Heater bypass

Splitpi

Active member
Apr 13, 2021
32
Dallas, TX
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Added a heater bypass last night. Used these 2" ball valves.

After the initial movement of the ball, it is very smooth. My only complaint is that the Orings can call out when placing the valve body. But with enough lube, they stick. Valves seem extremely robust. Now I can hunt down the small leak in the heater manifold. Maybe a liter of water every 2 - 3 days. It severely cracked 2 years ago in the Texas freeze and I fiberglass / epoxied it back together. With this years freeze a small crack opened. I have a new manifold, but would rather wait and use as backup.

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The problems with using three ball valves for a heater bypass are:

  • A misset valve can dead head your pump
  • You can trap water pressure in the heater which will engage the pressure switch and allow the heater to run while bypassed

You should install a flow switch to replace the pressure switch...



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Interesting. That is a much simpler design with fewer parts.

For a heater bypass all you need is a 3 way diverter valve on the inlet and a check valve on the outlet pipe. The check valve should prevent enough water pressure to engage the pressure switch and run the heater.

To be safe you can still install a Heater Flow Switch - Further Reading
 
Even with a check valve, there will be enough pressure to close the pressure switch.

Basically, if the pump is on, the pressure switch will close regardless of the valve types or configuration.

With a bypass, the only way to be safe is to add a flow switch.
 
@JamesW Do you have a reference to install a flow switch into a non-salt water Aqualink? Basically, trying to figure out the wiring into the control panel so that it shuts off the heater when no flow is detected.
 
The heater flow switch connects in series with the pressure switch in the heater, and does not make any connin the Aqualink.
 
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