What it probably means is you are killing off the algae since you are at SLAM levels and you don't see as much because you don't have as much.
as @mknauss sez.. just keep watching the chem numbers. the fact that you are getting less detritus is a good thing, but plantonic algae is microscopic so you won't see it at the onset of a bloom. And by the same token, at the end. So keep up the SLAM until there is no more drop in CL levels that can be attributed to it. Hope that makes sense.THANK YOU! AND AGAIN THANK YOU! So few people will take the time and answer every question asked, directly. Thank you!
One follow up comment and question that I neglected to mention above. I brushed the pool last night and this morning. Couldn't see much last night, but this morning, first the pool looked clean in that there weren't collections of dead algae, you know the stuff that looks like little piles of sand anywhere in the pool; and second, when I was brushing this morning, there was very minimal algae that I could see coming off the walls. So does that mean that I don't so much have algae problem but rather some other organics/contaminants in the water and that's what I'm trying to get rid of with the SLAM process?
It's never another "organics" issue.So.. your probably looking for an answer in terms of volume.. (this many cups, 1/2 a gallon, etc)... we we'all talk in terms of ppm because we don't know how big your pool is. (Well I suppose we do in your signature, but we are all a lazy lot, and we'll let you do the calculation)., So use the PoolMath app to calculate how much CL to add for you volume of pool.
It's never another "organics" issue.
You see algea, you got algae.
No, once you eradicate algae, then maintain TFP guidelines (always aim for target, if not +1ppm) you'll be fine.
Getting past the hurdle of a problematic water chemistry issue, seems daunting. But the future is clean and clear and fraught with relatively nothing.
I realize it sounds daunting at the moment, but you'll be on your way to a trouble free pool in no time. Please heed all the advice you get here to get to that goal.
Your logs are a bit inadequate to check into.
Chances are that you went below minimum, and that spiraled into what you're dealing with now.
Log all your additions, notes, and test results into Pool Math. That will better help us to help you.
To answer your Q... yes. any pool can be a salt water pool. You just need to add a SWCG. It is somewhat helpful if you don't enjoy pouring a few cups of bleach into your pool every night.
Me... I'm ok with that.
How old is the liquid chlorine your using? You could be dumping in loads of bad/old chlorine that won't help much.
Yep I got that figured out. I scored a ton of it about a month-month and a half ago at ollie's discount store. The stuff was running out when this all started a week or so ago. They're not selling it any more as of right now Resorted to picking up Pool Essentials stuff from Walmart (Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid - Walmart.com) and then the big 5 Gal Jug from Leslie's--at least figured their stuff shouldn't be old.Quite honestly, the most recent bleach will be in the bargain bleach section of any store.
Learn to read the dates. First is the year. Second number is the days into the year.
So a date of 19 186 is about.... Now.
Honestly... your pool will never be a "dead" body of water. There is always going to be biological contributions from the outside setting. So in strict terms your pool will ALWAYS have residual "something" in it. Keeping the FC levels constant helps control that.. but you have to consider the environment.. Did you just have a pool party? Did a wind just blow a bunch of leaves in it? Then there is more potential organic contribution to your pool and you have to adjust your FC to compensate... it's not static, its dynamic.Thanks! ...
Maybe I should look into an SWG. Can any pool be converted to an SWG pool? What a very very general idea of the cost?
No.THIS IS MY QUESTION. SHOULD I FOLLOW LESLIE’S ADVICE TO ADD PHOSFree to the pool?
It doesn't surprise me at all. The testing procedure at Leslie's is about as sloppy as I have ever seen. They never rinse out the test cells with Distilled water., the don't even rinse with your own sample.. they just start testing after the last guy. Of all the tests the phosphates is the most sensitive as it measures in parts per Billion. So if the last guy had high phosphates.. its likely it will show up in your sample....
PHOSPHATES: 300 <== THIS IS MY QUESTION. SHOULD I FOLLOW LESLIE’S ADVICE TO ADD PHOSFree to the pool? Should I do something else? Any other advice?
PS: when I had a difference Leslie’s store test the water 5 days ago, Phosphates were 0.
THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP AND TIME!