Heater Bypass vs Versaflo for Jandy JXi 400

[Myburneraccount]

Is there any concern going with a heater bypass (Jandy Diverter, Check Valve, Actuator) vs the Versaflo system? I've read a few conflicting threads and was hoping to consolidate the answer into this thread for future readers. Heater Bypass - Further Reading here.

From the following thread, it appears that the Versaflo increases PSI vs a bypass.

Hi all,

I have a JXI400 natural gas heater which I installed a VersaFlo on. Currently with all flow going to the heater, it requires the pump to operate at 2700 RPM or the low flow warning will appear. Not sure if that's a little high? I know all pool configurations are different though.

The pressure on the filter gauge reads at 26PSI (filter needs a cleaning) when at 3450 RPM when I use the manual bypass valve to bypass the heater entirely.

When I use the manual bypass valve and direct all flow to the heater, and let the VersaFlo bypass the heater, the PSI raises 2PSI at the same speed.

So with the VersaFlo in use I'm at 28PSI. If I didn't have the VersaFlo and just used the manual bypass to stop flow to the heater I'd be 26 PSI when bypassing the heater.

I bought the VersaFlo so I wouldn't have to manually operate the bypass (I didn't want water pumping through the heater all day when I don't use the heater often) but I'm wondering if at the expense of 2 more PSI, was it worth it? Am I losing the claimed energy benefit by now introducing 2 more PSI? Am I better of just using a JVA to automate the manual bypass valve?

Thanks!

Additionally, my PB said that he's had issues with the Versaflo sticking. This post also mentions it as a possible problem.

The VersoFlo is a motorized bypass valve in the heater. It sounds like it failed to open or close.

However, this post says that Jandy doesn't recommend this configuration but no source documents were posted.

I believe Jandy doesn't recommend using a plumbed bypass for the JXi. My pool guy warned against it, and Jandy documentation I found confirm it. Maybe due to SWG?, but both said that stale water will decrease the lifespan of the element. The Versaflo (or built in one) isn't a traditional plumbed bypass, it still allows a % of water to circulate through the elements.

Seems like the bypass valve could also create unintended issues with the heater shutoff.

The heater has a pressure switch, not a flow switch. What you did in closing the valve was lock the pressure in the heater and it kept running. Don't do that.

If there are no issues with manual bypass valve, my preference is to use it over the versaflo since it seems more versatile and easier to service. Please let me know if I missed something.

 

[JamesW]

https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0333803.pdf

 

[Poolbreh]

Pros
-you don’t need additional valve port or an actuator and the versaflo come pre installed
-it extends warranty to 5 years instead of 1
-no additional programming needed, when there is a cfh the bypass closes.
Cons
-they have a piston that open and closes the bypass that seem to break often.

 

[Myburneraccount]

https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0333803.pdf

unfortunately the warranty only applies if you buy with Versaflo already installed. My equipment doesn’t have it so the additional warranty isn’t a factor. Still would like to know if there are any functional concerns using the bypass

 

[Myburneraccount]

Pros
-you don’t need additional valve port or an actuator and the versaflo come pre installed
-it extends warranty to 5 years instead of 1
-no additional programming needed, when there is a cfh the bypass closes.
Cons
-they have a piston that open and closes the bypass that seem to break often.

Are there any negatives to going with the diverter and actuator, assuming the extended warranty is not applicable and the programming gets squared away?