Hello, I need Help!

At this time of year, with frequent heavy rain and/or strong sun, an exchange is a better method. Read that section in the article. You do need a low power sump pump to make it happen. Available from Harbor Freight, Amazon, etc.

Not sure what brushing the pool was meant to do. When doing the exchange, you turn off the main pool pump and keep the water as still as possible.
 
I was also told to brush the pebble tech about five times. Is this correct?
Not sure about that amount or what frequency was noted, but brush once or twice a week and you should be good. Pay particular attention to areas with poor water circulation.
 
Ok guys. Thanks for the help and I will definitely need help once I get this going. I want to get it right this time. Did y’all see the pick of the inside of the speed stir? I haven’t lost my mind have I. Thee is no place for the batteries?
 
Ok guys. Thanks for the help and I will definitely need help once I get this going. I want to get it right this time. Did y’all see the pick of the inside of the speed stir? I haven’t lost my mind have I. Thee is no place for the batteries?
Can you put that together and take a photo of the top and back? I struggle to think the batteries are that difficult to replace but I too don’t see where they go.
 
There are people on this forum much better placed than me to help. Just to say I’m new to pool ownership and it can seem like a massively complex thing but the TFP method really does work. It will take a little bit of time to get there but this forum is great for getting that help step by step.

In your earlier post you seem worried about high Cl. There is a relationship between CYA and Cl which TFP have got mapped here (Chlorine / CYA Chart - Trouble Free Pool). The higher your CYA the higher the target chlorine level. For a CYA of 90 your target is 10 - 12 (most people target the higher end of that range) so 10.5 is right on the numbers.
You’ve been advised to lower the CYA, I think the reason is if you do have to SLAM then it’s prohibitive on cost of Cl required. It’s best to get yourself in a good place to start so I’d follow that advice. Don’t worry you are going to save yourself hundreds or even thousands of pool store or pool service dollars each year by following TFP.
 
It really appears to me that the battery tray is missing on the inside. Also, it looks like there is a recharging plug on the back that I didn’t get. Just trying to make sure I’m not overlooking something here? The pics show everything that came in the box.
 

Attachments

  • 29F166A2-674F-4785-95E5-4E0F2F3497A5.jpeg
    29F166A2-674F-4785-95E5-4E0F2F3497A5.jpeg
    425 KB · Views: 19
  • D5F30A1E-4694-488E-B5BF-5777CE7F9F68.jpeg
    D5F30A1E-4694-488E-B5BF-5777CE7F9F68.jpeg
    586.6 KB · Views: 19
  • 138B19F2-74AA-4878-9B97-5990A3BEEBB9.jpeg
    138B19F2-74AA-4878-9B97-5990A3BEEBB9.jpeg
    604.6 KB · Views: 19
I just also wanted to chime in and give some encouragement. I landed here after spending hundreds of dollars at the pool store to try and clear up an iron stain multiple times.

I’ve been doing the methods on this site for a year now, and my pool has never looked better.

you’re at the right place. It may take a little work at first to get a trouble free pool, but you’ll get there.

the articles here are fantastic. I learned a ton by reading those (some of them multiple times lol)
 
Yes, that is my hope. I really feel like the pool company never checked my levels they simply shocked, emptied baskets, and put chlorine tabs in chlorinator (way too many may I add. Water is stupid expensive where I live so I have to get it right this time. Thanks for the encouragement and people are Great to provide their knowledge to help out!
 
  • Like
Reactions: BoringDamo
It really appears to me that the battery tray is missing on the inside. Also, it looks like there is a recharging plug on the back that I didn’t get. Just trying to make sure I’m not overlooking something here? The pics show everything that came in the box.
I’ve never seen one with the charging part like it appears yours has? On mine if you unscrew that small screw the batteries go into there??
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Let the new water mix for about 45 min before grabbing a sample to test. In the meantime, you know new water has no CYA in it, so once full you can get a sock soaking with stabilizer for that CYA target. I don't recall if you had algae. If you do, only take the CYA up to 30 in preparation to wrap-up a quick SLAM. If there is no algae, then increase the CYA to about 50 for a TX summer (non-salt pool). If yours is a salt pool, take it up 70. Please update your signature.

Once you run your first tests, focus on FC and pH. Get the pH in the 7.2 - 7.8 range, and add enough chlorine/bleach to get the FC to about 3 ppm on day one of fill, then balance the FC to the CYA you projected above as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.

We can help you with everything else after that.
 
Ok the pool is full again and here are my test results:
pH: 7.8
CI: 3
FC: 2.5
CC: None
CH: 375
TA: 150

Now I haven’t done the sock thing if someone could link a video for the CYA. I do not have algae and I have a Chlorine pool. I will be gone in the morning but returning afternoon to do what y’all suggest. Also, it is suppose to rain heavily all week here in the Houston area. Please tell me what to do next!
 
  • Like
Reactions: cledee
Below are the notes for CYA. A good TX summer-starting CYA goal would be 50 unless there is algae (30). Numbers above look good for clear water. How does the water look? I don't recall if you had any algae issues.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
 
Below are the notes for CYA. A good TX summer-starting CYA goal would be 50 unless there is algae (30). Numbers above look good for clear water. How does the water look? I don't recall if you had any algae issues.
No algae at all and water is clear. Is there a video for the sock and cya. Seems like I read it or saw the video but can’t find it. Also, my pump turns off around 9:30pm should I run it all night?
 
Ok, so I have another issue. I have no pool stabilizer, except 6 3”tablets (which I use to put in the chlorinator. I also have one more gallon of liquid chlorine I bought from Walmart. Will any of this do until I get back tomorrow in the late afternoon?
 
I wouldn't bother with the tabs for such a short period. Just add about 3 ppm worth of chlorine tomorrow morning, then add another 3 ppm as soon as you return. Once the stabilizer is in the water, keep the FC balanced to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.
 
Texas Splash, I know this is really dumb but what is 3ppm of chlorine? I have zero idea on that? And do you mean poor the liquid chlorine in tomorrow until I get the stabilizer in the sock method. I know that is a horrible question I just don’t want to mess this up.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.