We have a Hayward OmniLogic system and our company opened the pool yesterday. The longest we have been able to get the pump to run is 10 min and it just turns off. When the heater is on it trips the breaker. Our pool company is useless and who knows when they will be back. Any suggestions?
Heater tripping breaker
- Thread starter Fordpool
- Start date
Randrx2
Bronze Supporter
- Dec 13, 2018
- 436
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Can you elaborate more please?
Is the pump breaker tripping or is the pump just shutting off? Is there a timer for the pump? What size is the pump? Also, please provide a picture of the motor data for the pump.
For the heater, please provide a picture of the data for the heater.
Can you confirm which breaker is feeding the heater and which is feeding the pump?
We want to determine if it is faulty equipment or wiring or breaker.
Is the pump breaker tripping or is the pump just shutting off? Is there a timer for the pump? What size is the pump? Also, please provide a picture of the motor data for the pump.
For the heater, please provide a picture of the data for the heater.
Can you confirm which breaker is feeding the heater and which is feeding the pump?
We want to determine if it is faulty equipment or wiring or breaker.
In the second post I included pics of our equipment. The pump isn’t tripping breaker but will only run for 10min max and just turns off. We deleted all schedules and timers from system to rule that out. The heater does trip through breaker when they both are on. The pump and heater are on same breaker.
I
Attachments
Last edited:
Randrx2
Bronze Supporter
- Dec 13, 2018
- 436
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Do you have the model number of the heater or better yet the nameplate rating that shows the kW or amps of the heater?
Best case right now is that there is a timer buried somewhere in the program causing pump to turn off after 10 mins. Worst case is motor is tripping on internal overload due to heat buildup in motor. Is it exactly 10 mins?
Also, I am assuming that both your heater and pump are on the 20amp 2-pole breaker. Is that the case? If so, most likely the circuit is overloaded. The pump and heater should not be on the same breaker.
Best case right now is that there is a timer buried somewhere in the program causing pump to turn off after 10 mins. Worst case is motor is tripping on internal overload due to heat buildup in motor. Is it exactly 10 mins?
Also, I am assuming that both your heater and pump are on the 20amp 2-pole breaker. Is that the case? If so, most likely the circuit is overloaded. The pump and heater should not be on the same breaker.
Model number is h200fdn. I turned off the heater and and now the pump will turn off after 15 min instead of 10.
yes they are on same breaker. This is our 4th year with the pool and it's always been wired that way.
yes they are on same breaker. This is our 4th year with the pool and it's always been wired that way.
Last edited:
Sounds like two issues to me. Pump overheating, and something wet in the heater tripping the gfci breaker. Can't tell from the pics, is the ground around the heater wet? Is the pump louder than before, maybe making a grinding or squealing noise?
We got the pump working! But heater is still tripping gfci breaker. Should we try opening heater and checking inside? The ground is wet around and doesn’t get much light to dry the area up. I cleaned up all the wet leaves and debris.
Randrx2
Bronze Supporter
- Dec 13, 2018
- 436
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Just looked up your model heater and realized it is a gas heater. Looks like it pulls about 5.5 amps.
The pump is about 8.5 amps based on what I can find.
That is about 14 amps total. So now it makes sense that it is on a 20 amp breaker.
Possible that it is a bad GFCI breaker or an actual GFCI fault.
The hard part is that there is not a visual on the breaker to tell you if the breaker tripped on high current or GFCI. However, based on the current you should be drawing, it sounds like it is tripping on GFCI. So, either it is a real ground fault or a bad breaker.
Here is some troubleshooting. If you are uncomfortable with the following, please get a qualified electrician:
1. Verify the GFCI breaker is working properly. Turn on the breaker and press the “push to trip” button. Breaker should trip.
2. Turn off the power and ensure all your electrical connections are tight.
3. Disconnect the power to the heater and inspect the connections and inside of the heater. Make sure there are no wetted components.
3. Measure the current on the breaker. Get a clamp on ammeter and measure the current on the breaker. Also, if the meter has an inrush function, use that so you can see the current at startup of motor and heater. High current could be an indication that the motor may be seized up.
The pump is about 8.5 amps based on what I can find.
That is about 14 amps total. So now it makes sense that it is on a 20 amp breaker.
Possible that it is a bad GFCI breaker or an actual GFCI fault.
The hard part is that there is not a visual on the breaker to tell you if the breaker tripped on high current or GFCI. However, based on the current you should be drawing, it sounds like it is tripping on GFCI. So, either it is a real ground fault or a bad breaker.
Here is some troubleshooting. If you are uncomfortable with the following, please get a qualified electrician:
1. Verify the GFCI breaker is working properly. Turn on the breaker and press the “push to trip” button. Breaker should trip.
2. Turn off the power and ensure all your electrical connections are tight.
3. Disconnect the power to the heater and inspect the connections and inside of the heater. Make sure there are no wetted components.
3. Measure the current on the breaker. Get a clamp on ammeter and measure the current on the breaker. Also, if the meter has an inrush function, use that so you can see the current at startup of motor and heater. High current could be an indication that the motor may be seized up.
We had the pump and heater up and running for almost 2 wks without issues. Rained here again and now breaker is tripping immediately regardless of if heater is on. We called repair company but any ideas?
Randrx2
Bronze Supporter
- Dec 13, 2018
- 436
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
A couple ideas. You need to figure out if it is the pump, heater, or wiring.
Is something is getting wet in the heater, pump, or wiring. Does the GFCI trip without anything running? I.E. With just power applied to the motor and heater?
Turn off power. Disconnect the heater. Safe off the wires. Turn on power. Run the pump. Does it still trip? You can simulate rain with a hose. Don’t over do it with the “rain”. If the pump runs fine, then it is the heater. If it still trips, it is the pump or wire.
Check the wiring to the heater. You may need an electrician if you do not have an insulation testing meter. Basically, with the wiring disconnected from the heater, you will connect a lead to one hot wire and the ground. The tester will apply 500V to the wire. You are looking for a high reading here. Repeat for the 2nd wire. Then, with breaker open, check hot to hot. If wires check out okay, it is an issue with the heater.
Turn off power. Look for wetted electrical components inside the heater. Start with where the wires enter the heater. Then check the motor for any wetted components.
Is something is getting wet in the heater, pump, or wiring. Does the GFCI trip without anything running? I.E. With just power applied to the motor and heater?
Turn off power. Disconnect the heater. Safe off the wires. Turn on power. Run the pump. Does it still trip? You can simulate rain with a hose. Don’t over do it with the “rain”. If the pump runs fine, then it is the heater. If it still trips, it is the pump or wire.
Check the wiring to the heater. You may need an electrician if you do not have an insulation testing meter. Basically, with the wiring disconnected from the heater, you will connect a lead to one hot wire and the ground. The tester will apply 500V to the wire. You are looking for a high reading here. Repeat for the 2nd wire. Then, with breaker open, check hot to hot. If wires check out okay, it is an issue with the heater.
Turn off power. Look for wetted electrical components inside the heater. Start with where the wires enter the heater. Then check the motor for any wetted components.