I'm considering raising my CYA by adding 20 ounces of liquid stabilizer as suggested by the pool calculator. This will get me from 15 to 30. Is this advisable mid-SLAM?
Hello!
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The cloudiness is completely gone and the water is starting to sparkle. I'm getting close. I vacuumed again this morning and the amount was definitely less compared to yesterday. Work has interfered in this process as my hours are 4pm - Midnight with rotating days off not to mention OT mixed in here and there. Just after midnight this morning I tested and dosed and then re-tested an hour later for a FC level of 13. I couldn't be bothered to get up this morning to test before the sun got on it. At 11am the FC was 9.5. I dosed to raise to 13 and then again at 1pm. Presently I'm at work again. I've been adding bleach to raise FC a little higher than recommended levels to somewhat offset the infrequent testing. I'm hoping by Tuesday (which will be a complete week of SLAMming) that the pool will pass the OCLT. Regarding my low CYA level, should I just wait until the SLAM is completed before adjusting?
Absolutely. You'll use quite a bit less chlorine.
Once your SLAM is complete (You're close and you have a very good understanding of the process) you can make a decision to bring CYA up to around 40-50 or you may decide you don't have enough swim season left and choose to leave CYA right where it is. Either way works.
Hey! In preparation for another swim season here in VT I came to the site looking for a suggestion that I read here last year but now cannot find as it seems the site underwent a mild re-design. I have a seasonal/temporary pool of 3800 gallons that I have purchased a new SWG to maintain chlorine. The suggestion I am unable to locate mentioned to use several (?) pucks of either trichlor or dichlor after setting up your pool and filling with water. The idea was to give the SWG a head start since it builds chlorine levels so slowly while also providing the very important correct amount of 70 - 80 CYA. I have read the following articles:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/155-guide-for-seasonal-temporary-pools
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/127-salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/138-water-balance-for-swg-saltwater-chlorine-generator
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry
If some one could provide the specifics of which one to use and how many I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/155-guide-for-seasonal-temporary-pools
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/127-salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/138-water-balance-for-swg-saltwater-chlorine-generator
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry
If some one could provide the specifics of which one to use and how many I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks.
Test your levels and then use PoolMath to calculate how much Dichlor or how many 8oz Trichlor tablets you need to use too raise the CYA to the desired level. Of course not all at once.
Although you may need to SLAM before you add CYA if your water is not clear
Although you may need to SLAM before you add CYA if your water is not clear
Pool won't be set up for another couple weeks. What is the difference between dichlor and trichlor. Is one better than the other for the application I'm speaking of? Is trichlor the one available in pucks? Thanks.
Your questions are all answered in Pool School ... Trichlor is pucks, Dichlor is powder and dissolves faster.
After reading over some other threads I've decided to use bleach and cya instead of the dichlor or trichlor. So once the pool gets filled up add the recommended level of salt, enough bleach to measure 2ppm, and enough stabilizer to measure 50ppm. Let the pump run for 24 hours before turning on the SWG. Then basically maintain chlorine at 2ppm until all the stabilizer has dissolved at which time adjust based on the chlorine/cya chart. After a week add more stabilizer to bring up to 70. At what point during this process should I begin to adjust pH, TA and CH levels? Thanks very much!
Test for everything to start and post them up.
CH does not matter for vinyl pools, likely ignore adjusting TA for now, pH should be adjusted as required all the time.
CH does not matter for vinyl pools, likely ignore adjusting TA for now, pH should be adjusted as required all the time.
Careful, there, Jason.
LOW CH doesn't matter for vinyl pools. High CH could still cause scaling.
Pool went up today and it's almost filled. I am using well water to fill it. The color is decidedly greenish but transparent. pH is 7.5, TA is 140 and CH is 120. I also did the copper procedure for CH and got 110. I added 23 ounces of 8.25% bleach per pool calculator. I had a water analysis performed yesterday in an unrelated matter and the results were: Hardness 14 gpg, Iron 1.0 ppm, pH 7.5, Sulfur 0ppm and TDS 142 ppm. I also added 100 lbs of salt per Intex and have only the pump running at this time. I will dose with stabilizer tomorrow and aim for 50 ppm. Pool temperature is a frigid 53°. Any thoughts on the green tinge?
The green tinge is the yellow-orange rust against the blue pool. Expect it to worsen when you really get FC level going. It might even precipitate into rust dust, which is a good thing, because that will filter out and can be backwashed away. Check out the pictures in this thread. Don't forget page two. You might even want to read it.
Thanks! I skimmed over the other thread but will read over more closely tomorrow. So, in a nut shell, is the only solution for the rust pump time? I don't have a skimmer basket as it's just an Intex pool. I did up grade to the Unicell cartridge. This should help, no? Are there any other considerations to take into account? I plan on dosing with stabilizer tomorrow, adding some more bleach and then starting up the swg on Thursday.
Water is very green. The filter cartridge is pulling iron out of the water. Will this eventually remove all the iron? Will the presence of the iron have any affects on the addition of the stabilizer? Also, the PoolMath says 26 ounces of stabilizer by weight for a target of 50 ppm CYA. Can I measure this out in a container and it will be accurate enough? Thanks.
I doubt you will remove all the iron. Even municipal water systems with the best equipment and techniques can't remove all of it from drinking water. Once the filter stops loading up with rust, you've reached the end of precipitation, and then you need a sequestrant. You could add it now, and stop that, but I've always like the idea of physically removing anything before trying chemicals. The recommended sequestrants are named here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/137-metals-in-the-water-and-metal-stains
If iron was chocolate, Sequestrants will be the hard candy shell on an M&M.
If iron was chocolate, Sequestrants will be the hard candy shell on an M&M.
Thanks a lot, Richard. :lol: Trying to get the M&M pic out of my head
:tasty:
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Yes. It is about 3 cups.
Sooo...Just now while reading over the owner's manual for the new Intex SWG I came across an insert detailing their recommended process to restore greenish water to clear water using the SWG. Seems they must have been receiving some complaints. The most important part of the procedure...do not add CYA "as this will slowdown the sanitation time of the device, thus taking longer to restore pool water clarity." Hmmph, guess I suck because I went and added 26 ounces today. The manual shows a treatment time of 6-10 days using the SWG paired with the cartridge filter pump. With stabilizer at 30ppm they recommend replacing the water. At this point the only thing I have going in my favor is I'm using bleach. I had planned to start up the SWG tomorrow but will be putting that off. At this point in terms of cost I've got 2.5 bags of salt, about 1/3 bottle of stabilizer and 1/2 bottle of bleach into the pool. Should I just buck up and pay $200 for some delivered water?
I did have water delivered last year and it must of had some metals in it cause it did go green after starting the SWG but nothing like this year. I opted not to have water trucked in this year because the first year it did the same thing but was I able to clear it up so the cost for delivered water seemed unnecessary if the green water problem still occurred with the delivered water. I think the difference this year was the big dose of bleach right at the start compared to the smaller dosing with the SWG. Opinions anyone?
I did have water delivered last year and it must of had some metals in it cause it did go green after starting the SWG but nothing like this year. I opted not to have water trucked in this year because the first year it did the same thing but was I able to clear it up so the cost for delivered water seemed unnecessary if the green water problem still occurred with the delivered water. I think the difference this year was the big dose of bleach right at the start compared to the smaller dosing with the SWG. Opinions anyone?
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I have been running the pump almost non-stop since the pool went up six days ago and the green color from the iron is gone. I haven't run the SWG yet as I've opted to use bleach until the resolution of the iron issue. I added 26 ounces of stabilizer last Thursday but haven't tested yet. The sock method worked perfectly. I believe I remember reading that the addition of stabilizer will raise pH as it tests at 8.2 right now and before adding it was 7.5. After determining how much stabilizer is in the water should I go ahead and add muriatic acid after that to adjust pH down? Or should I add more stabilizer first to target 70ppm and then lower pH after that? Thanks.
Stabilizer will lower that pH some, not raise it. Lower you pH now and add more CYA if needed.