Help a newbie diagnose pump issues

[HillCountryAgua]

I moved into a new (to me) house with a pool. It’s a pool with a spa, about 18K gallons, according to my rough estimates. It has a Jandy 2HP ePump, a Jandy CL460 cartridge filter, and a Jandy Caretaker in-floor cleaning system. I recently learned how to access the iAquaLink 2.0 programming software.

One of the issues I troubleshooted recently was that the pump would not turn on and off according to the schedule on iAquaLink. One recommendation I found online was to clear the memory and reprogram it, which I did earlier today.

Tonight I noticed some issues with the pool pump, and I’m not sure whether it has to do with me reprogramming the system. The pump’s pressure is about double (20 psi) what it usually is (8-10 psi), even at lower speeds. I can’t feel any pressure coming from return jets. The spillover from the spa into the pool, which runs when the pump is running, would surge and retreat, and then by the end of the evening, there wasn’t much spillover at all. Just a trickle.

I installed new cartridges last week in the filter, and tonight I cleaned the skimmers and pump strainer. Nothing seemed to help.

Any ideas on what to try next? I’m worried about not being able to circulate the water in this 100-degree Texas heat.

 

[ajw22]

Sounds like you have algae in your pool that is clogging your filter.

Clean your filter again and see if it restores your flow.

If so you need to follow our SLAM Process to clear the algae.

Post your water chemistry from your TF-Pro int he format...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

How do you chlorinate your pool?

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[HillCountryAgua]

Sounds like you have algae in your pool that is clogging your filter.

Clean your filter again and see if it restores your flow.

If so you need to follow our SLAM Process to clear the algae.

Post your water chemistry from your TF-Pro int he format...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

How do you chlorinate your pool?

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Here are the results of my testing:
FC - 6
CC - 0
PH - 8.4 (yikes)
TA - 150
CH - 325
CYA - 90+

I just took over maintenance duties from the previous owner’s pool guy, and I only ever saw him use chlorine tablets, so I assume that’s why the CYA is so high. I added a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine last week, which raised the chlorine from 5 to 6. Probably needs another gallon to get it to 7 (the low end of adequate, given the high CYA). I need to do a partial drain to get the CYA down though. I’ve been struggling with getting the pH down. I’ve added about two quarts of 29% muriatic acid (gradually over several days), but it hasn’t even touched the pH or alkalinity.

Anyway, back to the pump issues. I checked the filter cartridges. They look clean and new still, so I don’t think I have an algae problem. One thing I have learned since my initial post is that, for some reason unknown to me, when I turn the filter pump on, it returns to the in-floor cleaning system (IFCS) instead of the pool wall returns. This is true even if the IFCS is turned off in the iAquaLink web program and even if the IFCS is set to “Disabled” under System Setup.

Here are a few pictures of my equipment, including close-ups from left to right. I have labeled the items for which I can read the labels but have questions about others.

Whole system:


Output plumbing:


Intake plumbing:


Water feature pump and auto fill line:


If I’m reading the valve actuators correctly, it seems that the pool return is closed off and water is being directed to the in-floor cleaning system. This possibly explains the higher PSI on the filter as well as the lack of water going to the wall returns. Any ideas on how to fix it?

 

[ajw22]

FC of 7 is not adequate. It is teetering on the edge of the cliff. Get your FC up to 10-12.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

And once your FC is over 10 the pH test becomes invalid. So check the pH when your FC dips down to 8-9.

With your CYA 90+ you should do the dilution test....

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
3. Shake briefly to mix.
4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further then apply these ratios:

Pool water	Tap or distilled water	Multiply result by
1	1	2
1	2	3
1	4	5

Note that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the range of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips in how to read the test results.

 

[HillCountryAgua]

Thank you, I will do that.

As far as the pump goes—and I apologize for the very basic question—do you know how I can switch the return to go from the in-floor cleaning system to the pool return, as shown in the picture? Sometimes the valves adjust automatically (for example when switching to spa mode), and so I’m not sure if I can manually turn them. I don’t want to break anything. But I prefer that the filtered water go through the pool returns instead of the in-floor cleaning system, because the former has a higher flow rate and lower PSI when the filter is on.

 

[ajw22]

We need to understand the operation of your Aqualink system. I have not seen one with a IFCS.

What Aqualink control panel do you have? iAqualink? One Touch? All Button?

@proavia may have ideas.

 

[proavia]

My guess - and it's only a guess at this point - is you have 2 water distribution valves for the IFCS. One for the spa and one for the pool.

Please provide pics of the water valve(s) for the IFCS. Also provide pictures from a few different angles of the pool equipment pad so we can better see how it is plumbed.

The manual 3-way Jandy valve below the automated "Floor Cleaner" valve can be manually adjusted to send return water to either of the 2 lines with question marks on them. The automated valve floor cleaner valve will need to be in a position to send water to the infloor so you can see what changing the position of that lower valve does.

If you don't use the IFCS, how will the pool floor get cleaned? Are you planning to manually vacuum?
The IFCS is OFF in your second picture. Since it's on an electrically actuated valve, I believe the Aqualink has a schedule or circuit set to cycle thru the IFCS for 'x' hours per day. With an IFCS, the pressure at a given pump RPM will be higher than the pressure when using the Return line. The pump RPM will probably increase when the IFCS is scheduled to run - because the IFCS needs a higher RPM to properly clean.

There are ways to manually cause an automated valve to turn to the opposite limit and then to have it remain at that limit. I'll let someone better versed in automation explain how to do that.

Allen (@ajw22 ) can walk you thru checking the Aqualink to see what schedules are set and how to adjust them or add more.

I suggest you remove the dead weeds/grass from anywhere near the equipment pad. The pump motors and the heater can generate enough heat to start them on fire.

 

[wireform]

There are ways to manually cause an automated valve to turn to the opposite limit and then to have it remain at that limit. I'll let someone better versed in automation explain how to do that.

The underside of the actuator valve has a switch with 3 positions. One setting will let the valve move outside the programed position from where it's now. Let it go to the position you need and the move the switch back to hold it there.