Heater complications....

CE1CC468-93D9-4571-9AF2-B8903262A5D7.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 295A2CC1-30A1-40DB-B389-8D81A8AA217B.jpeg
    295A2CC1-30A1-40DB-B389-8D81A8AA217B.jpeg
    177.2 KB · Views: 7
  • 065B0457-1A0E-4BA2-B4CC-8B2635FDE55B.jpeg
    065B0457-1A0E-4BA2-B4CC-8B2635FDE55B.jpeg
    419.7 KB · Views: 6
  • CABD2612-845E-4F0F-98F3-7548C6D1CD94.jpeg
    CABD2612-845E-4F0F-98F3-7548C6D1CD94.jpeg
    435.9 KB · Views: 7
  • EE448D37-587D-4368-BAF9-C504D42D2D40.jpeg
    EE448D37-587D-4368-BAF9-C504D42D2D40.jpeg
    645 KB · Views: 8
  • 00FA6B86-B37F-438C-A34E-E5EA45ADBC48.jpeg
    00FA6B86-B37F-438C-A34E-E5EA45ADBC48.jpeg
    486.4 KB · Views: 21
I’m embarrassed by this heater I recently learned that is not the right vent it’s just a laundry dryer vent The stuff I don’t know about pools could fill ten pools View attachment 394967
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I see you have an Intellflo with its own timer.

Even if you put the heater on a timer you really need to coordinate the heater timer with the pump timer. You will still have the Water Pressure Switch problem if the IntelliFlo and heater timer get out of synch.

I suggest you consider putting in a Pentair IntelliConnect which can control both the IntelliFlo pump and the heater and your IntelliChlor SWG and will shut off the heater before the pump shuts off and will wait a few minutes after the pump starts before allowing the heater to start.

That is a great suggestion. I have work to do over the summer on this.
 
iChlor. When the pump is off for the night, the red light comes on that indicates no flow. It would seem that everything is dependant on the Running Schedule of the pump. ?

Your iChlor is incorrectly installed.

The iChlor Manual says - https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...tment/ichlor/ichlor-manual-522709-english.pdf

The iChlor 15 Power Supply must be interconnected with pool pump motor power source. This
ensures the iChlor SCG and pool pump will switch on and off together.


It should be connected to your IntelliFlo using SmartSense Flow Detection (Page 18):

SmartSense Flow Detection: Connecting the iChlor SCG to an IntelliFlo pump (stand-alone mode only)
SmartSense™ Flow Detection technology allows the connection of an IntelliFlo® Variable Speed Pump via RS-485
communication, to an iChlor® SCG power center while in stand-alone mode, by simply attaching the RS-485 cable
from the pump, to the RS-485 connector located in the iChlor Power Center (see iChlor Power Center Wiring Diagram at the bottom of the next page).

SmartSense is a safety feature that will continually monitor the status of the IntelliFlo pump before generating chlorine.

Note: Flow detection is only available when the iChlor is installed alongside a PC100 Power Center (P/N 520556).


The way your iCholor is installed it is at risk to explode if the flow switch fails and powers it while the pump is off. Get this fixed ASAP.

Here is one report - Explosion near the SWG

And another - Help,, my pipe exploded !!!
 
Last edited:
This heater does not look like it is installed properly. You already have an insufficient gas line.

Manual is at https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...stertemp/Manual-MasterTemp-472592-English.pdf

See page 29 - you have horizontal venting. The vent is not using the proper materials. The vent line is not connected using the recommended adapter.

The manual says:

The MasterTemp heater is a “Category III” appliance (which requires a four (4) inch special gas approved “Category III” vent pipe) and is a forced-draft pool and spa heater which uses positive pressure to push flue gases through the vent pipe to the outside. Flue gases under positive pressure may escape into the dwelling with any cracks or loose joints in the vent pipe, or improper vent installation. The vent pipe must be of a sealed-seam construction, such as those listed for use with “Category III Appliances”, and for operating temperatures less than 400°F (204°C). Vent pipe construction will be of UL 1738 approved non-corrosive material, such as stainless steel.

The pipe used does not look like 4" UL 1738 approved non-corrosive material, such as stainless steel.

Is this heater in a closed room and should it also have a combustion air supply vent as described on page 23?

Does this meet all clearances shown on page 22?

Does your heater have a five button or six button keypad?

Pentair_MasterTemp_Keypads.jpg


00fa6b86-b37f-438c-a34e-e5ea45adbc48-jpeg.394972
 
6 button.
Yes I recently was told the vent is all wrong. The clearances around the unit are fine. The room is closed with a large open vented door.

So much is wrong with this heater.
 
This heater does not look like it is installed properly. You already have an insufficient gas line.

Manual is at https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...stertemp/Manual-MasterTemp-472592-English.pdf

See page 29 - you have horizontal venting. The vent is not using the proper materials. The vent line is not connected using the recommended adapter.

The manual says:

The MasterTemp heater is a “Category III” appliance (which requires a four (4) inch special gas approved “Category III” vent pipe) and is a forced-draft pool and spa heater which uses positive pressure to push flue gases through the vent pipe to the outside. Flue gases under positive pressure may escape into the dwelling with any cracks or loose joints in the vent pipe, or improper vent installation. The vent pipe must be of a sealed-seam construction, such as those listed for use with “Category III Appliances”, and for operating temperatures less than 400°F (204°C). Vent pipe construction will be of UL 1738 approved non-corrosive material, such as stainless steel.

The pipe used does not look like 4" UL 1738 approved non-corrosive material, such as stainless steel.

Is this heater in a closed room and should it also have a combustion air supply vent as described on page 23?

Does this meet all clearances shown on page 22?

Does your heater have a five button or six button keypad?

Pentair_MasterTemp_Keypads.jpg


00fa6b86-b37f-438c-a34e-e5ea45adbc48-jpeg.394972
The plumber who did the whole house installed the pool equipment.
He had no business doing anything around a pool.
 
Your iChlor is incorrectly installed.

The iChlor Manual says - https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...tment/ichlor/ichlor-manual-522709-english.pdf

The iChlor 15 Power Supply must be interconnected with pool pump motor power source. This
ensures the iChlor SCG and pool pump will switch on and off together.


It should be connected to your IntelliFlo using SmartSense Flow Detection (Page 18):

SmartSense Flow Detection: Connecting the iChlor SCG to an IntelliFlo pump (stand-alone mode only)
SmartSense™ Flow Detection technology allows the connection of an IntelliFlo® Variable Speed Pump via RS-485
communication, to an iChlor® SCG power center while in stand-alone mode, by simply attaching the RS-485 cable
from the pump, to the RS-485 connector located in the iChlor Power Center (see iChlor Power Center Wiring Diagram at the bottom of the next page).

SmartSense is a safety feature that will continually monitor the status of the IntelliFlo pump before generating chlorine.

Note: Flow detection is only available when the iChlor is installed alongside a PC100 Power Center (P/N 520556).


The way your iCholor is installed it is at risk to explode if the flow switch fails and powers it while the pump is off. Get this fixed ASAP.

Here is one report - Explosion near the SWG

And another - Help,, my pipe exploded !!!

Your iChlor is incorrectly installed.

The iChlor Manual says - https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...tment/ichlor/ichlor-manual-522709-english.pdf

The iChlor 15 Power Supply must be interconnected with pool pump motor power source. This
ensures the iChlor SCG and pool pump will switch on and off together.


It should be connected to your IntelliFlo using SmartSense Flow Detection (Page 18):

SmartSense Flow Detection: Connecting the iChlor SCG to an IntelliFlo pump (stand-alone mode only)
SmartSense™ Flow Detection technology allows the connection of an IntelliFlo® Variable Speed Pump via RS-485
communication, to an iChlor® SCG power center while in stand-alone mode, by simply attaching the RS-485 cable
from the pump, to the RS-485 connector located in the iChlor Power Center (see iChlor Power Center Wiring Diagram at the bottom of the next page).

SmartSense is a safety feature that will continually monitor the status of the IntelliFlo pump before generating chlorine.

Note: Flow detection is only available when the iChlor is installed alongside a PC100 Power Center (P/N 520556).


The way your iCholor is installed it is at risk to explode if the flow switch fails and powers it while the pump is off. Get this fixed ASAP.

Here is one report - Explosion near the SWG

And another - Help,, my pipe exploded !!!
OH NO! I'm in trouble now,
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Your iChlor is incorrectly installed.

The iChlor Manual says - https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...tment/ichlor/ichlor-manual-522709-english.pdf

The iChlor 15 Power Supply must be interconnected with pool pump motor power source. This
ensures the iChlor SCG and pool pump will switch on and off together.


It should be connected to your IntelliFlo using SmartSense Flow Detection (Page 18):

SmartSense Flow Detection: Connecting the iChlor SCG to an IntelliFlo pump (stand-alone mode only)
SmartSense™ Flow Detection technology allows the connection of an IntelliFlo® Variable Speed Pump via RS-485
communication, to an iChlor® SCG power center while in stand-alone mode, by simply attaching the RS-485 cable
from the pump, to the RS-485 connector located in the iChlor Power Center (see iChlor Power Center Wiring Diagram at the bottom of the next page).

SmartSense is a safety feature that will continually monitor the status of the IntelliFlo pump before generating chlorine.

Note: Flow detection is only available when the iChlor is installed alongside a PC100 Power Center (P/N 520556).


The way your iCholor is installed it is at risk to explode if the flow switch fails and powers it while the pump is off. Get this fixed ASAP.

Here is one report - Explosion near the SWG

And another - Help,, my pipe exploded !!!
I'm calling the pool pros first thing in the morning. THANK YOU
 
The room is closed with a large open vented door.

I suspect that the vent in the door is inadequate.

The manual (page 23) says you need two 400 sq inch openings, one at floor level and one at the ceiling..

Otherwise you should install the Direct Air Intake Duct with 3-inch PVC Pipe.

What is interesting is that you have both inadequate gas supply and inadequate air intake which likely balanced each other out and let the heater run reasonable well, just at a lower BTU output.
 
Should I be turning the ichlor off along with the heater before the pump goes off fo r the night? I don't know how to turn the iChlor off. unless i flip the breaker or sent it down to 0
 
Should I be turning the ichlor off along with the heater before the pump goes off fo r the night? I don't know how to turn the iChlor off. unless i flip the breaker or sent it down to 0

The iChlor does not have an OFF switch.

What other devices are on the iChlor CB?

Setting the iChlor to 0 should prevent it from generating.

You will need to be diligent in turning it back on so you don;t end up with algae getting into the water.
 
At that time the pool professional, who did not install it, informed me that the plumber who did install it failed to follow instructions. The gas line is too small (1/2"? maybe 5/8"?) for a line that runs 100 feet to the tank.

Did this pool professional actually measure the gas pressures? I notice a regulator with a rather large diaphragm on the gas line, which indicates to me there is a higher pressure system upstream of that. Are you on natural gas or propane? I would verify the gas pressure at the inlet to the regulator (or have someone verify it), before I went down the path of the gas line being too small, and upsizing it. The chart that Allen posted do not indicate at what pressure those line sizes are required, but I'm guessing it is for a low pressure system.

The venting definitely needs to be corrected.

--Jeff
 
  • Like
Reactions: MITBeta
Did this pool professional actually measure the gas pressures? I notice a regulator with a rather large diaphragm on the gas line, which indicates to me there is a higher pressure system upstream of that. Are you on natural gas or propane? I would verify the gas pressure at the inlet to the regulator (or have someone verify it), before I went down the path of the gas line being too small, and upsizing it. The chart that Allen posted do not indicate at what pressure those line sizes are required, but I'm guessing it is for a low pressure system.

The venting definitely needs to be corrected.

--Jeff

I am assuming propane given her profile says US Virgin Islands.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Turbo1Ton

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.