Heater only coming on at certain RPM

TDTPool

Gold Supporter
Aug 13, 2022
100
Cartersville, Georgia
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I have a JXI400P Gas Heater and recently I've been having weird issues; most notably it isn't actually turning on. The app says it is, and the light is on, but the fan doesn't come on.

I've done some reading and it seems like it's probably pressure, so I swapped to a pump profile for 2750 RPM and it came on. I'm seeing a lot of diff results on what PSI or RPM is needed to make it work, but most say something in the lower 2ks (The default for Jandy is 2250), but also mention 30PSI; which I almost never have ~20-25 PSI; which the gauge says is 'clean'.

I plan on cleaning the filters (cartridge) this weekend as perhaps that is ruining some of my pressure, but I'm unsure if I should have Jandy come out to look at it, or if it's simpler.

My pool has 2 returns, 2 drains, and a skimmer. Drains+Skimmer are both open at equal pull. Returns are ~90% to the pool, 10% to the spa.

Someone also mentioned you should "ensure the valve to the heater is all the way closed" but I don't have a valve for it that I see; not a manual one anyway. Here are pics of the pad - For plumbing on most Ts the right side is 'spa', left side is pool. The weird manual valve in near direct middle is like that to ensure the spa always has "some" water returning, regardless of the actuator mode. Was a mistake by the builder, but I found a use for it.


Welcome any advice.
 
Do you get a "Check Flow" fault? Or any other error?
I saw this in another thread - Where would this error be? The heater screen only ever tells me that "Remote mode is on". Aqualink has no errors on the app, even in Web mode.

I also went through the Web -> "Info" screen and it shows NO ERRORS on that page.
 
Your filter is dirty and does not allow enough flow for the heater. Clean your filter, and you should be fine.

When was the last time you cleaned your filter?


I've done some reading and it seems like it's probably pressure, so I swapped to a pump profile for 2750 RPM and it came on. I'm seeing a lot of diff results on what PSI or RPM is needed to make it work, but most say something in the lower 2ks (The default for Jandy is 2250), but also mention 30PSI; which I almost never have ~20-25 PSI;

The PSI and RPM required depend on the pool equipment and plumbing. Every pool is unique.

which the gauge says is 'clean'.

The CLEAN indication on the gauge is meaningless.

Note your PSI at a RPM when the filter is clean.

The filter needs cleaning when the PSI increases by 20%-25% at that RPM.

I plan on cleaning the filters (cartridge) this weekend as perhaps that is ruining some of my pressure, but I'm unsure if I should have Jandy come out to look at it, or if it's simpler.

Waste of time and money to call Jandy out until after you clean your filter and see if it fixes the problem.

Someone also mentioned you should "ensure the valve to the heater is all the way closed" but I don't have a valve for it that I see; not a manual one anyway.

They are referring to a Heater Bypass - Further Reading which you do not have.

Please post your pictures to the forum in the future.

 
The filter needs cleaning when the PSI increases by 20%-25% at that RPM.

Interesting - I'll have to check what it shows after I clean it. If I recall brand new I was averaging ~20 at ~2250. I do expect the filters to be dirty - It's been ~2 months since I cleaned em and we had a bloom issue when the salt cell broke a while back.
They are referring to a Heater Bypass - Further Reading which you do not have.
Ahhh, this makes sense. I should have had it installed, I guess. Something I can add in a few months I guess.
 
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