Help automating my pool

If you are looking for simple automation, there are ways other than purchasing and installing an expensive dedicated pool automation system. Take a look at what I accomplished on a very small budget. My pool turns on the infloor system each morning for a 90 min cleanup, then drops pump speed back to the correct speed for my SWG. If heat is called for (and available at the solar panels) the digital controller ramps up pump speed and opens the valve, then closes it and returns control to the pump when done. That’s all done automatically, pre programmed. My spa pump and heater along with all outdoor lighting is controlled by Alexa by voice or my iPhone
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: setsailsoon
This is where I get a little out of my element. I believe the actuators (what you're calling motorized valves) don't use the relays. They connect to the ET using dedicated terminals. Same for the heater. Same for the solar actuator. So the relays would be for the pump(s), spa light, pool light, and anything else you want to connect (garden lights, fountain pump, bug zapper, etc). The SWG piggie-backs off the main pump relay so that it can never turn on unless the main pump is also on.

So we'd need someone more familiar with the ET to confirm if what you listed actually needs the 8-relay model or not. I also don't know how many actuators can be controlled by an ET. If it is only four, it's possible you could wire one of the relays to move the actuator. Jim must still be at the North Pole or something...

Edit: @mknauss, I just read your post. Do I have that right (above)? Does the solar actuator count as one of the four, or is it four plus the solar actuator?
 
Last edited:
The ET will only control four valves. Period. Two are for the spa suction and return, two for owner designation.

The relays cannot drive a valve. You would need a transformer for additional valves that could use a relay.
 
After a lengthy conversation with Polytech pools I've decided to get an EasyTouch 4 system. This allows the connection of 4 high voltage devices of which my pump and pool lighting will take 2, leaving 2 spare. I'll get the IC 40 and the Screen Logic. The Screen Logic is used in lieu of the indoor control panel, in conversations here I did not realize that. It costs slightly more than $100 vs the indoor wired controller. That seems a no-brainer. This package deal from Polyteck costs $2210 and includes 2 valve actuators. The tech mentioned I can leave the valves open to my Hayward gas heater, no need to stop water flow to it when not in use and this will reduce the need for 2 valve actuators. As a footnote, when I purchased this house the heater valves were open. However I will need to add one valve actuator when I add solar thus using up 3 of the available 4 actuators slots on the ET4. The tech also mentioned the information needed to control the Hayward gas heater is included in the ET 4 manual but may require some additional hardware.
The tech was a little un-clear how the heater interfaces with the ET, but I think the ET somehow just turns it on or off to maintain the desired temp as set in the ET. I don't know how the ET does that - turns the heater on/off.
Comments before I pull the trigger.
 
The ET wires to the Firemans Switch in the heater. You set the heater to max temps and then the ET controls the temperature you set in the ET by just turning the heater on and off.
 
Some notes:

As I mentioned earlier, be sure they are not trying to sell you the lite version of the ET (PSL4 or PL4).

I believe the ET comes in models with and without spa control. While I don't have a spa, I do make use of the "S" (Spa) capabilities of my PSL4. My SWG and solar heater are all synced to run when my Pool mode is on. And that is scheduled for X number of hours per day. They all shut down about 4:00pm. But sometimes I want to run my solar heater longer, say for an evening get-together. I'll want a few extra hours of summertime sunshine on my solar panels to keep the pool nice and warm. But if I just turn on the Pool mode, to run the solar heater, I'll also be running the SWG for a few extra hours, which I don't always want to do. So I have Spa mode setup to run the solar heater, but with a SWG output setting of zero. I'll "turn on the spa" at 4:00pm, which in reality just mimics Pool mode (solar heater and filter pump) but the SWG dials down to zero, so I don't get any extra chlorine. It's an obscure use of the Spa mode feature, and could probably be duplicated in some other way, but it's very handy, especially on my indoor controller, it's just a press of one button.

The Screen Logic is used in lieu of the indoor control panel,
Just wanted to point out, it's not either/or. I have both ScreenLogic and the indoor control panel, and they work fine together. If I could only choose/afford one, I would choose ScreenLogic. But having both is very convenient. Controlling the pool with an app means finding my phone, starting the app, getting through the login process, finding the right screen, and then executing the action I want. For the example above, just turning on or off Spa mode for a few hours takes a minute or more, depending on where my phone is. But with the indoor control panel, it's just a push of one button as I'm walking by it. One second. Same for reading the pool temp, or initiating my "high-speed skimmer" mode, or a quick cleaner run, say, just before a pool party. I use the indoor control panel way more than ScreenLogic. My now-x-pool guy sold me my indoor control panel for $150, because I gave him back the wireless junk that comes with the ScreenLogic. So adding the indoor control panel was a no-brainer for me.

I have my ScreenLogic adapter and my indoor control panel all hardwired to my ET (they both use the same four-wire connection) and so I don't have to deal with any of the wireless models or gizmos for the connection (so no batteries to deal with either).

To be fair: according to Jim's experience, he swears by using wireless connections, because he thinks that affords him some protection from lightning strikes (I think he lost some gear to one before he was wireless). I can't dispute that, but am not worried about it either. I have so much gear hardwired together, if I get hit, it's going to be bad either way...
 
Last edited:
OK, thanks guys, I'm going the re-think the need for the screen logic module. I had the ET4 wired remote on my previous pool and thought that was great. Easy to see outdoor ait temp, pool temp and adjust anything as I walked by it.

I'm not sure what the fireman's switch on the Hayward heater is but once I get the ET unit I'll dig into it and will probably be back for more advice.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dirk
OK, thanks guys, I'm going the re-think the need for the screen logic module.
You can always buy one now, and add the other later, or not. It's all pretty easy DIY, if you're handy with wire and such. The only thing you have to remember for sure is to turn all the circuit breakers to all your pool gear to off before messing with wiring up ScreenLogic or anything else. Messing with the low-voltage wires and ports with the power on is a surefire way to fry your ET.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I DIY automated with Pentair products about 8 years ago. Wrote this article about it. Hope it helps
 

Attachments

  • Di y pool automation (3).pdf
    2.1 MB · Views: 3
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.