/cool weather. Lots of leaves in the pool. Floating and stuck to the main drain. I couldn't keep it out. I wonder if that could be part of the loss. I have to assume though that mustard algae is still there with that big of a loss.
So I'm gonna SLAM at FC 30.
I hope this is over soon, our swim season ends first week of September usually. Cooler night/rain drop the pool temp too low for our comfort.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,549
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Great job on the test kit!
Your shock level for your SLAM is 40% of your CYA - or 20 FC. No need to go above that. Mustard algae is a seperate process done at the very end of our SLAM - see Pool School - Mustard Algae
You can swim in your pool with FC at shock level based on your CYA. You need to be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end.
Take care.
- - - Updated - - -
No need to test pH when FC is above 10. It is inaccurate.
Your shock level for your SLAM is 40% of your CYA - or 20 FC. No need to go above that. Mustard algae is a seperate process done at the very end of our SLAM - see Pool School - Mustard Algae
You can swim in your pool with FC at shock level based on your CYA. You need to be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end.
Take care.
- - - Updated - - -
No need to test pH when FC is above 10. It is inaccurate.
Many thanks to you for correcting me on that one. I certainly missed that little caveat to the process.
I have a question about my kit. When I opened the CC reagent, there was a layer of crystallized crust around the edge like it had leaked at some point. The bottle seems full however. Do you think there's anything wrong with it?
I have a question about my kit. When I opened the CC reagent, there was a layer of crystallized crust around the edge like it had leaked at some point. The bottle seems full however. Do you think there's anything wrong with it?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,549
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Wondering if I bought some bad liquid chlorine. I just bought it from Walmart this past week.
I added some according to the calculator on the forum.
I wanted to raise it from 15.5 to 24, hoping that by the time the sun ate away some, I would land at 20 by the evening. (Trying to SLAM ) I just tested again. FC is 15.5.
I added the chlorine about 4 hours after I tested this morning but surely I didn't lose that much today. The water is crystal clear and has been for a couple weeks. If I turn the pump off, you can hardly tell that there's water in the pool.
Does this seem strange to anyone?
I added some according to the calculator on the forum.
I wanted to raise it from 15.5 to 24, hoping that by the time the sun ate away some, I would land at 20 by the evening. (Trying to SLAM ) I just tested again. FC is 15.5.
I added the chlorine about 4 hours after I tested this morning but surely I didn't lose that much today. The water is crystal clear and has been for a couple weeks. If I turn the pump off, you can hardly tell that there's water in the pool.
Does this seem strange to anyone?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,549
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What is the date on the bottle of chlorine? Should read 17XXX. The XXX is the number of days into 2017. That is the day it was bottled. Best to be less than 60 days old.
Probability is that the bleach is fine from Wal Mart. The biggest obstacle during a SLAM is the sun (if you add during hot sunny days) and how quickly the chlorine is consumed. It is recommend that you test, add according to pool math to SLAM level and continue this process. No need to try to figure out all the extra. As the water turns from green to cloudy and then to clear, wait a few more days with filter running. Once the water is clear, allow levels to drift down under 10 before you perform the OCLT. There has been some testing error, with higher levels and you could loose 1.5 to 2 ppm, which would mean that you failed the test.
Allow the levels to drift down under 10 and perform the overnight. If you find that more than 1 ppm is lost overnight, then continue the SLAM. Take your time with the testing to ensure consistent drops, etc. Also, PH will test accurately. Please keep us posted.
Allow the levels to drift down under 10 and perform the overnight. If you find that more than 1 ppm is lost overnight, then continue the SLAM. Take your time with the testing to ensure consistent drops, etc. Also, PH will test accurately. Please keep us posted.
I checked the date on the chlorine. It is 38 days old.
OK, so I'm not going to add chlorine tonight. Let it drop to 10 and then do the OCLT.
Just making sure I understand.
OK, so I'm not going to add chlorine tonight. Let it drop to 10 and then do the OCLT.
Just making sure I understand.
Hang on, what about the mustard algae shock level that goes at the end of the SLAM? If the pool drops below 10, passes the OCLT, then do I raise chlorine to mustard algae shock level?
Yes, you will need to SLAM again if mustard algae occurs. Is your pool clear? If so, perform the overnight test. You can perform the test with levels over 10 ppm, but definitely drop right below 10 ppm to do the overnight as well.
My 4yr old is chomping at the bit to get in. She saw me in the pool cleaning with a brush and lost her mind. Haha. I'm willing to take the risk but not my baby. FC was 13.5 @6hrs ago, so I thought I would jump in and get the corners up close. It's supposed to be safe to get in at that level with CYA 50 according to pool school. Now my skin is dried out and my tan lines are not what they were. Won't do that again. I have to admit, the swim was nice though. Haven't been able to get in for a while.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,549
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If a FC of 13.5 with a CYA of 50 effected you, then I would suspect either the FC is higher or the CYA is lower.
The active chlorine in your pool, if the FC and CYA are correct, is not harsh in any way. Now the pH -- that could be an issue if it was not started at 7.2 or you have done this SLAM for a very long time.
For a Deep Read on FC, CYA, and their relationship -- see -- Pool Water Chemistry
The active chlorine in your pool, if the FC and CYA are correct, is not harsh in any way. Now the pH -- that could be an issue if it was not started at 7.2 or you have done this SLAM for a very long time.
For a Deep Read on FC, CYA, and their relationship -- see -- Pool Water Chemistry