What it probably means is you are killing off the algae since you are at SLAM levels and you don't see as much because you don't have as much.
HELP. After months of Trouble Free Pool using liquid chlorine, suddenly NO CHLORINE in pool no matter what I do.
- Thread starter k.alexander
- Start date
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
as @mknauss sez.. just keep watching the chem numbers. the fact that you are getting less detritus is a good thing, but plantonic algae is microscopic so you won't see it at the onset of a bloom. And by the same token, at the end. So keep up the SLAM until there is no more drop in CL levels that can be attributed to it. Hope that makes sense.
It's never another "organics" issue.So.. your probably looking for an answer in terms of volume.. (this many cups, 1/2 a gallon, etc)... we we'all talk in terms of ppm because we don't know how big your pool is. (Well I suppose we do in your signature, but we are all a lazy lot, and we'll let you do the calculation)., So use the PoolMath app to calculate how much CL to add for you volume of pool.
You see algea, you got algae.
I guess what I don't understand is am I ever supposed to get to a point where I have No Algae for prolonged periods of time in my pool or is it more of a situation where there are always minimal/trace amounts of it, and I'm just keeping it from getting worse with chlorine? I guess an analogous form of a question would be: is it a disease that can be irradiated or is it a virus that's always present but kept under control (btw I am in no way a doctor, not sure why I came up with that analogy
)
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
I've never had (visible) algae in my pool. I've either manually added liquid chlorine every day or every other day until I got a SWCG and it runs 24/7 on low continuously adding a little bit of chlorine. I've never SLAMmed my pool.
No, once you eradicate algae, then maintain TFP guidelines (always aim for target, if not +1ppm) you'll be fine.
Getting past the hurdle of a problematic water chemistry issue, seems daunting. But the future is clean and clear and fraught with relatively nothing.
I realize it sounds daunting at the moment, but you'll be on your way to a trouble free pool in no time. Please heed all the advice you get here to get to that goal.
Getting past the hurdle of a problematic water chemistry issue, seems daunting. But the future is clean and clear and fraught with relatively nothing.
I realize it sounds daunting at the moment, but you'll be on your way to a trouble free pool in no time. Please heed all the advice you get here to get to that goal.
Thanks! Cause honestly I was beginning to loose hope with the whole TFP method. I mean it is a PIA to be adding what is effectively 1/2-1gal of 10% liquid chlorine EVERY DAY. I was doing it, every day or every other day for the last month or two, and everything was fine (in retrospect the pool walls most of the time looked ALMOST completely algae free, but I guess not 100% algae free) but then like I said, I hit a wall (figuratively speaking, pun not intended
), where all of a sudden it didn't matter how much chlorine I added, FC, CC, and TC would be 0 when checked later in the day.Maybe I should look into an SWG. Can any pool be converted to an SWG pool? What a very very general idea of the cost?
Your logs are a bit inadequate to check into.
Chances are that you went below minimum, and that spiraled into what you're dealing with now.
Log all your additions, notes, and test results into Pool Math. That will better help us to help you.
To answer your Q... yes. any pool can be a salt water pool. You just need to add a SWCG. It is somewhat helpful if you don't enjoy pouring a few cups of bleach into your pool every night.
Me... I'm ok with that.
Chances are that you went below minimum, and that spiraled into what you're dealing with now.
Log all your additions, notes, and test results into Pool Math. That will better help us to help you.
To answer your Q... yes. any pool can be a salt water pool. You just need to add a SWCG. It is somewhat helpful if you don't enjoy pouring a few cups of bleach into your pool every night.
Me... I'm ok with that.
How old is the liquid chlorine your using? You could be dumping in loads of bad/old chlorine that won't help much.
Oly
Gold Supporter
Algae is everywhere and will always be attempting to reproduce in your pool. Maintaining proper FC leves keeps that from happening. Get behind or slack off your sanitation program for very long in the right conditions you witness a population explosion.
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
You're not going to believe this; I feed my cats 3 times a day! That's way easier than feeding a pool!
Cost wise it basically works out to this, do you want to buy all of your chlorine for the next 5 years now (and skip the hassle of manually adding it) or do you want to buy your chlorine as you need it and manually add it? In dollar amounts, you're looking at ~$1000. You'll want one that's rated for at least 2x your pool size so 50kgallons+
Cost wise it basically works out to this, do you want to buy all of your chlorine for the next 5 years now (and skip the hassle of manually adding it) or do you want to buy your chlorine as you need it and manually add it? In dollar amounts, you're looking at ~$1000. You'll want one that's rated for at least 2x your pool size so 50kgallons+
Oh wow, I had no idea other members could see my Pool Math Logs. Cool! I can only do them on the App right, can't do them on the website? I think I need to upgrade to Premium to store more logs, didn't really see a need in storing more in the past, will look into it.
That was my initial thought as well, but as per my original post, not only is the liquid chlorine not old per manufacturer date, I've also now (in the last week) gotten it from three different places to make sure it's not old/expired. Plus my FC levels clearly go up shortly after adding the stuff, so doesn't that also mean that the chlorine I'm adding isn't old?
Quite honestly, the most recent bleach will be in the bargain bleach section of any store.
Learn to read the dates. First is the year. Second number is the days into the year.
So a date of 19 186 is about.... Now.
Learn to read the dates. First is the year. Second number is the days into the year.
So a date of 19 186 is about.... Now.
Yep I got that figured out. I scored a ton of it about a month-month and a half ago at ollie's discount store. The stuff was running out when this all started a week or so ago. They're not selling it any more as of right now
Resorted to picking up Pool Essentials stuff from Walmart (Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid - Walmart.com) and then the big 5 Gal Jug from Leslie's--at least figured their stuff shouldn't be old.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Honestly... your pool will never be a "dead" body of water. There is always going to be biological contributions from the outside setting. So in strict terms your pool will ALWAYS have residual "something" in it. Keeping the FC levels constant helps control that.. but you have to consider the environment.. Did you just have a pool party? Did a wind just blow a bunch of leaves in it? Then there is more potential organic contribution to your pool and you have to adjust your FC to compensate... it's not static, its dynamic.
I am a huge proponent of SWG's... I retrofitted my 90's era pool back in 2005 with one and its been the best investment I ever made. It even makes the chem maintenance easier IMHO.
Ok, so update. Did SLAM over the last few days. Have now satisfied all three requirements / test of SLAM.
I know, I know, I should stay out of Leslie’s, but went there to get some more liquid chlorine as the discount store I was getting it from doesn’t carry it right now, and also Leslie’s price after coupon actually works out to be cheaper. Anyways, had them run the water test, results:
FAC: 3
TAC: 3
CH: 300
CYA: 40
TA: 90
pH: 7.6
Copper: 0
Iron: 0
Total Dissolved Solids: 1400
PHOSPHATES: 300 <== THIS IS MY QUESTION. SHOULD I FOLLOW LESLIE’S ADVICE TO ADD PHOSFree to the pool? Should I do something else? Any other advice?
PS: when I had a difference Leslie’s store test the water 5 days ago, Phosphates were 0.
THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP AND TIME!
I know, I know, I should stay out of Leslie’s, but went there to get some more liquid chlorine as the discount store I was getting it from doesn’t carry it right now, and also Leslie’s price after coupon actually works out to be cheaper. Anyways, had them run the water test, results:
FAC: 3
TAC: 3
CH: 300
CYA: 40
TA: 90
pH: 7.6
Copper: 0
Iron: 0
Total Dissolved Solids: 1400
PHOSPHATES: 300 <== THIS IS MY QUESTION. SHOULD I FOLLOW LESLIE’S ADVICE TO ADD PHOSFree to the pool? Should I do something else? Any other advice?
PS: when I had a difference Leslie’s store test the water 5 days ago, Phosphates were 0.
THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP AND TIME!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,262
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
It doesn't surprise me at all. The testing procedure at Leslie's is about as sloppy as I have ever seen. They never rinse out the test cells with Distilled water., the don't even rinse with your own sample.. they just start testing after the last guy. Of all the tests the phosphates is the most sensitive as it measures in parts per Billion. So if the last guy had high phosphates.. its likely it will show up in your sample.
The guy did do a very quick rinse of some, can’t say all, of his testing bottles/tubes with my water. But I am sure what you’re saying above is correct. Thanks again!