Hello, please help me get rid of green algae!
- Thread starter novata
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,753
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Is that 2 bottle caps? How many ounces? If under 8 ounces it should not hamper your ability to use chlorine too much.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,753
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Do not use anymore. Dispose of that product. If you add any more your pool will be a bromine pool and you will need to substantially drain it to recover it.
Hello,
Today's values are as follow:
Today's values are as follow:
| Date | 5/29/2020 | 5/29/2020 @ 11:45pm | 5/30/2020 | 5/31/2020 | 6/1/2020 |
| Time | 11:45 AM | 10:43 AM | 2:44PM | ||
| FC | 0.4 | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.6 | 0.4 |
| CC | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.6 | 0.6 | 0.4 |
| pH | <7.0 | 7.4 | 7.2 | 7.1 | 7.3 |
| base demand | 9 drops | ||||
| total alkalinity CaCO3 | 90 | 125 | 100 | 150 | 125 |
| calcium hardness | 270 | 250 | 250 | 275 | 250 |
| cya | 75 | 80 | 65 | 70 |
- May 3, 2014
- 58,753
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So what do you need? You said your water turned green when you added chlorine. That is normally iron. Your CYA is high for a non-SWCG pool. Your chlorine is very low. You need to add chlorine. Now.
Thank you for your replies. I'm sorry I didn't ask a question (I probably hit post without my question). I have my kit and I've been reading at least twice a day. The water color continues to be turquoise, and cloudy. I'm starting to see the floor in the shallow parts of the pool. I'm adding liquid chlorine daily according to the CYA chart reaching shock target level. Also brushing the pool continuously after each addition of chlorine. I continue noticing the water turning green after each addition of chlorine, but the water turns back to its before chlorine addition color after 20-30 minutes. I'd like to know how I can address the cloudiness of the pool. And if the rest of parameters are OK, so my pool will be clear and clean soon. Thank you.
PS: In addition I'd like to know if there is a better way to obtain the value of CYA. I've tried multiple times and with different people and all the readings are different. If the CYA value is very important for this SLAMing process, is there a more precise way to get the value or it just take time and experience?. Thanks
PS: In addition I'd like to know if there is a better way to obtain the value of CYA. I've tried multiple times and with different people and all the readings are different. If the CYA value is very important for this SLAMing process, is there a more precise way to get the value or it just take time and experience?. Thanks
Last edited:
- May 3, 2014
- 58,753
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Ok. Cloudy needs to be dealt with first. Do not keep testing CYA. It appears yours is 70. The test is a difficult one but from your data that seems to be a reasonable level.
How many times per day are you raising your FC level back to SLAM level? Should be a minimum of 3-4 times per day. Keep that up.
Have you cleaned your filter lately? Was curious if it was brown meaning iron.
How many times per day are you raising your FC level back to SLAM level? Should be a minimum of 3-4 times per day. Keep that up.
Have you cleaned your filter lately? Was curious if it was brown meaning iron.
I've been adding every 6 - 8 hours. I have two sets of filters. So, the pool has been circulating continuously. I've change the filters at least once a day,Each time the filters came up green. What should I do for cloudiness ? Thanks in advance!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,753
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Cloudiness goes away with SLAM level FC and filtering.
The FC levels you show in your chart above, are you seeing that much loss between testing? If so, you need to test and add a lot more per day.
The FC levels you show in your chart above, are you seeing that much loss between testing? If so, you need to test and add a lot more per day.
Hello again,
I have a problem reading the FC. After an hour of adding 4 gallons (12%) of chlorine to reach 28FC SLAM target, I ran into a problem with testing. I used 10mL, and after the water turned pink with two dippers of the reactive powder, I started the drops of R-0871 but the water did not change to colorless. I stopped adding drops around 80-count, the water was almost dark orange. According to those drops am I at >40? My kit is brand new...what am I doing wrong? or did I add too much chlorine?
I have a problem reading the FC. After an hour of adding 4 gallons (12%) of chlorine to reach 28FC SLAM target, I ran into a problem with testing. I used 10mL, and after the water turned pink with two dippers of the reactive powder, I started the drops of R-0871 but the water did not change to colorless. I stopped adding drops around 80-count, the water was almost dark orange. According to those drops am I at >40? My kit is brand new...what am I doing wrong? or did I add too much chlorine?
Last edited:
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 2,969
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yes you are high, we suggest you test with 5ml sample using one scoop of powder. Each drop =1ppm of FC. Do not test anything else while in slam.
What was your FC level before your added the 4 gallons? According to pool math, you added 28ppm of FC. If that was your target did you start at FC of 0?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,934
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Maybe u got an extra strong batch of lc? Re check later as if it really is that high its gotta be consumed & fall naturally anyway- & like Tivo said use a 5ml sample w/ 1 scoop - each drop equals 1ppm - save that reagent for later in the slam when the fc is holding better.
Good morning,
The pool is clearly close to be good. I can see for the first time today (faintly) the pool bottom, still very cloudy.
I've retested today with 5mL and 1 scoop of powder. The sample turned bright pink. And around 19 drops turned to faint orange and I continued adding drops (I stopped around 25) since the color didn't change at all. More or less the same happened yesterday night, the color turned from pink to this orange shade color and never changed to colorless. So, should I assume that I'm between 19-? FC? Should I dump more chlorine assuming this value ? I'll recheck later again.
The pool is clearly close to be good. I can see for the first time today (faintly) the pool bottom, still very cloudy.
I've retested today with 5mL and 1 scoop of powder. The sample turned bright pink. And around 19 drops turned to faint orange and I continued adding drops (I stopped around 25) since the color didn't change at all. More or less the same happened yesterday night, the color turned from pink to this orange shade color and never changed to colorless. So, should I assume that I'm between 19-? FC? Should I dump more chlorine assuming this value ? I'll recheck later again.
Last edited:
- May 3, 2014
- 58,753
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Check that you are using the correct reagents for the FC test.
Powder is R0870. Reagent is R0871.
www.troublefreepool.com
Powder is R0870. Reagent is R0871.
FAS-DPD Chlorine Test
The FAS-DPD chlorine test is used to find the level of Free Chlorine in the … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com